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Old 10-07-2007, 01:54   #1
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Leaky old hatches...

All of the old hatches on my boat seem to leak in one way or another.

I think the PB (previous builder) used old secondhand hatches.

One has a broken hinge and they all seem to have perished rubber seals.

The only seal supplier is offering car door seals which might be better.

So how does one make hatches watertight. I mean able to resist rain driven by 30-40 knot wind and not leak a drop?

And if they need replacement what would be the best hatches to replace them with?
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:59   #2
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What brand are the hatches?

"The only seal supplier" ? There's more than one. Grainger and McMaster by mail order, or the hatch manufacturer among others. Car door seals might or might not be the right thing, depends on what the hatch was designed for.

If hatches are installed properly (level, level seats, not torqued out of shape) and seals are preserved (ArmorAll or talc or other treatment) so the hatches don't have to be over-compressed to get a good uniform seal, they usually seal pretty well.

You need to compare as against new/good hatches and see why yours are leaking, and then fix what's wrong. If that means ordering new seals by mail....So?

Or, you can buy a new boat.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:34   #3
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Take it from me - a guy who had to rebed and re-seal just about every hatch in his boat.

Getting a new hatch isn't the answer. Well, it's not the cheap answer anyway. Getting a new hatch will only save you the time of replacing the rubber seal, since you will still have to remove the old and bed the new. Not all that different from just rebedding.

Find the brand of the hatch and contact them or someone who sells the current model of them. Ask where you can get replacement gaskets for the hatch, order, then install. While you're at it, rebed any hatches that are leaking from areas that are not associated with the rubber gaskets.

Not only will the newly sealed and rebed hatches stand up to wind driven rain, they'll be perfectly watertight in a capsize (let's hope that doesn't get tested out!)

If you can't find replacement gaskets, make up some new gaskets.

Not only are hatches like you picture expensive ($300-$500 each!), but ordering new won't really save you much time or engergy in the project.
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Old 10-07-2007, 15:59   #4
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what do you suggest rebedding with,4200, boat life,or something else?
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Old 10-07-2007, 21:02   #5
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"D" shaped foam seals and lipped seals...

I can find foam tape of the right size fairly easily but the small hatches use a 3/4" "D" shaped seal and the larger hatches (Bomar) use a lipped seal where the lip clips into place to hold the seal in place.

I cannot find any mention of replacement seals on the Bomar web site.

Does anyone know where I could find replacement hatch seals?
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Old 11-07-2007, 00:45   #6
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Wow! - Just found my niche market! There is an outfit here that makes seals to order. The have "spools" of d-seal, bulb seal etc.

You give them a shape, they cut a piece and vulcanize the ends together to make one continuous seal.

We are having them make seals for our lockers and hatches.
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:40   #7
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speaking of hatches I pulled my 31" alum. frame hatch to have it powder coated. It's only 27+ YO I thought about replaceing it but it cost about $3200.

So 10 hours labor & a $300 paint job is well worth it. I was surprised that it had VERY little pitting and it was all in the screw areas where the salt could get in and settle.



http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.ns...b?OpenDocument
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:59   #8
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BOMAR / Gray - Pompanette LLC.
Web: Pompanette LLC.
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Cast Hatch Parts - See “D”:
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Extruded Hatch Parts - See “F” & “G”:
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Old 11-07-2007, 12:18   #9
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For installing new seals/gaskets use a product called "siliprene" it is used by "Atkins and Hoyle" for their hatches and ports but can be found for about $10.00 tube if you look around.
Here is another source for port and hatch gaskets and parts to add to the never ending quest for the perfect cheap black snake. You can check out the web site at http://www.hatchrepair.com/
I seen Hammerhead’s stuff and it looks the same as A&H’s at about half the price. I suspect Hammerhead uses the same supplier as the owner used to work for A&H. Talked to him for a bit and saw his repair shop. He appears to know the ropes.

Here is a partial price list ($Cdn and do not include shipping and taxes).

Gasket for 5x12 port - $10
Gasket for 7x24 port - $17
Tube of Siliprene - $20
5x12 screen - $20
7x24 screen - $29
Screens are similar to those sold by A&H
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:18   #10
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Hammerhead's stuff may 'look like' the original Atkins & Hoyle parts but do not be fooled. Many of their products are of lower qulaity and will not last the 15-25 years that many have come to expect from Atkins & Hoyle products. The old adage remains true; you get what you pay for.
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Old 12-03-2008, 13:38   #11
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At least, concerning 'Atkins & Hoyle' products & practices, you can take Benjamaphone 's advice to the bank.
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