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Target9000 · 05-10-2012, 13:47

I'm about to completely replace the standing rigging on our Westsail 32 and thought I would share some current cost numbers for those of you that are curious. I know people are always asking "what does it cost...?"

Our boat is cutter rigged and has a single backstay. We have two bobstays and four boomkin stays. I will only be replacing the primary bobstay and one set of the boomkin stays since the extras are just there for backups.

Since we have a boomkin, the attachment point for it is a critical rig piece and I'll be replacing it along with the entire bowsprit. I'll also be replacing all of the turnbuckles on the boat.

Basically the only thing I plan on keeping/reusing are the sta-lok eyes on the ends of all the wire ropes and I'll also keep using the current mast tangs which appear to be in good condition.

So far its looking like this (roughly):

Wire:
$165 3/8" 1x19 wire (bobstay)
$1495 5/16" 1x19 wire (shrouds/stays/boomkin wires)
$135 1/4" 1x19 wire (whisker stays)

Terminators:
$300 30 x sta lok replacement cones

Turnbuckles:
$770 11 x 1/2" turnbuckles (for 5/16" wires)
$80 2 x 3/8" turnbuckles (whiskers stays)
$110 1 x 5/8" turnbuckle (bobstay)

Chainplates and tangs:
$275 1 x boomkin cross piece
$90 2 x boomkin tangs
$80 2 x whisker tangs
$720 6 x chainplates (external)
$80 1 x stemfitting

Bowsprit:
$1190 1 x SS box bowsprit replacement
$200 2 x SS sampson post replacements
$90 1 x SS bowsprit angled pad

I also got quotes on going to DynaDux synthetic rigging but found that it was a lot more money not because of the cost of the synthetic rig but rather the cost of replacing all of the terminators. They are expensive by themselves, but they also require all the mast tangs to be replaced to accommodate the extra width.

zeehag · 05-10-2012, 13:56

impressive.

virginia boy · 05-10-2012, 14:22

Any quotes from a rigger to do all the work? I need to replace much of my rigging also.

Target9000 · 05-10-2012, 14:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by virginia boy

Any quotes from a rigger to do all the work? I need to replace much of my rigging also.

I wish I could afford a rigger to do the work but alas, on our shoestring budget I have to learn these skills and do the work myself.

So far I've replaced the diesel and rewired the entire boat with only the help of my trusty first mate.

Sailmonkey · 05-10-2012, 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Target9000

I wish I could afford a rigger to do the work but alas, on our shoestring budget I have to learn these skills and do the work myself.

don't fret this stuff. The hardest part of the rigging is operating the tape measure.

Cheechako · 05-10-2012, 14:58

Wow, nearly $6k. Aint boat fixing fun! It would be interesting to find out of a rigger would be much more.... of course you're making a bowsprit etc right...?

zeehag · 05-10-2012, 15:03

dang--i knew the deal i was quoted as "family special" was exactly that---1500usd for my ericson completely rerigged. this formosa was 10,000usd for the previous owner. (no family deal on formosa, as i didnt get it done meself)

Target9000 · 05-10-2012, 15:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Wow, nearly $6k. Aint boat fixing fun! It would be interesting to find out of a rigger would be much more.... of course you're making a bowsprit etc right...?

Yeah. And then it would def be a wood sprit. Our current one had some metal plates screwed into it at the rollers. The wood around these screws has rotted and weakened the whole thing. The new sprit will be all SS which will end not suffer from rot and will hopefully last longer. The upshot of that too is that you can have SS sampson posts welded to it and then close up the holes in the deck where the current posts pass. Another potential deck leak being eliminated.

Also I don't like the wood posts. We were in a pretty good blow and the anchor rode bit into them severely. I'll like having something that rope won't chew through.

zeehag · 05-10-2012, 15:52

if your samson posts are being chipped by chain, thenye need to use a bridle snubber to prevent that from occurring. just ned a hook and a rope-i use floating poly braided rope for this job. makes a difference.
i am in process of covering mine--i have double samson posts hull stepped-and glassed-is to wrap them each individually with natural fiber 3 strand, 3/8 or so diam, and then paint with epoxy paint.

Cheechako · 05-10-2012, 15:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Target9000

Yeah. And then it would def be a wood sprit. Our current one had some metal plates screwed into it at the rollers. The wood around these screws has rotted and weakened the whole thing. The new sprit will be all SS which will end not suffer from rot and will hopefully last longer. The upshot of that too is that you can have SS sampson posts welded to it and then close up the holes in the deck where the current posts pass. Another potential deck leak being eliminated.

