Halyards, pulley blocks, deck organisers etc.

[coopec43]

I am bringing the halyards back to the center cockpit. I have the halyard winches (Arco 44s) and Hutton 55s sheet winches, Spinlock (treble) rope clutches, jib furler and all the turnbuckles.

No doubt the riggers will happily supply all the pulley blocks, deck organizers etc but they will want an arm and a leg. I would like to check prices of online suppliers but I'm not too sure what to look for.

As far as pulley blocks are concerned should they be SS, galvanized(?) or something like Marelon/composite? I presume they must have bearings?

I think the jib sheets are 10mm. The pulleys will be attached to the f/g toe-rail. As a guide what diameter would I need?

The yacht is a Roberts 43ft, center cockpit ketch.

[Rucksta]

The Harken web site has a load calculator based on sail area and wind speed.
https://www.harken.com/en///calculat...-load-by-boat/

Work out your loads and find a block that will handle it.

Then shop around and find a block with an equivalent load capacity in your price range.

For halyard mast base blocks there is little side loading but large constant linear load - rollers work well in this application.
Balls will be more prone to distortion and work best for intermittent loads.

If there are off axis loads e.g. turning block, rollers on the turning axis with balls to to carry the side loads work best.

Blocks made of composite materials work well with significant weight savings over metal construction.
I've yet to experience the cheeks failing.
Sheaves, bearings and attachment points seem to be the weak spots.

Have a look at https://www.garhauermarine.com/.

If your not into ultimate performance and weight savings they produce well made reasonably priced gear (compared to Harken)

If the rigger is to be invited to supply components have a good idea of what you can purchase the product for and compare to the quoted price.

Often the rigger will come in at only slightly more than your best price + freight.

If there are delays in supply chain it's on the whoever does the purchasing to wear the project cost.

One important feature I look for is can I disassemble the unit to replace sheaves and bearings or do i throw it away when its worn.

[Quebramar]

Bottom of the mast and other fixed loads: why not got for low-friction rings? Simple, light and no maintenance

[Benz]

The diameter is determined by line size: you need a sheave that the line fits in well. What bend radius the block puts on the line hardly matters. What matters more is how nice the sheave turns.
Bearings are not absolutely necessary; I have 1/2" Ronstan blocks with acetal sheaves that turn on an axle, and they've been fine for twelve years.
I'd stay away from blocks with galvanized sheaves--let the square riggers keep those. Even a boat like yours can benefit from keeping weight down aloft.
My jib leads are simply rings spliced to a loop. I have brass rings, but the alloy Low Friction Rings are perfect for this. My staysail is on LFRs as well, and I have no difficulty sheeting in. If you can use those for leads, you'll save a bundle.

[Chotu]

Coop, I wish I had the answer, but I’m learning this part too.

However, the fact that you’re asking this question tells me you’re reaching quite a milestone and the end is in sight.

Congratulations!!!!

[Rucksta]

Originally Posted by Quebramar

Bottom of the mast and other fixed loads: why not got for low-friction rings? Simple, light and no maintenance

Low friction rings are fantastic

Best use is for small deflections (90 degrees or less) and mostly static loads where high line speeds are not encountered.

OK (1.5 out of 3) for a furling genoa halyard where the sail goes up and stays up.
Not so good for a spinnaker (0.5 out of 3) or main sheet halyard where the friction generated heat can degrade the line.

Dyneema core runs better than double braid.

LFRs do not offer the smooth release of a sheave and the characteristics change with lead in & exit angles variations.

Not saying don't use them just pick the application.

[Near2KR]

As a source of supply, you may want to check out Viadana. The us address is viadanausa.com. High quality hardware made in Italy. Not as finely finished as Harken but less expensive. At least for us.

[billdre]

Have a look at https://www.garhauermarine.com/.

If your not into ultimate performance and weight savings they produce well made reasonably priced gear (compared to Harken)

+1
Plus the people at garhauer are great for answering questions and being helpful. Their products are bullet proof.

[Djarraluda]

That is quite a large boat to have only 10mm jib sheets, or did you mean halyards? Simply for comfort on the hands I would expect 12 or 14mm sheets. You also say the blocks will be bolted to the toe rail, so assume this is the turning blocks for final sheet lead to the winches. You may find it best to make some angle brackets and use flat cheek blocks there so they point the tail directly where you want it, no side loading then involved.
The bigger the diameter of block chosen for each location, the less percentage of design load it will see so generally this translates to longer life and less friction so there is a benefit in oversizing there but in all cases, consider the need to run an eye (sewn eye or similar) on the end of the line for halyards etc when pulling the new one through, so a 12mm block will not take a 12mm line in that case. I know it is basic but it is easy to forget.
Roger

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Quebramar

Bottom of the mast and other fixed loads: why not got for low-friction rings? Simple, light and no maintenance

Actually there's a guide as there no need for friction rings at the mast. The internal halyards are brought out the bottom of the mast and there are X6 pulleys. There are no bearings and I'll check their diameter as a guide. Thanks

[coopec43]

This is my mast step showing the halyard pulleys. If I use that as a guide then I can't go wrong?

[chrisr]

respectfully : if you have to ask questions like this then you are best advised to pay a professional rigger to do it for you

cheers,

[mstr_cmdr]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

Low friction rings are fantastic

Best use is for small deflections (90 degrees or less) and mostly static loads where high line speeds are not encountered.

OK (1.5 out of 3) for a furling genoa halyard where the sail goes up and stays up.
Not so good for a spinnaker (0.5 out of 3) or main sheet halyard where the friction generated heat can degrade the line.

Dyneema core runs better than double braid.

LFRs do not offer the smooth release of a sheave and the characteristics change with lead in & exit angles variations.

Not saying don't use them just pick the application.

Something similar to the attached pictures?
No blocks; no moving parts; no “heavy metal” anywhere - simply works!

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by chrisr

respectfully : if you have to ask questions like this then you are best advised to pay a professional rigger to do it for you

cheers,

AND why do you think I won't get a professional rigger? , I've already spoken to two rigging organizations who have indicated their interest.

(Did you read my first post by any chance?)

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Quebramar

Bottom of the mast and other fixed loads: why not got for low-friction rings? Simple, light and no maintenance

I've got to go from the fore cabin (where the mast is mounted) to a higher main cabin. Are these the rings you are referring to? (I think they'd be ideal)