Halyard slipping

[silversailor]

I have Spinlock clutches through which my main halyard runs. It's spectra cored and in use for about 5 seasons. This year it started slipping. Is the Spinlock clutch adjustable? Should I add a cover to a 2' section of my main halyard so the clutch grips better? Other suggestions?


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[CAELESTIS]

I had that problem.

If you raise the sail with the clutch closed, you will polish the jaws in the clutch. You may need replacement jaws. Hoist with the clutch open (or close when you are nearly at full hoist). Check the cover of the halyard and make sure it did not get any wax or other chemicals on it.

I had to go to a 2:1 halyard with the Spinlock XX.

[El Pinguino]

Mine....on a variety of lines, spin halyard, reefing pennants, spin pole downhauls.... have started slipping on a random basis... have swapped lines around for test purposes and is clutch related not rope related.

Fair bit of research suggests the simplest fix is just to push down with my thumb on the actual cam as I close the clutch to help it get a better grip.

[UNCIVILIZED]

The two most common problems which cause this are:
- An undersized line with regard to the size range of the clutch.
- Worn jaws (internals).

You want the line to be at, or very close to the maximum size that the clutch will handle. As if it isn't, then the clutch's holding power is greatly diminished. Regardless of what the quoted holding power for the clutch may be. So either bulking up the line is in order, or switch to a smaller set of inserts. And of course, if the clutch is worn, it's time to switch out it's innards anyway.

The other obvious "fix" is to cleat the line on a standard horn cleat, after you're done tensioning it. Which will also increase the line's lifespan, ditto with the clutch. And a 2nd option is to lock it into a winch's self tailing jaws.

[Terra Nova]

UN--good post.

[Sailmonkey]

I've had mixed results with the addition of an extra jacket on the line. Done well, it did increase the line size in the clutch and increased the holding power(use a fuzzyish jacket for best grip), however done poorly it lasted a short time before it caused jamming at both the mast head and upon entering the clutch. I've also experienced a well done cover doing no good at all, the clutch was already polished.


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[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I've had mixed results with the addition of an extra jacket on the line. Done well, it did increase the line size in the clutch and increased the holding power(use a fuzzyish jacket for best grip), however done poorly it lasted a short time before it caused jamming at both the mast head and upon entering the clutch. I've also experienced a well done cover doing no good at all, the clutch was already polished.


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Thanks Terra Nova.

Sailmonkey, by polished, do you mean that the "teeth" of the clutch had already been resharpened? As that tends to be a last resort to fix a clutch's internals, instead of replacing them. Last resort as it's hard on lines. Which is why I didn't mention it before.

There may be another option for bulking up your line. If you're using a halyard which has a stripped cover, you can undo the taper splice which holds the jacket in place, & insert a bulking piece underneath of the lines cover, or even into the center of the line's Dyneema or Vectran core. And then redo the taper splice of the line's cover. Making sure to lock stitch all of the various splice ends & pieces in place.
Plus there's the option to "glue" the bulking piece in place, ditto on the line's cover, using RP25 or similar.

RP25, Maxi Jacket/Maxi Jacket II, & other similar coatings also aid in adding life to the line in high wear areas. As they're akin to the coatings which come on factory new ropes when you purchase them. The same stuff which makes them shiny & slippery. Like Samson Ropes Samthane coating.

Racing boats use such agents on the cores of stripped halyards to extend their life without adding weight. As well as to bond lines & their jackets together to enhance a ropes performance. And as a perk, such compounds prevent the lines from fuzzing up, & being prone to snagging. So you might give them a try. That, & take the bulked up line which is giving you trouble to a rigger for evaluation & diagnosis.

[Sailmonkey]

UC, by polished I mean the teeth are already smooth and rounded, sort of like they've aged.

I've sharpened teeth before and it was disastrous.

I've also had good luck on certain line types with lewmar clutches (dominos) other lines were, IMHO completely incompatible with that type of clutch.

I've also not yet tried a soft clutch, the op may be able to add something like that to their existing clutch.


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[Jacana]

Time to replace the worn base and top clutch and it will be as good as new again.Use mine daily and lasted 10 years before needing replacement .

[StuM]

An alternative that a rigger showed me today - if you need to replace the clutch.

CONSTRICTOR | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

Anyone have any experience with them?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by StuM

An alternative that a rigger showed me today - if you need to replace the clutch.

CONSTRICTOR | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

Anyone have any experience with them?

That's what I was talking about, just couldn't remember the name......


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[barnakiel]

Such worn jaws - are they plastic?

Our clutches seem to be all metal. I nearly always use them locked can't see any jaw polishing.

?

b.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by StuM

An alternative that a rigger showed me today - if you need to replace the clutch.

CONSTRICTOR | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

Anyone have any experience with them?

They work very well, but you have to get used to them. They finger traps are longer than normal clutches so installation can be an issue. They also seem to work best with uncovered dyneema lines.

Everyone I know that has them is happy with them.

[silversailor]

Just did a little research on my Spinlock clutch. There's a rebuild kit that will replace the "grippy" parts that looks like it will solve my problem. After 11 seasons use it's not surprising that the "teeth" have gotten a little smoother.


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[UNCIVILIZED]

Constrictors tend to wear lines less, & do grip better. But they take more user input when operating them, even to grind in & lock a bit more halyard.

I say, lock the line into the winch's self tailer, or better yet, tie it off to a horn cleat once you're done adjusting it. The line won't move, & it'll last a heck of a lot longer, due to greatly reduced wear in the clutch area. Such is my preference even when I'm not the one paying for the lines, sails, or hardware.