Keep it or ditch it?

[Bigjim]

I just bought a 1978 Columbia 10.7. I'm not happy with the mainsheet configuration.

The mainsheet uses a long complicated routing to the cabin top from the end of the boom using two blocks on the boom and one on the traveler that's positioned in the cockpit. The sheet then travels to the front of the boom down to the deck and then all the way back to the cockpit to winch and cleat, like this:



This configuration uses 5 blocks and a winch and a cleat. The distance from the last block to the front of the boom is around 13 feet.

The boat's statistics are:
I: 42.80'
J: 14.80'
P: 38.00'
E: 11.70'

and 222.30 ft2 sail area on the main.

The current set up requires a lot of rope to feed the beast but does not provide any benefit that I can see. Since the boat uses a wheel, it's impossible for the helmsman to adjust the main from that station.

With this info, does it make any sense to move the traveler or switch out the three single blocks for a more compact setup using two multi-block cam cleat and keep it all in the cockpit?

Something more like this:

[Cheechako]

Not sure if you have a complaint? Frictionless blocks could make a big difference if the system doesnt adjust easy. The current config would work with a dodger right? Not sure if the new config does or not. traveler on the bridgedeck? Is there a dodger? If the new system wont interfere, it looks like it maybe an improvement and easier to adjust.
I've found if you have the tail of the sheet back at the helm you can adjust the main from there by snapping it out of the cam cleat and easing off or pulling in except heavy air.

[thinwater]

Post a picture.


Often boats are set up with no consideration given to short handed sailing. With a proper tackle, there is no overwhelming need for winching the main on that size boat.

Maybe you can borrow a tackle for the day and see if you like it.

[Sailmonkey]

We have our main sheet setup like what you propose, just a simple 4:1 with fiddle blocks. It’s easy, works, is low friction, and is adjustable anywhere you can reach the sheet.

[Bigjim]

Here is a better version of the mainsheet configuration:



Here's an actual photo. Yes, the current configuration would work for a dodger, although we don't have one yet.



The proposed design using the traveler and multipart blocks would also work. The traveler is well back of the cabin top.

[Orion Jim]

Since you are considering a change consider all alternatives. Since the boat is new to you you may be doing yourself a disservice by not gaining experience with the current set up before making a change. You may find the wisdom in the current configuration. I have a mid boom set up with my traveler just forward of my dodger and the sheet running forward as you have, then running back to the main sheet winch on the cabin top. It keeps the mess out of the cockpit other than the tail of the main sheet. I can adjust my traveller and the main sheet from the protection of my dodger. Very welcome indeed when the spray is flying at sea.

[Bigjim]

I'm concerned that feeding the sheet all the way to the front wastes about 26 feet of rope and puts extra stress on the mast connection for no benefit.

[Bigjim]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

Since you are considering a change consider all alternatives. Since the boat is new to you you may be doing yourself a disservice by not gaining experience with the current set up before making a change. You may find the wisdom in the current configuration. I have a mid boom set up with my traveler just forward of my dodger and the sheet running forward as you have, then running back to the main sheet winch on the cabin top. It keeps the mess out of the cockpit other than the tail of the main sheet. I can adjust my traveller and the main sheet from the protection of my dodger. Very welcome indeed when the spray is flying at sea.

Yes, that is one idea I'm looking at. My first choice is to use the existing hardware and attachment points when possible. If I do, it means lower costs and does not preclude switching to your suggestion afterward. Moving to the cabin top means I have to buy a new traveller, drill holes and perform lots of other adjustments. Then, if it doesn't work out, I've thrown a lot of money away and drills holes in the boat that I no longer need.

My first idea is to try the existing set up and evaluate it. I'm just leery of wasting 26 feet of rope and was trying to get some other opinions. Thanks

[Bigjim]

One note to everyone: I sailed my Cal 27 all last year and got some valuable experience. One thing I saw time and time again is that whenever a rope has to go through a small space fast, it often jams when there are any kinks in it.

We had a cam cleat on a multi-block for our main sheet. The main sheet almost never jammed because it never needed to be used with a winch.

The new boat has a winch set up for the main sheet. I don't know if I will need to use it for the main but if I do, it will tend to put kinks in the rope.

Our jib sheet always got kinks and would often jam when released during a tack. Last year we exclusively did cruising. That means we may not have had a crew member watching both winches. The released sheet often jammed due to the kinks.

So, I'm concerned the new mainsheet will have the same problem. Plus, the mainsheet is cleated to the cabin top, far away from the wheel. That means single-hand sailing will be very hard.

[JPA Cate]

Weekly removal of the twists keeps the lines running freely.

I'm not a particularly strong individual, and I have always needed the main sheet winches we have had, in order to get adequate tension on the wind.

Ann

[stormalong]

Two blocks on the boom separated by some distance puts less stress on the boom and makes it less likely to break.

"Wasting" 26 feet of line is an interesting remark for a boat. The cost is less than a drop in the bucket of boat ownership. If the mast cannot handle the stress of that block at the gooseneck replace the mast.

The current setup is what I have on my boat but with three blocks on the boom. 500 sq ft mainsail. Routing the line that way is a big plus if you are going to fit a bimini.

I agree with the comment to sail it as it is for a while and then decide if you want to change it.

[Cadence]

I'd stick with what you have. A reduction between your boom and traveler and a clean run to your winch. A few feet if line is so what?

[guyrj33]

Ditch it.
Use at least a 4 part direct to the traveler.
Regardless of block construction every bend in the rope creates friction.

[NevisDog]

I think the point is to be able to adjust from the helm position. The arrangement shown seems better suited to day-sailing with spare bodies always in the cockpit. I'd change the set-up to better suit single-handing and can't see a problem with the proposed alternative. Boom isn't likely to break with a strong, single attachment point - is it?

[Jim Cate]

On our previous boat, a 36' ex racer with ~250 sq ft main, we had a four part tackle from a mid cockpit traveler to the end of the boom... with an addition: the sheet was endless (ends of the line spliced together) and there was a small winch (Barient 21) mounted below the traveler. The tackle included a cam cleat, and most adjustments were done hand over hand via the tackle. When hard on the wind in a blow, the winch was used to get the final few inches in, pulling on the other end of the sheet. This gave great ultimate power but allowed fast adjustment under lighter conditions. Being endless, the sheet never got all bunched up at one end or the other. It was all in reach of the helmsman.

worked well for us, and would likely do so for you. Our winch wasn't self tailing, so there was a horn cleat next to it for termination. A self tailer would eliminate the need for the cleat.

Oh... I agree that your current setup is poorly suited to short handed sailing and should be changed so that the helmsman can reach the main sheet.

jim