Furling line routing, lashing rings

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Sos

There's some good options there.

Did you get to check for corrosion under your existing lashings yet?

And break off my duration test?! No way!

I have other lashings around stainless, will have a look when I remember

[Ryban]

Did our first test yesterday with the new furler and routing the line outside of the stantions. Our furler is a reef-rite, which has a locking pawl that needs to be disengaged to unfurl the sail, which requires a steel cable to be run in parallel back to the cockpit. So I drilled a small hole in the bottom of each of the low-friction rings to guide this wire.

This worked as a proof of concept and for testing, but I'm still going to pursue a more permanent solution, likely fabricating something myself.

[s/v Jedi]

Hose clamps?! Really?!

Also: you can run the steel wire through the LFR together with the furling line. And I think you can replace the steel rope with Dyneema.

[Ryban]

Oh don't worry. The hose clamps are very temporary. We just needed to get the boat out on the water to test the configuration. I already have a permanent solution in the works.

Switching the pawl line to dyneema might be a good idea. Certainly more friendly than a tiny steel wire.

[Ryban]

Here's my latest dumb idea. I was going to fabricate something myself, but took the good advice earlier in this thread and found some suitably sized aluminum bar clamps (designed for people to mount LED bar lights to their trucks). They're cheap, so it was at least worth trying.

I drilled two holes to secure a lashing. The other nice thing is they have rubber boots that will prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, and are toothed that will allow water through, but I wonder how long those would last in the tropics.

(Note the extra lashing line in the photo is just temporarily tied off to the stanchion).

I did have to cut off a bracket, although I think I can find a version that doesn't have this bracket. But in the process of doing so, I noticed pits in the aluminum, so I believe these are poorly casted aluminum parts, which doesn't surprise me for the price I paid.Attachment 279126

[s/v Jedi]

You want more metal, don’t you? Is this just to isolate metals? Did you check electrical conductivity? The LFR’s are hard anodized and this is a very good insulator and you don’t need anything extra.

Less is better. But the lashing looks right. You see how tight it gets with those perpendicular wraps at the end?

[Nekton73]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I bet you thought that was it no, of course I had to try my massive 100mm rings that I’m gonna use for my runners.

This is a joke because they are way too heavy and the inside opening is smaller than the climbing ring.

You can buy 316 stainless steel rings on Amazon too. When there is only a small angle on the line running through then that would work too.

Jedi, what brand is that large (100mm?) ring? In one of your posts above that you have an Antal ring lashed above a climbing ring, and in this one the brand appears to be PTNHZ. I googled it but couldn't find anything. I'm interested because it gives WLL and BS, something I've never seen on a LFR before.


Thanks

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Nekton73

Jedi, what brand is that large (100mm?) ring? In one of your posts above that you have an Antal ring lashed above a climbing ring, and in this one the brand appears to be PTNHZ. I googled it but couldn't find anything. I'm interested because it gives WLL and BS, something I've never seen on a LFR before.

Thanks

They are recovery rings, normally used with a winch for 4x4 cars. Iplan to test these with the tails of my running backstays.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BP21MS1B