Hood Stoway Main furling system

[Fuss]

The seal can be ordered perhaps closer to your location, but here is a possibility and the seal spec….
bearinstation.co.uk OilSeal part number 20013131 Oil Seal - 1 5/16"X2"X5/16" 3 for gooseneck seal

[Fuss]

So use this to measures yours and check that it is the same.

The seal is not supposed to be removed without unit disassembly but i did it. Then do not use sealant on reinstall only rubber grease. Lasts about 3-4 years.

[Sojourner68]

Originally Posted by Fuss

So use this to measures yours and check that it is the same.

The seal is not supposed to be removed without unit disassembly but i did it. Then do not use sealant on reinstall only rubber grease. Lasts about 3-4 years.

Thanks @Fuss. I did find a US supplier for the seal. Indalorigging currently services these units. As you said, they recommend a full rebuild of the unit but will supply the seal stand-alone. I’m debating if I pursue the seal replacement in place for now and save the rebuild for end of season.

When removing in place did you just use a picking tool to pull the old seal out? Does the new seal then just press fit in place(with rubber grease)?

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Sojourner68

Thanks @Fuss. I did find a US supplier for the seal. Indalorigging currently services these units. As you said, they recommend a full rebuild of the unit but will supply the seal stand-alone. I’m debating if I pursue the seal replacement in place for now and save the rebuild for end of season.

When removing in place did you just use a picking tool to pull the old seal out? Does the new seal then just press fit in place(with rubber grease)?

Yes, a check of the whole system would be good, especially the bearing at the mast head. It should be easy for the company to inspect at the end of the season and see if it needs a rebuild.
Rebuilds are not necessary at every seal replace stage as this seems to be around 4 years.
I used a picking type tool and did this very carefully so as not to lose anything inside, like the seal spring. Hopefully the previous replacer did not glue the seal in or all will be much more difficult.

yes the new seal just presses in place, be careful that the seal spring is secure. use rubber grease on the shaft and also the outside of the seal. I also use this opportunity to empty the rest of the ATF and then fill the ATF fluid back to full.

[GordMay]

As Sojourner68 notes [#18], Indalo Rigging is the North American service center, for Hood Stoway, and headsail furling systems.
Hood Stoway Service [Jim Fox] at Indalo Marine Rigging:
➥ https://indalorigging.com/hood-furling-systems/

Contact Indalo Rigging,
Address: 12 Ingallshore Road, Bernard, Maine 04612, USA
Phone: +1 (207) 244-9050
Email: jim@indalorigging.com

[edwmama]

I have the same problem that just happened yesterday
The fluid had all leaked out though the electric motor still works
But I’m afraid to use it now with no motor oil in it

Mine was installed new in aug of 1984

Edwin

[Tudorsailor]

I have an Electric Hood Stowaway installed 2001
I would point out that Hood and then its reiteration called Formula no longer exist

The seal at the mast is easily found in the UK. I bought mine from https://actionseals.co.uk/ He was kind enough to swap the non-stainless internal spring for a stainless spring
Together with VAT and postage, the seal cost £11. If I had bought two, the price would have been only a little more.

The letters and numbers that you need to know are
NTK NC1153 SC 200 137 31
The part number from actionseals is NTK SC 2.00 1.37 0.31

If the motor has failed - as it did on mine, the motor is american from Speedwinch and is model number 89-33296

Finally, you do have the adapter that allows you to furl with an electric drill should the motor fail? If not well worth getting one made.

[edwmama]

Thank you so much

This is extremely helpful

I will reach out to UK about the seals

Meanwhile Jim fox of Maine wants me to mail the system to him

Is it really possible to remove the system without taking down the mast?

Thanks in advance
Edwin

[Tudorsailor]

Originally Posted by edwmama

Thank you so much

Meanwhile Jim fox of Maine wants me to mail the system to him

Is it really possible to remove the system without taking down the mast?

Thanks in advance
Edwin

You do not say which part Jim Fox wants. The control box is supplied by Cay Electronics and Rufus there was most helpful in sorting out an issue I had some years ago. Its easy to remove
CAY ELECTRONICS, INC.
One Maritime Drive
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
(401) 683-3520 Fax (401) 683-3633

The swivel at the top of the mast should be dropped and removed so that you can clean it up and replace the Torlon balls. I did this myself and wrote a guide on how to do it should you wish to see. Again easy.

Taking off the gearbox and motor is a nightmare! I had a rigger do this for me in Mallorca but I was on board. The main problem is that the assembly is put onto the mast with a layer of sikaflex that is probably unnecessary. From memory, pulling the assembly off the mast required putting a line through the screw holes and then pulling with a winch that is in the cockpit. Getting it back on required squashing it onto the mast by tightening a turnbuckle. If I ever do this again, I would not put sikaflex between the assembly and the mast as the rigger did. I seem to remember that there was not much excess in the wires going up to the motor from below. As I have a painted mast, this all had to be done without leaving gouges in the paintwork!
So yes, you can remove all parts without removing the mast

Good luck

TS

[edwmama]

Jim fox said

“If the oil leaked out
There usually something more to it”

He suggest removing the unit and ship it it to him for rebuild

The motor seems to work fine

this system was installed new in August 1984

If maybe an older generation than what you have

I’ve sent pix to UK seals since I don’t even have a model number of

this system. Having the correct seals part no would be best


Thank you kindly

Edwin

[edwmama]

Originally Posted by Tudorsailor

You do not say which part Jim Fox wants. The control box is supplied by Cay Electronics and Rufus there was most helpful in sorting out an issue I had some years ago. Its easy to remove
CAY ELECTRONICS, INC.
One Maritime Drive
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
(401) 683-3520 Fax (401) 683-3633

The swivel at the top of the mast should be dropped and removed so that you can clean it up and replace the Torlon balls. I did this myself and wrote a guide on how to do it should you wish to see. Again easy.

Taking off the gearbox and motor is a nightmare! I had a rigger do this for me in Mallorca but I was on board. The main problem is that the assembly is put onto the mast with a layer of sikaflex that is probably unnecessary. From memory, pulling the assembly off the mast required putting a line through the screw holes and then pulling with a winch that is in the cockpit. Getting it back on required squashing it onto the mast by tightening a turnbuckle. If I ever do this again, I would not put sikaflex between the assembly and the mast as the rigger did. I seem to remember that there was not much excess in the wires going up to the motor from below. As I have a painted mast, this all had to be done without leaving gouges in the paintwork!
So yes, you can remove all parts without removing the mast

Good luck

TS

Hello again

Please send me the guide you prepared on removing the top of mast swivel. Obviously I need all the help I can get

Thank you kindly
Edwin

[Tudorsailor]

As I posted, for the seal at the mast the letters and numbers that you need to know are
NTK NC1153 SC 200 137 31
The part number from actionseals is NTK SC 2.00 1.37 0.31

I would point out that you install looks older than mine but I bet the seal is the same.

If the oil is leaking from where you can attach the manual wheel or drill surely all that you need is a new seal. Why not try that before removing the whole thing???

If you PM me with your email, I will forward my swivel servicing guide

TS

[edwmama]

Yes

Thank you for that

I’m willing to try that first

Replace the seal

Flush the inside with acetone or kerosene

Then add the ATF OIL SINCE THE MOTOR WORKS

Jim fox suggestion would put the boat out of commission

For months and months

It had already been down for 13 mo due to Perkins diesel problem

And just used it for the first time last weekend, and now this

Let me figure out how to PM message

Cheers