hi wind and screecher unfurl

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by guyrj33

You could use a block and downhaul to mount the tack, that would allow you to attach the tack while firmly on deck.

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Is it furled on a foil? or just a torsion rope?

If the latter, you don't keep it in the long configuration, you fold and flop to make it fit in a bag.

the tack is easy, a single part or 2:1 tack line (low to no stretch) to allow you to tack on while on the nets.

That's exactly what I'm about to do so we don't have to lean right out there to mount or dismount the furler. Managing the furled sail on the tramp is no issue.

Though we have a tripod prodder that makes a pretty good spot to relax in the right weather.



For the OP, why wouldn't you remove it 30+ knots? Our reefing guide recommends removing it when over 20 AWS, due to windage. And the risk of it coming open from the middle or top (to those you don't have loose-luff furled sails, those with lightweight laminate material are prone to getting blown open if the wrap isn't super tight and is not affected by the tightness of the furling line).

[Bean Counter]

You could have a sunbrella tube cover made up with zip as long as the luff. You would need a second halyard or string and pulley arrangement. As you haul and zip you would have a complete cover, this would give added weather protection and eliminate any possibility of sail blowing out. When it comes time to unfurl pull down the cover and unzip it. Might be pricey

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by fxykty

That's exactly what I'm about to do so we don't have to lean right out there to mount or dismount the furler. Managing the furled sail on the tramp is no issue.

Yes, running a line out to the tip of the prod is pretty much the norm on most of the racing boats which use similar sails. Everything from (true/racing) Code 0's to spinnakers on furlers. Just look at any of the big racing boats out there which have fixed prods. Though plenty of J boats, & other sport boats use similar setups. Fixed prod, or retractable.

And on many such configurations a multi part purchase is used (block & tackle) so that it's easy to add tension to the sail & furling arangement at the tack. With the fail of the adjustment line for the purchase being led back down the deck to a winch. Either on/near the foredeck, or in the cockpit. And it's easy enough to mount a clutch/stopper on the foredeck, right behind the pole. So that when you pull the furler's tack back out to the end with the line, it's locked in position. Sometimes the clutch is even mounted on top of the prod.

One key thing about any such setup is to use a line which is the maximum diameter which the clutch will handle, so that the clutch then generates the max holding power that it's rated for.

To do this, sometimes you can fatten up an existing ine by either slipping a second, thinner, piece of core into the center of the line's original core. Or by adding some extra cover to the ine where it goes through the clutch. And with either method, it' s often wise to lock stitch the extra section of cover or core in place. Along with using Spinlock's RP25 to glue it in place. Which, this treatment also adds extra abrasion protection to the line. Maxi Jacket line coating is another option too, though it doesn't do so much to bond things together, but offers better abrasion protection.
Attachment 153629

For the OP, why wouldn't you remove it 30+ knots? Our reefing guide recommends removing it when over 20 AWS, due to windage. And the risk of it coming open from the middle or top (to those you don't have loose-luff furled sails, those with lightweight laminate material are prone to getting blown open if the wrap isn't super tight and is not affected by the tightness of the furling line).

I'm wondering the above myself. As by the time the wind gets up to those levels, it's time to start reducing windage on the boat, & thinking about heavy weather canvas (sails) options.

[admiralslater]

I have not run into the problem yet. But when I leave for an extended time I lower and lash to the net. You can put an adhesive scratch guard on the pole to protect it from the bottom unit. I do have uv protection

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by admiralslater

I have not run into the problem yet. But when I leave for an extended time I lower and lash to the net. You can put an adhesive scratch guard on the pole to protect it from the bottom unit. I do have uv protection

Yup, lowered to the tramp and lashed on like this. This is the day after the previous photo and breeze building. One thing we should have done was replace the halyard to the end of the prodder (there's a story behind this comment that I'll put in the confessions thread if I can man up to it).

[Kestrahl]

This is a fairly common problem. I've also seen this happen to genoas on regular furlers in extreme weather when they weren't furled tight enough.

Basically the tighter you can furl the sail the less likely its going to happen. The luff rope or torsion rope has a huge affect on how tightly you can furl it. We use a torsion rope now which is pretty good and gives a tight enough furl. Some sailmakers still just use a polyester rope.........
The shape of the sail also has an affect, a new sail will furl nicer than a bagged out old sail... Why would you put a heavy Sunbrella UV cover on a light laminated screecher. This maybe a factor.

[thinwater]

Spiral a spare halyard around it in the reverse direction. Good for genoas in storms when you don't feel like lowering them. No way it can open, easily done from the deck in a minute.

[kps0927]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Spiral a spare halyard around it in the reverse direction. Good for genoas in storms when you don't feel like lowering them. No way it can open, easily done from the deck in a minute.

