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Old 24-02-2017, 18:48   #16
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Re: Cow Hitch vs Spliced Loop

Dockhead, here are two other options:
Use more turns of a thinner line--I use 1/8" Dyneema twine all over the place for lashings, knowing that the turn radius of that on the bail of a padeye is pretty good.

Use of those pre-made loops (Harken calls them "Loups" they're actually made by RigPro here in Rhode Island) which consist of a bunch of turns ( a selvagee ) of thinner line inside of a dyneema cover which protects if from chafe. You could simply double it through the padeye, then put the Antal ring onto both loops. A quick seizing around the throat so the ring can't come out and you're all set.

By all means paint it with Maxijacket as Uncivilized suggested--the black looks super sleek, and gives you extra UV protection.

Ben
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Old 25-02-2017, 02:49   #17
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Re: Cow Hitch vs Spliced Loop

Quote:
Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED View Post
For chafe & UV resistance, Maxi Jacket II or RP25 will help things a bit. And why not add a short section of chafe sleeve over the Dyneema where it makes sharp turns around fittings? Enough so that the Dyneema itself is covered where it would touch the metal. But not for 100% of the length of the cordage used. Though you'll probably need to stitch it in place, & perhaps paint it with Maxi Jacket II/RP25 as well, so that it stays put.
Thanks; that's a great idea. I'll give that a try.
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Old 26-02-2017, 14:40   #18
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Re: Cow Hitch vs Spliced Loop

Re: Sailcrazy comment above:
I use a similar technique but with one addition. I add a full twist in the bight of the double sheet after it is passed through the clew grommet. Then pass both ends through the combination.
I have found that unless this is done the knot slips along the sheet while the sail is under load, and needs to be repositioned from time to time.
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