Also I don't like the wood posts. We were in a pretty good blow and the anchor rode bit into them severely. I'll like having something that rope won't chew through.

Sounds like a nice conversion... cant you eliminate some of the rigging, like whiskers, with a tubular "arc" shaped sprit roller assembly?

Target9000 · 05-10-2012, 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Sounds like a nice conversion... cant you eliminate some of the rigging, like whiskers, with a tubular "arc" shaped sprit roller assembly?

Yes, but we're already bleeding money.

Target9000 · 05-10-2012, 16:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeehag

if your samson posts are being chipped by chain, thenye need to use a bridle snubber to prevent that from occurring. just ned a hook and a rope-i use floating poly braided rope for this job. makes a difference.
i am in process of covering mine--i have double samson posts hull stepped-and glassed-is to wrap them each individually with natural fiber 3 strand, 3/8 or so diam, and then paint with epoxy paint.

At the time of the damage we did have a snubber but it was attached to the posts along with the main rode as a backup in case the snubber failed.

We got caught in a 40+ mph storm cell on a lee shore in 6-7ft chop. It was very sudden and very violent because of the very shallow water. The boat was bucking so hard I didn't trust the deck cleats or anything else to not pull out so I went straight to the posts. They held. Amazingly we even have metal "wrapped" around them to protect them but there was so much force on the boat at the time that it squeezed the lip of this metal and one wrap slipped onto the wooden post and chewed into it pretty good.

The next morning once it was calm I unwrapped the snubber and anchor lines and you could clearly see the indention of three strand in the wood. Amazing forces at work.

**roverhi** · 05-10-2012, 18:12

First, I'd go with 9/32" or 7 mm wire instead of 5/16". You don't need 5/16" wire for the forces exerted on a W32's rig. The boats have such an easy motion and the external chainplates provide way slack shroud angles and the relatively short mast just doesn't put much load on the rigging. Anything more than 9/32" wire is just added weight aloft which the W32 doesn't need.

The first time I Rigged our W32, did it in two days. Took two days only because It was the first time I'd used Norseman terminals or rigged a boat for that matter. Was cautious and wasted a lot of time with the first few fittings. After a few fittings, got the hang of it and a bit of confidence built up, was able to do a fitting in less than 15 minutes and made really quick progress. Still, there are a ton of fittings to do wih the boom kin, bowsprit and staysail. When we changed the mast, don't ask, redid the wires in a couple of hours though we didn't have the boomkin and bowsprit wires to mess with.

Attach the snubber to the bobstay fitting. The pull is much lower down so gives a better catenary and the boat will sail a lot less at anchor. Used to remove the snubber from the bobstay fitting on longer passages and reattach the tether when we got to our destination. Left it in place for one 500 mile passage and it came through with no problems. Used the same tether for 24/7/365 anchoring for a year and a half and it was still in good shape at the end of our cruise. Attached the tether when we anchored in Hiva Oa and removed it for the passage back to Hawaii when we sailed north the following year.

Work out an arrangement with your new bowsprit to rig a Solent/Asym. spinnaker forward of the headstay tang. A solent rig will make setting really large reaching sails a no pain proposition and way eaiser to set an Asym forward of the headstay than behind it. Doesn't have to be a lot of distance between the headstay tang and the Solent/Asym tang. You've already got a bowsprit and only need enough room to furl the sail if you go with a Solent Rig.

Your cost for the external chainplates seems a bit high. You can buy the stainless already cut to the proper lengths and drill the holes yourself if you have a drill press. Even if you don't have a drill press, you'd probably be way ahead money wise to buy a cheap one, drill them yourself and then send them out for electropolishing. I wouldn't do the square holes for carriage bolts like the original Westsail factory setup. The corners of the square holes are stress risers and a source of future cracking. After you are pau, you can sell the drill press. If you bought a used drill press, might even make money on it.

Boatguy30 · 05-10-2012, 18:43

I'm wondering why you think your turnbuckles need replacing, but your sta-locs are OK? I've seen more failed sta-loc than failed turnbuckles. Also, will clearly need to stick with the same size wire as you have not to reuse the sta locs despite other suggestions.

Also, I'd say your prices for chainplates are about right as the polishing will cost quite a bit as well as the material. I would look into bronze myself as no need to polish then. I also understand titanium has come down quite a bit. I think Brian Toss had an article about titanium chainplates recently.