I will give that a try. I do have a spinnaker halyard that is available. Per previous comment, the Sunbrella does add some weight to the sail and due to its stiffness can lead to the sail not furling as tight as it did prior.

Trying to understand the tack idea. My furler is attached to sprit at shackle. Would a tack line run from tramps down sprit through shackle to furler and back so that it can be pulled either back to tramp or forward towards shackle? If that is the case the furler would be not fixed to the sprit but free flying.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by kps0927

I will give that a try. I do have a spinnaker halyard that is available. Per previous comment, the Sunbrella does add some weight to the sail and due to its stiffness can lead to the sail not furling as tight as it did prior.

Trying to understand the tack idea. My furler is attached to sprit at shackle. Would a tack line run from tramps down sprit through shackle to furler and back so that it can be pulled either back to tramp or forward towards shackle? If that is the case the furler would be not fixed to the sprit but free flying.

One way to not have to go out to the end of the sprit, is to run a line through the outboard end of the pole, & knot it, so that that end of it's fixed in place. From there the line leads through a block or the shackle on the bottom of your furler (drum), then through a block near the tip of the pole, & back to the foredeck. Where you'd probably just run through a clutch there.

This will let you pull the tack of the sail (& lower furler drum/hardware) out to the end of the prod. Then when it's time to get rid of the sail. Furl it as normal, & lower it to the deck. Release the clutch on the tackline, & pull the tack & the furler drum aft using the rolled up body of the sail. Either that, or pull it aft using the furling line itself. Such is how it's quite commonly done on sprit boats, mono & multi.

BTW, there are lighter, & more flexible UV protection options than Sunbrella. Albeit they probably won't last as long, but they will allow you to have better sail shape overall. And since they're more flexible, might actually result in a tighter, easier to attain, furl.
I can't recall product names at the moment, but JPA Cate has mentioned them more than a few times. And I'm sure that such options would also turn up in a search.

PS: Obviously there are many other ways of attaching a line to the pole's outer end. Such as an eye spliced into it's end, which is just big enough for the pole. And that's held in place via say a seizing. Or a small eye spliced into said line's end, where it's held onto the pole end via a multi-strand Turk's Head around the pole's circumference.

[kps0927]

Thanks for the response. I do have a block on the end of the sprit with a line that goes to the crossbeam (starboard of sprit) through a standup block and back to a clutch on the crossbeam (port of sprit).

I am assuming I can use that line. I would need another line so that i can bring it back to the tramps when not in use.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by kps0927

Thanks for the response. I do have a block on the end of the sprit with a line that goes to the crossbeam (starboard of sprit) through a standup block and back to a clutch on the crossbeam (port of sprit).

I am assuming I can use that line. I would need another line so that i can bring it back to the tramps when not in use.

Seems we're operating on fully differenty wavelengths in terms of comms & hardware descriptions. So a good percentage of what I stated may be in need of redacting, & reformulating. As I was thinking that the sail was on a continuous line Code 0/Spinnaker type furler, such as these from Facnor Endless line gennaker & code zero furlers - Facnor

I'd need to see a few more pics of your setup to figure out if it's possible to tune things for easier use, & if so, how. Preferably after a few hours of sleep.
One thing though, er, a question. It looks as if you can articulate your prod given the proper hardware to support it, while changing it's angle with respect to the boat's centerline, non?

[barnakiel]

Screecher style sails furled on soft furlers are best dropped in high winds. This is why someone invented soft furlers.

Cheers,
b.

[SailFastTri]

The problem is the stubborn OP. Logical solution is to drop it, fold it in approximate 6-10 foot of space on deck, and lash it on deck with sail ties or bungee cord. You can buy sausage bags from any sailmaker to protect it from the elements.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by kps0927

... I would need another line so that i can bring it back to the tramps when not in use.

No need for another line - you just lower the furled sail onto your tramp, then slack the existing tack line and pull the tack onto the tramp by pulling on the furled sail. Easy, peasy.

In my case, after that I'll detach the tack of the sail from the furler and attach the halyard to it. Then I'll pull the furler back out to the end of the prodder, cleat the tack line, then tension the halyard. Prodder nicely supported without having to crawl out there. Too bad the PO didn't think of it. Sigh.

[kps0927]

Thanks for the response. the white and blue fleck line in the pic is on a clutch to port and goes through the standup block shown before heading to starboard and tying to the crossbeam (just to hold the line). The Amsteel green line is just to hold tension on the sprit when there is no sail on it. I have a conventional furling drum not a continuous line furler. There is a nylon/braided line in the luff not a non torsional line. Head of sail attaches to swivel on halyard.
From responses, I am assuming the blue fleck line can be used as a tack line through the block and under the attach point of the drum, but this would leave the bottom of the drum not hard attached to the sprit but to the line. then when I want to bring it to the tramps I would drop halyard a bit and open clutch so I can pull the furler towards the tramps.