Core dependent halyard cover damage repair.

[nfbr]

I have a 2:1 250ft halyard in Samson MLX3 9/16"

The cover is damaged for about 30%, I think where the Spinlock ZR jammer was set for Reef 1, though it could have possible been from jam we had in the block when hoisting sucked in an 8mm line hard.

Either way, damaged at about the 1/3 length point.

I have whipped the damage, and now it jams in the ZR jammer when dropping

As it's 3yo, and worth $$$, I would prefer not to replace. At the very least I'll end for end it and see if I can keep that part in the mast.

I've been thinking though about how a 2:1 halyard works.

The first mast length from the mast crane never goes though the clutch / winch. It's either outside when lowered, or inside the mast when raised.

The second mast length + a bit does all the work with reef points and full hoist loads. Its the middle.

The last third mast length (a bit less) is only for hoisting

So in theory, a halyard could be 3 lines with end / end slices
Or partly stripped if it's core dependent
Or the last 3rd for hoisting could be much cheaper line and spliced
Or it could be raw dyneema with cover in the reef

Am I over thinking this? Has anyone done clever things to reduce the cost of $$$ halyards?

[ggray]

Yeah, BTDT.

I turned my Warpspeed halyard (2:1) end for end after an unintentional jibe stripped the cover. Pulled it back together and whipped it best I could and got more years out of it.

Later I went with a less expensive halyard (New England Rope with 3 letters I can't remember and too late to look it up. Still need to stitch it at the clutch.

[Benz]

Strange, I replied to this last night and the reply never posted...probably for got to hit "post." Anyway....
The solutions I can offer are three:
1: Strip the cover from the point where it's chafed, and use it with bare core where it doesn't engage the clutch or your hands.
2: replace the removed section with dybeena cover. Sounds like you'd need a lot of cover, which adds up $$$
3: Slide a fathom or so of dyneema cover over the rope to cover the spot that's worn, carefully burying the ends of the dyneema into the rope cover so the transition is smooth.
Each of these assumes that the rope will be end-for ended.
Since the MLX is a blend of Dyneema and Polypro core, I'd be cautious of leaving it bare, since Polypro doesn't survive sunshine as well as Dyneema does.