Main Halyard for Oyster 55 Spectra or Not?

[botanybay]

Well, the time has come to replace all of the running rigging on the boat. Most everything is fine with double braid as the winches and clutches are setup for it.

The question is the Main Halyard (and the Genoa and Staysail) if Sta-set X is sufficient or if Endurabraid (or something like it) is a good trade.

One limiting factor is that the maximum line size for the clutches is 1/2" / 12mm. I suspect the sheaves at the masthead are about the same.

Looking at Sta-Set X and Endurabraid, difference in price is about 2.5x for the Spectra/Dyneema core at the same size (I could go down in size but 1/2 or 7/16" works well in the cam clutches).

The line for these halyards now has a gold core, it appears to be loosely woven. I was very happy with the performance of these halyards. They are just very worn at this point (the cover is sun damaged, the clutches don't seem to have caused any trouble on the existing line).

The new main is a North 3dI Endurance which really points beautifully with much less heel that I had before :-)

Thanks

[fxykty]

Yes it costs more. So did your sail choice. You should absolutely get non-stretch halyards for your membrane sails. Stick to 12mm or go down to 7/16” if available. Your existing halyards are likely Kevlar core - also non-stretch - but if the covers are worn then the core will have lost strength.

You should also consider non-stretch sheets.

[Tsuru]

I had a poor experience with Sta-set X. It was low stretch as advertised but the line was stiff and difficult to manage. I switched to Endurabraid and and am pleased with the choice. Consider changing the outhaul also.

[Benz]

Stay away from Sta-set X. The yellow core on the existing halyards may be Kevlar, as was said, or Vectran (my guess) or Technora. All of which stretch less than StaSet X, and are far stronger for the same diameter.
I wouldn't go any cheaper than Endura Braid, or T-900 if you're really poor.
I've spliced a lot of halyards for Oysters, and no owner has gone back to lesser rope after using dyneema core.

[TheOffice]

Gold plated boat, gold plated sails, pay for gold plated lines

[botanybay]

This is a picture of the old main halyard.

Main halyard 134’6” 0.5020”
1/2” 12.75mm

[botanybay]

Here is the existing staysail halyard

Staysail Halyard 100’1” 0.4280
27/64 10.89mm

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by Benz

Stay away from Sta-set X. The yellow core on the existing halyards may be Kevlar, as was said, or Vectran (my guess) or Technora. All of which stretch less than StaSet X, and are far stronger for the same diameter.
I wouldn't go any cheaper than Endura Braid, or T-900 if you're really poor.
I've spliced a lot of halyards for Oysters, and no owner has gone back to lesser rope after using dyneema core.

Great bit of information! I definitely don’t mind spending good money where is makes a difference which is noticeable.

I do see a few flavors of dyneema cored lines. I think the EnduraBraid is SK78, there are some SK37? Based lines which some vendors use for a lower priced alternative. There is SK99 which is really for hard core racing on money is no object vessels.

The EnduraBraid looks like a good compromise. Any thoughts about use with “normal” sheeves? Also clutches, the current clutches are cam style from 1990. The cams did not damage the existing line over perhaps 15-20 years (they were on the boat 13 years ago and were not new)

I suspect the creep will be higher with dyneema compared to current if the current are kevlar or technora core?

Any other lines with good UV resistance I should be considering?

[s/v Jedi]

Those look like Vectran core. I don’t like it because it has pretty bad UV resistance compared to Dyneema and it’s fibers get into your skin like fiberglass can when you grind it.

So I recommend you upgrade to a product like Samson WarpSpeed 2. A 1/4” core diameter should be enough which is the 3/8” diameter WarpSpeed 2. If your clutch requires a larger diameter then the 7/16” should work.

You can partially strip the cover for the part that doesn’t touch the clutch/winch because the core is coated like the Amsteel Blue so UV resistant.

For your headsails, if they are on furlers, I recommend you consider the Antal halyard systems: Halyard systems
With these, your halyard can be Amsteel Blue and is only half the length, enormously reducing cost and rope bundles at the mast.

[s/v Jedi]

Oh wait… Oyster 55 is a sloop, right? In that case go for the 7/16” diameter. I have 3/8” on my Sundeer 64 but I am a ketch so a much smaller mainsail.

Also, this puts you in the larger Antal halyard system: Halyard system 52'-80'
Note that this system replaces the clutch and installs on that position on the mast.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by botanybay

Great bit of information! I definitely don’t mind spending good money where is makes a difference which is noticeable.

I do see a few flavors of dyneema cored lines. I think the EnduraBraid is SK78, there are some SK37? Based lines which some vendors use for a lower priced alternative. There is SK99 which is really for hard core racing on money is no object vessels.

The EnduraBraid looks like a good compromise. Any thoughts about use with “normal” sheeves? Also clutches, the current clutches are cam style from 1990. The cams did not damage the existing line over perhaps 15-20 years (they were on the boat 13 years ago and were not new)

I suspect the creep will be higher with dyneema compared to current if the current are kevlar or technora core?

Any other lines with good UV resistance I should be considering?

The garden variety dyneema these days is SK78, and is the workhorse of even most fancy racers, who only upgrade to SK99 where they really need it. SK 37 was being used by Marlow in their "club" line, meant for an economical alternative for cruisers. They've phased that out and are using a SK78/polypro blend for Club. It's a huge improvement, IMO. I'd use it for sheets, but with your boat it's worth shelling out for SK78-cored.
Endura is fine, though it's on the low end of quality. Marlow's D2 race is as good as it gets, or Maffioli (sold locally as "Kingfisher").
Lanex is designing a rope to compete with Endura, it will be a good value when it's available.

[TheOffice]

The D2 Club is significantly cheaper than Endura.
I spoke to aMarlow rep at the boat show. He said the SK37 was being phased out because it was not widely used, so was costing more than the 78.

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by TheOffice

The D2 Club is significantly cheaper than Endura.
I spoke to aMarlow rep at the boat show. He said the SK37 was being phased out because it was not widely used, so was costing more than the 78.

Great information.

Looks like something with the SK78 core is probably the way to go.

Anything to worry about masthead sheave shape with these lines?

[s/v Jedi]

Wow, y’all are talking about rope brands that wouldn’t be my first choice… who is selling that to make it so popular?

I’ve simply been keeping it with Samson, probably because they invented the rope we all use. Am I right in assuming Samson is more expensive?

When it comes down to price, is it known which Dyneema fiber one uses? I think I know that Samson uses DSM and I guess there are many manufacturers now because I believe the patent expired. Are they all good?

[botanybay]

Interesting question about differences between makers of the Dyneema even for the same SK78.

Most of what I have used over the years has been New England ropes as it is available and I liked splicing it. But that was mostly double braid for a smaller boat.

This is really my first replacement of all the running rigging so pretty much a clean slate. Planning to go out for quotes from local riggers as well as online but preferably local unless silly $$ difference.

Sounds like potential options
Marlo: D2 Race
NE ropes: EnduraBraid
Sampson: warp speed 2?

Probably stick with 7/16 or 1/2 (12mm) as it has worked well in the existing clutches for a long time.

I suspect different riggers will favor different brands. I wonder if any of them tolerate existing sheave shape or stoppers better.