How to prevent attachments to pullpit from sliding?

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

5200 is SATAN'S GLUE...and shouldn't be on recreational boats except for a few very specific items (hull to deck joint...)

Mechanical and other fasteners are much better.

...useless tube of material that's pretty expensive...

While it isn't a panacea, and simply shouldn't be used for all caulking, 5200 is an important product on any boat. Almost anywhere that the strength of a semi/permanent bond is desired (for instance) for installing equipment mounting pads where through-bolting is not possible, where screw depth is severely limited, and where other adhesives are not practical. Perhaps even for a solution to the sliding rail clamps.

J--The double-stick tape suggestion I like best. Avoid bubba-ing with any permanent defacement of the pulpit, if possible, so the added equipment can be re/moved. But these clamps seem to be not up to the job. I would replace the crappy clamps, to start.

For a permanent solution, TIG weld; this can be done, in situ, but the best job will be done where breezes do not overpower the Argon gas envelope necessary to prevent oxidation. A field expedient is to tap through 1 wall of both stainless clamp and rail, adding a round-head screw. Or drill for a stainless pop-rivet.

[Cheechako]

I have used some big quality SS clamp halves on pulpits. But I'm confused what type of fitting you need? Threaded? Eye?

[D.D.]

Originally Posted by Samantha ann

Drill though both rail and fitting, then tap and put a screw thru them .

This is the best way......You can purchase SS hex head set screws. Drill home in bow rail and insert hex head screw. Does not need to be oversized as it's purpose is not meant to load carry. FORGET the 5200, you will have a mess beyond all belief. Do not rough up the stainless bow rail.....You now have invited RUST and corrosian a definite home.

[hellosailor]

What makes 5200 especially Satanic, is that sometimes it doesn't bond to stainless steel AT ALL. Does a nice job at permanent installation of a through-hull though.

If the bit of inner tube wasn't enough, then the clam-shell fittings are simply too large and the rubber isn't thick enough.

Using double-sided tape would work if that isn't also too thin. 3M's VHB tape, a stronger version, could also be used. I've also gotten a grip on smooth metal by using a piece of (3M !) medium to fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, the black backed kind, with the grit against the metal. Then one layer of rubber or tape, and a second layer "grit out" over that. The two layers of sandpaper bind to the rubber or tape, the grit bites in and stops whatever from slipping and rotating.

But again if the clamshells are too big to begin with....

You might also see if a local shoemaker has a strip of rubber or crepe that is a little thicker and will solve that problem. Or, buy a thicker cheap rubber/vinyl placemat at the dollar store. Great shim material for a buck or less.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

While it isn't a panacea, and simply shouldn't be used for all caulking, 5200 is an important product on any boat. Almost anywhere that the strength of a semi/permanent bond is desired (for instance) for installing equipment mounting pads where through-bolting is not possible, where screw depth is severely limited, and where other adhesives are not practical. Perhaps even for a solution to the sliding rail clamps.

J--The double-stick tape suggestion I like best. Avoid bubba-ing with any permanent defacement of the pulpit, if possible, so the added equipment can be re/moved. But these clamps seem to be not up to the job. I would replace the crappy clamps, to start.

For a permanent solution, TIG weld; this can be done, in situ, but the best job will be done where breezes do not overpower the Argon gas envelope necessary to prevent oxidation. A field expedient is to tap through 1 wall of both stainless clamp and rail, adding a round-head screw. Or drill for a stainless pop-rivet.

Exactly. Certainly it isn't used where a sealant is a better choice, but there are many spot applications. It just requires some forethought and the acknowledgment that it is an adhesive with specific characteristics.

That said, It doesn't stick to polished SS very well and probably won't work. Either double stick tape, athletic tape (yup, works pretty well), or leather. If that doesn't work, either drilling, figuring a brace, or not worrying about it.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Samantha ann

Drill though both rail and fitting, then tap and put a screw thru them .

If you drill your pulpit and it leaks it's going to fill up with water, rust etc.....

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Andrew Troup

I've had better luck with a Simpson grade specially formulated for (I think) stainless, certainly marine metals..

MSR was the product code. Used it once to do a Mickey Mouse repair on a stainless water tank which had been built into the joinery, and a weld had let go along a top corner. We welded up a close-fitting exterior corner splint in heavier stainless with a strong girder profile each way at the midsection, tapering down towards the ends, coated the two items with MSR, and then used timber wedges, screwed in place, to keep it in firm contact. Still doing the trick a decade later, as far as anyone can tell (belongs in the Bad McGyver thread, eh!)

Duly noted by the OP.... No double posting required....

I'm in the clamshell is too big camp here... Or a get a better style... I've had this problem on cheap ski boats, but not on a sailboat with a sturdy thick walled pulpit...

[Jd1]

Wow, lots of new ideas this morning. Thanks guys!
I was considering drilling the tube but had not thought about the issue of leakage and internal corrosion. Thanks for pointing that out Cheechako! That is off the table for good now.
Do you happen to remember where you sourced the quality large fittings you mentioned ? The actual fitting doesn't matter as much as long as it clamps around a 1" rail. I have a TIG setup and can attach pretty much anything to an existing fitting.
I really like the idea of the body trim double sided tape !! Thanks 'bornyesterday' (you should really put a 'not' in front of that handle!)! That stuff holds amazingly well considering what body trim goes through. I will try and source some of that stuff tomorrow.

[Jd1]

I located some 3M double sided tape for car body side moldings but I choked at the price of close to $70 after taxes for a single roll of which I might need just a foot or two. I went to plan 'B' which was some 220 grit emery cloth which I had in the shop. I folded it over to give grit on both sides and installed it at a particular annoying trouble spot and am cautiously optimistic.
We have beautiful weather today (the heavens are supposed to open tomorrow and the rest of the week) so I had a great excuse for a test sail and the fitting (holds a pulley for the genoa furler line) was rock solid. The load wasn't near maximum today and I have no idea how the emery cloth will stand up to weather but so far so good. Time will tell !
If it does fail I will spring for the $70 solution
Again, thanks for all the great ideas !

[LakeSuperior]

Clean both surfaces with MEK or acetone. Rough both surfaces with 100 grit wet/dry paper. Clean both surfaces again with solvent. Apply long cure unfilled epoxy. If you need to remove in the future gently heat with propane torch to soften epoxy and break free.

[bornyesterday]

I have a couple of rolls in store. If I can find them I'd be happy to send you some. Think I paid about £6/$10 for each
. 3m is always ott.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Jd1

...I went to plan 'B' which was some 220 grit emery cloth...

The iron, aluminum oxide and magnesia should quickly corrode and stain.

[bornyesterday]

Hi Jd1,
3M may be the best available but I find I don't always need the best.
The stuff I have isn't 3m but hasn't failed whenever I've used it.
One roll that I've had since about 1986 is indistinguishable from new.

I only mentioned the price I paid so you would know you should be able to find it a lot cheaper than $70. If I can find mine I'll gladly send you a few feet for postage cost but it could take a while from the UK.

Sorry my last post was unclear, was at work and pressed for time.

[hellosailor]

3M tapes, and other brands, are available in shorter less expensive rolls from...Amazon. And a decent 3M "exterior grade" gray double-sided mounting tape is sold in 3 yard (?) blisterpacked rolls at hardware stores, too.Vaguely under ten bucks, no need to spend seventy.