Mainsheet Tackle Extension Using Strops

[thinwater]

In a resent forum thread people were arguing (always) whether or not to put a swivel on the anchor.


Same question, but regarding mainsheet tackles.


-----



If the tackle sheets to a winch it probably runs along under the boom and a swivel serves no purpose. You could extend the top block to save rope but it would increase the likelihood of twist in the tackle.So probably not.



However, if the tackle is hand sheeted through a cam cleat, probably yes.

• The bottom blocks and cam cleat needs to rotate 120-180 degrees with every tack because the crew moves.
• If the top block does not rotate to match the bottom the tackle will twist and rub.

The other question is do the blocks need to mount dirrectly to the traveler and boom, or can then be extended with strops?

Both photos are Corsair F-24s.

The high cam cleat makes it easier to sheet from the windward ama.

The positives are:

• An extension is lower friction than any swivel. Helpful at the top.
• The rope can be reduced by 4-8 times the length of the extensions. For me, a 5-inch extension saved 35 inches of rope. Whoopee.
• The cam cleat may be at a better height. A low cam cleat can make for impossible sheeting if the crew is sitting out. This is the most common reason for extending the bottom of the tackle.
• Easier to attach the tackle if it is removed from the boom frequently. The strop is easier to grab than some big bundle of blocks that are turning.

The negatives are

• Extending the top block downwards can put it at the perfect height to remove you teeth during a jibe. Boat specific.
• The bottom block can be floppy for sheeting in light air.
• Can be more difficult to grab the tackle and pull it across during a light air jibe.

The short extension made for smoother swiveling during tacks. The bottom is direct to the traveler, which holds the cam cleat steady in light air.




Any other thoughts?



I extended the top block on my F-24 down a little (dirrectly above) mostly because the top swivel was high friction. I extended the top block on my Stiletto 27 because the tackle came off every time the sail was lowered or reefed.

[wholybee]

I use a dyneema loop on the lower block as in the first photo. My traveler is forward of the wheel, and raising it makes it easier to reach while standing behind the wheel. It also positions the cam cleat so it is easier to cleat or release.

I have not noticed any negatives, but it works much better on my boat. Boat specific, of course.

[Benz]

Strops alow and aloft would negate the need for swivels, if the material is in line and can twist a little.
The only consideration for lower block height is whether you can easily work it, and whether it will interfere with anything else. I guess a shorter run of passes will shockload more in a gybe, but you're probably not crash-gybing a tri like that....

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Benz

... I guess a shorter run of passes will shockload more in a gybe, but you're probably not crash-gybing a tri like that....

Interesting point. Most people use Dyneema for extensions, but if you used a nylon stop of the appropriate strength (like on my Stiletto 27) it will likely stretch more than 8 passes of 6000-pound test polyester line. In fact, 5800-pound Dyneema is going to stretch about like 8x6000=48,000-pound polyester. Really, neither stretches. Then people add a Dyneema (no stretch) traveler line and they wonder why the laminate (no stretch) sail tears from leach to luff.