Genoa track vs. Floating system?

[andreas.mehlin]

I'm heading back to Mexico in 10 days to continue finishing my trimaran. Exterior is more or less all finished (well to 95%). No hardware has been installed back again....so it gives me some alternatives...

For instance...Genoa tracks

One way would be to replace these with a floating system by adding low frictions rings and control lines. So, why? Looks more sleek, less hole to drill thru the plydeck.

Any experience?

[Dockhead]

I use a system like this for my blade jib, because the existing tracks don't go far enough forward for the blade.


I am very pleased with it. You can find details in the archives if you do a search.


It is critically important to anchor it well. The loads can be huge.



If you want the full benefit from the system, you will need to have two control lines, which is a bit of complexity, but it's worth it, as then you can move the clew inboard and outboard besides changing the sheet lead angle.


Probably you could create a single control line which would tweak either sheet inboard, which might reduce the complexity a bit. But you would have to lead a line all the way across the foredeck -- don't know if that would work on a multihull.



A floating sheet lead system is also far cheaper than adding a track.

[Matt Johnson]

The beam width of a tri makes 3D sheeting an absolutely amazing option vs a set track location. Not only can you then control fore and aft position, you can also sheet inboard and outboard without having to move the sheet from one track car/block to another.

Have you had the sails made yet? Do you have the designers deck plans? Obviously those will impact the mounting position, but remember to get the 3d mounting points further forward from the designed position to allow full articulation of the floating ring. A shock cord ran to the diamond stay spreader will keep the lazy sheet's ring from banging on the deck.

Matt

[Snowpetrel]

I think it is well worth trying the foating tack system.

If you have roller furling it needs to be able to adjust low enough for a well reefed sail. In which case it will need some sort of bungy to hold it up off the deck, and a reasonably high clew, rather than a deck sweeper.

I like the setup with inhaulers and outhaulers. Get the main lead point in about the right spot for windward work in a low, fast and powerful set, then add in haulers to crank the lead inboard for a high pointing setup for flat water. This way only one line is heavily loaded. And the boat can be sailed well without too many extra lines if need be.

[thinwater]

For certain, set the leads as far inboard as you will ever need them. Then just use a barberhauler to pull outwards, which is the more important adjustment on a multihull. The barberhauler probably leads to the ama end of the front cross beam. In that way, it pulls forward and down.


As you can see, they haul WAY out (I never actually go to the end).
The track is far enough in I would never in-haul.



Sounds like 2 lines on each; one for forward, and one for out and forward.

This will only work well with LFRs if the sheets are Dyneema; the friction with polyester is too great.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by thinwater

. . . This will only work well with LFRs if the sheets are Dyneema; the friction with polyester is too great.

For whatever it's worth, my sheets are 16mm racing double braid dyneema, which means they have polyester covers. They work fine with the LFR's. You don't move a lot of length of sheet through the rings when they are under load.


But it's worth having dyneema sheets for other reasons, at least if you're using laminate sails which respond to fine adjustments. Another good reason is you can usually downsize by one size, which makes the sheets much easier to handle, more flexible, much lighter. Only disadvantage is cost, and you can't use bowlines to attach to the clew -- you need to splice loops in the ends.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

For whatever it's worth, my sheets are 16mm racing double braid dyneema, which means they have polyester covers. They work fine with the LFR's. You don't move a lot of length of sheet through the rings when they are under load.

But it's worth having dyneema sheets for other reasons, at least if you're using laminate sails which respond to fine adjustments. Another good reason is you can usually downsize by one size, which makes the sheets much easier to handle, more flexible, much lighter. Only disadvantage is cost, and you can't use bowlines to attach to the clew -- you need to splice loops in the ends.

You are right.



In truth, my sheets have polyester covers too. Dyneema would work better. The reason I suggested Dyneema is that I'm sure there are certain combinations that would be problematic. It all depends on the angles. So I would use Dyneema if I were starting from scratch, and when my current sheets go I will make the change.

[Matt Johnson]

For ease of setting it up and low cost, I ended up just using dyneema for the part that runs through the rings and tie double braid polyester line to the part that I grab with my hands.

Mine is a 2:1 set-up. The dyneema goes from the deck mount, through the low friction ring, back to the mount position where another ring sends it aft a few feet to a loop spliced in the dyneema. I then just tie a section of 3/8" rope to the loop in the dyneema which leads back to a cleat in the cockpit.

It's not elegant, but I have a couple of 600' reels of single braid Amsteel on board and hate doing a double braid to dyneema splice. Also, I'm a cutter rig on a 37' boat, so sail area and sheet loads are way less than Dockheads 54'.

Matt

[andreas.mehlin]

At the moment I only have a block faaar back that leads the genoa dhert up to my winch. No more lead than that. And of course I cant continue for much longer like that….always sailing with twist and super flat foot now

I’m trying to find a solution with what I have onboard at the moment (in mexiko and low on cash)

An idea that hit me today. What if I put two separate tackles going from their own LFR up to one bigger. The two smaller LFR sits with soft shackle to pad eyes. Having the pad eyes one further up snd the other one about 6-7ft aft. The bigger LFR connects to a snap scackle that clips on to the sheet. More or less position em how the tracks was positioned before.

Would this work? Tension the two tackles separately to get it to the right spot

My clew sits about 2ft from deck (trimaran)