Elegant Reefing Solutions

[nrx500]

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/cusco/Desktop/Reef%20Lines.jpg[/IMG]
file:///C:/Users/cusco/Desktop/Reef%20Winch.jpg


I'm having trouble uploading jpg attachments, so I'll make this simple.

Single line jiffy reefing is where one line brings down the tack and clew reefing lines simultaneously. It's fine for a small mainsail, not a big one! I have a Marshall 22 catboat with a 388 sq. ft. gaff rigged mainsail. I use a separate tack reef line and a separate clew reef line for each of two reefs. This lets me adjust draft in the foot of the mainsail by easing the clew reef line. I can depower upwind and power up on the reaches just by adjusting tension in the clew reef line.

The lines lead forward to two double blocks attached to a strap that goes around the mast. The strap has a double block on each end and slides around the mast following the boom. The four reefing lines lead to the double blocks on the strap and back to Spinlock cleats and self tailing winches on the cabin house at the front end of the cockpit. I ease my throat and peak halyards to drop the luff of the main. Crank in the tack reef and then the clew reef. Then rehoist the main halyards to tension the luff and clew. Everything is done from the safety of the cockpit.

[DefinitelyMe]

Thanks everyone for the great ideas and detailed responses. As most of you have guessed, yes, I am specifically interested in securing the tack (or forward) corner of the sail.

In my experience two-line reefing systems work really well for the first reef but beyond that foot tension and chafe become issues. It also means 4, if not 6 lines running aft and all the clutches, winches etc. associated with them. I've done a lot of miles with these systems and often ended up going to the mast anyway to secure the tack, mainly to avoid the line chafing against the folds of sail.

I'm tending towards a strop system or something similar. The question is whether to go for something where the sail is secured on one side vs. a line running from one side, through a cringle and then secured on the other side. The former is much faster, requires less line and can all be done form the windward side. The latter is slower and requires access to both sides but maintains the same tension on the reefing line irrespective of any change in tack or sheeting angle.

I race sometimes on a 40' boat where we have a single short length of dyneema that hangs from the mast. To reef we pass that line through the cringle, through a fairlead and then secure it in a cam cleat. It works really well but I'm concerned that a cam cleat might not be up to the task on a larger boat, even through it's only taking half of the load experienced by the halyard. What do you think?

Any feedback on the issue of maintaining constant tension on the tack reefing line from those of you who have everything secured on one side of the mast? Is it a non-issue?

[DefinitelyMe]

Originally Posted by JustMurph

So while we're talking about reefing, what would be the normal method for securing the leach, for reefs where you don't have a line running to the leech cringle?

For example, on mine and my mates cats there are three reefs, but only two sheaves for reefs in the back of the boom. On my boat I have reefs 2 and 3 hooked up and just never use 1. On my mates boat 1 and 2 are hooked up. How would you secure the leach for reef 3? Looks like whatever you do it's going to be hard to access and somewhat dangerous given the sea state you can expect if you're going to reef three.

Is the best approach to do what I've done and have the reefing lines running to 2 and 3 and manually secure the first reef if you really want it?

I think like most things it depends. There is no silver bullet, but I've never found it to be a major issue. We usually sail with our first and second reefs set up and a line running between the second and third reef points in a continuous loop to pull another line through if necessary end-to-end. If you have a loose-footed mainsail then you can use the #1 line for #3 too and just set it up while reef #2 is in. You can also always drop the mainsail and set it up that way.

Most of my cruising has been done on a 36' boat with good access to the boom. It's just above head height and we don't have lazy jacks or a sail bag or anything in the way. If we're going upwind then we can access the boom easily to put in the third reef. If we're going down wind then the main would already be down in heavy air as a small jib will pull the boat along nicely by itself. In that case it's even easier to set up the third reef to be ready to heave-to if things deteriorate. In reality though it's never been an issue. We have a pretty good idea before we set out on a passage whether we might need a third reef and if we think we might then we'll run the line before we leave port and have all three ready to go for the duration of the passage.

[stormalong]

I have floppy rings. Two stainless rings with an appropriate length of webbing between them going through the reefing cringle. Permanently attached and progressively longer for each of the three reefs. They are covered by velcro closed covers on both sides of the main when not in use.

Then I replaced the standard reefing horns with two Wichard four inch snap hooks welded to a bracket - looks like the horn it replaced but holds the floppy rings captive.

To reef drop the main enough to snap the floppy ring into the snap hook, tension the luff and then tend to the leech.

The leech reefing lines go through turning blocks on a track at the end of the boom , then to rope clutches set into the base of the mast, through blocks to a deck mounted winch. Take up on the leech, set the clutch and the reef if done.

At my leisure I can thread lines through the reefing eyes to take up the slack. I do not like having loose lines hanging from the reefing eyes like many sails have.

The advantages of this method it that everything except the winch handle is in place and ready to go. The floppy rings are the right length for each reef and they are locked into the reefing horn-snap hook so they don't have to be held in place while tensioning the halyard. The process is divided into two easy to manage steps.

The downside is that I have to go to the mast to do this and it can get quite wet on my boat. But there is less friction than running the lines aft and I save having many feet of extra line laying around

[Happ]

Originally Posted by DefinitelyMe

Thanks everyone for the great ideas and detailed responses. As most of you have guessed, yes, I am specifically interested in securing the tack (or forward) corner of the sail.

In my experience two-line reefing systems work really well for the first reef but beyond that foot tension and chafe become issues. It also means 4, if not 6 lines running aft and all the clutches, winches etc. associated with them. I've done a lot of miles with these systems and often ended up going to the mast anyway to secure the tack, mainly to avoid the line chafing against the folds of sail.

I'm tending towards a strop system or something similar. The question is whether to go for something where the sail is secured on one side vs. a line running from one side, through a cringle and then secured on the other side. The former is much faster, requires less line and can all be done form the windward side. The latter is slower and requires access to both sides but maintains the same tension on the reefing line irrespective of any change in tack or sheeting angle.

I race sometimes on a 40' boat where we have a single short length of dyneema that hangs from the mast. To reef we pass that line through the cringle, through a fairlead and then secure it in a cam cleat. It works really well but I'm concerned that a cam cleat might not be up to the task on a larger boat, even through it's only taking half of the load experienced by the halyard. What do you think?

Any feedback on the issue of maintaining constant tension on the tack reefing line from those of you who have everything secured on one side of the mast? Is it a non-issue?

Instead of using the traditional Cringle try Frictionless Rings. Yes you will need 2 cabin house winches. Most boats already have at least one. If you really only want the reefing lines on one side instead of crinkles use a block sewn to the sail. Use slides on the main like Harken Batt Cars. You have to keep tension on the halyard to keep the sail from dropping.

On a dark rainy night do you really want to go up forward on deck to reef? I have and don’t ever want to do it again now that there are tried and proven options. Look at IMOCA 60’s. They are sailed non stop, singlehanded around the world with no issues. They all use this technology because it works.