How to lock bottle screw

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by chrisr

what i find most interesting about this is how different regions do things differently

i've been sailing for 60 years...owned something like 15 monos up to 60' & 3 catamarans. mostly in australia, and never ever seen a yacht here that does not have locknuts on the turnbuckles, or met a rigger that would set up a rig without locknuts

i believe it's the norm in Europe as well

the only exception was on some race boats (eg farr 40) we would remove the locknuts and fit a keyring type clip through the hole in the bottom of the thread and around the side of the T/B. this was quicker to remove when making some rig adjustment between races

as they say, different ships, different long splices...

cheers,

Definitely differences in regions. The only place I've seen lock nuts is on bottle screws. Turnbuckles here in NA and on the EU boats I've dealt with just don't use locknuts on turnbuckles. definitely a regional thing!

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by IanTrail

I have always used stainless split rings through the holes in the threaded ends; large enough to prevent the thread turning in the turnbuckle more than a few degrees. I've never had a problem and it avoids the potential chafe and snagging from split pins and seizing wire.

I tried split rings on my 47 footer. That boat had new open body turnbuckles. It wasn't long before they were twisted up like pretzels. It really surprised me. I will admit, right after rerigging and launching that boat, we had some rough weather events in the first few months, so I imagine the rig was put to the test.

I'm now in the cotter pin camp solidly, like most the riggers posting in this thread. That's what I put in after taking out the Pretzels!

I can't imagine much worse than simply running a wire through the holes in the two studs, that ought to twist very easy!

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by chrisr

never ever seen a yacht here that does not have locknuts on the turnbuckles, or met a rigger that would set up a rig without locknuts i believe it's the norm in Europe as well

When you have tubular closed body turnbuckles you're forced to use locknuts because the shanks are enclosed.
That doesn't make it right, the locknuts just add stress in the wrong direction relative to the load in a design that is patently unsuitable, the closed bodies trap water/salt on the lower threads.
And most were/are all stainless, just perfect for galling and internal corrosion.
My introduction to those types of turnbuckles came in the '70s when I was doing commissioning work on newly arrived boats from Tiawan.
Looking at the turnbuckles I thought, "Who is the POS who specked this kind of crap"?
Rod Stevens, Brion Toss, (both sadly passed,) or John Kretchmer or a host of others, would tell you that closed bodies/locknuts should not be used.
The open body jaw-to-jaw turnbuckle made of forged bronze is still the best for the yachts in the size that most of us have.
Yes, I have been on the restored J-boat "Endeavour", and her custom-made turnbuckles are, IIRC, about 4ft or so long, but they're in a different class as to this discussion.

[double u]

a very good & simple system that also prevents forsailsheets from becoming jammed between V & D
IF there are no stemballs at the upper end of the wires!

[Psy at SEA]

Have a gander here...this is a Norwegian product: ~


https://www.biltema.no/en-no/boat/de...pin-2000045520

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by double u

a very good & simple system that also prevents forsailsheets from becoming jammed between V & D
IF there are no stemballs at the upper end of the wires!

My boat uses that same arrangement.
Can you tell me what design that boat is? Those stanchions are used on my boat, and scarce.

[double u]

Originally Posted by sailingharry

My boat uses that same arrangement.
Can you tell me what design that boat is? Those stanchions are used on my boat, and scarce.

Elan 410, Design Rob Humphreys