Bronze chainplates refit to hull opinions about toe rail and bend location

[Eastward ho 24]

Hello everyone. I've gotten my 3/8 silicon bronze plate to fabricate my new chain plates,which I'll be moving to the sides of the hull. I have a rubstrake(?)where my rub rail is, my hull extends out about an inch or so ,and the rubrail is on that. So I decided the 4" I have above that to the hull deck joint will be barely sufficient.....so I have 4" from rubstrake to hull deck joint and I have a 2" toe rail above that ( which my sail track is attached to, however I've never used the foreward foot of it.) so I have a few options I've been contemplatingwondering ...1 should notch out my toe rail and place the bend right where the hull deck joint keep the eye for the turnbuckle as low and as close to the bend as feasible? 2. Should I bring the chainplate right up over the toe rail and place the bend at the toe rail having the eye just over the toe rail? And if so should I even place a bolt hole to join plate to toe rail? I believe #1 to be structurally the best option but I don't really care to hack up my toe rail. Plus I'd have to lose some of my unused sailtrack. Option 2 seems to be an easier fitup but I'm not too keen on having my chainplates having all that "meat" above the deck hull joint. I attached a few pics, including a pic of another boat google images turned up, it is the style of chainplates I'll be fabricating. And a few pics i could find showing my toerail and a few more pics for anyone to ponder and I appreciate the input.

[neilpride]

Bottom picture is a CSY 44,with a wonderful set of new outboard chainplates, methink you need to catch some hull topside at the bottom or place the plate as far you can in the bottom so the plate can distribute the loads even and make the bend in the toerail hull to deck joint, scarf the teak toerail where the plate is going to be... Cheers.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Punctuation so that I can decrypt things would help.

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes, I'm gonna place the chainplate as low as I can, And make them as round as I can, to distibute as much load as possible. Are you saying I should notch out the toerail and place the bend at the hull deck joint location? rather then extend the plate up to the top of the toe rail, and then place the bend there?

[neilpride]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Yes, I'm gonna place the chainplate as low as I can, And make them as round as I can, to distibute as much load as possible. Are you saying I should notch out the toerail and place the bend at the hull deck joint location? rather then extend the plate up to the top of the toe rail, and then place the bend there?

Yes, otherwise you can make a stress point in the plate, depend of the angle to the mast tangs..

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes thanks makes sense, which just led me to the thought; one of the chainplates purpose is to spread the load, so anything that extends above the hull would be moot, it may be moot , but would you think it actually detracts from its purpose or weakens the chainplate, And that's where the unessary stress point comes into play. So I think we have it. I'm gonna have to get to the notching on the toe rail.....thanks

[Tailwheel]

For what it's worth, I'd make my chain plates long and thin, not short and round. Did similar job to with my Tayana 37, and I cut a slot in the rub rail for my CPs so they could extend below my rub rail, which is in a similar spot to yours. WRT to where to place the bend, I agree that the hull-deck joint should bear the side loads of the CPs, so I would advise you notch your toe rail to allow that. An alternative is to have a spacer, between the CPs and the hull, of sufficient thickness to allow you to place the bend at the appropriate place without having to notch the toe rail.

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes I had considered both ideas, but to be honest getting the radius of the hull bent into the plate was my reason I went the direction I did. Having a short mast and wide beam, I feel the small circle cp on the flat part of the hull will be enough. As of now they're just through bolted through the deck and to be honest I don't see how they haven't let go yet. Plus my boat was designed to have a small self tracker headsail, and now I have a 150% genny, so I feel it's due time to make some mods...I have a boomkin that seems to me pretty undersized and I'm in the preliminary thoughts on what size stainless tubing I should use. I'm thinking 1 1/4" od with a wall thickness of .12" 316l ss. Seems all I can find as comparisons are westsail 32 boomkins are using 1 5/8 od, with 1 1/4 Id. Here's a pic of my boomkin looks like2x3" teak(?)...well can't seem to upload.

[william bradley]

My father had one of the first Eastward Ho,'s built about 1956. She was made of wood and the chain plates (if I remember correctly) were attached to the frames and through the deck. I subsequently owned a Samuri 28 foot boat very much like the Eastward Ho. I was dismasted and put 1/4 by 2 inch straps on the outside of the hull, thru-bolted, and behind the rub rail. They are completely inspectable; no holes in the deck to leak.

[Eastward ho 24]

Pretty cool the samurai 28. On the samurai 28 sailboat data page has some good information on Walter Mcinnis and the eastward line of boats. The eh24 were originally wooden and I guess when they changed to fiberglass the chainplates were just Placed on the deck.

[Scout 30]

I believe the round chain plates are a Steven Dashew design.

[Orion Jim]

Just for illustrative purposes this bronze chainplate was installed on a Cape Dory 28. You may wish to do something similar.

[Eastward ho 24]

Thanks for the illustration..by the way is that darth Vader holding the chainplate ,haha jk.

[Tailwheel]

I'm with Orion Jim on this one.

By the way, cutting a slot in the rub rail is not that hard if you have a Fein Multimaster or similar.

See attached image of my beastie 10 months ago for inspiration...

Oh, and if you're paying attention, you'll notice that - against my advice to you - I introduced the bend in the CPs where they protrude above the top of the bulwark, not at the hull-deck joint. The bulwarks on the T37 are VERY thick and strong, so I took a calculated risk and decided that I'd have them bear the side loads, rather than go through the complication of finding a way of installing the CPs so they bend at the Hull-Deck joint.

Matt

[Eastward ho 24]

Yes I do have the multi master that was my intention. I'm just a little Leary of trying to put the radius of the hull into the bronze. Yours look very nice. Did you choose carriage bolts, or what kind of bolts did you use.