Mast Step Makers

[MicHughV]

That step is just there to keep the foot of the mast from wandering around.
I think 2-2.5" or so is ample height for the bars.
If you don't have access to a welder, use an L piece of alum instead of the flat bar shown above. Attach each L leg to the plate with with some machine screws. Drill and tap into the bottom plate and use 3 machine screws per leg...1/4" dia. should do the trick.
The screws should be flush with the bottom of the plate. If you can't find the right length, just grind off any excess.
Might want to put a dab of thread locker on each machine screw, so vibration can't shake it loose.

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

That step is just there to keep the foot of the mast from wandering around.
I think 2-2.5" or so is ample height for the bars.
If you don't have access to a welder, use an L piece of alum instead of the flat bar shown above. Attach each L leg to the plate with with some machine screws. Drill and tap into the bottom plate and use 3 machine screws per leg...1/4" dia. should do the trick.
The screws should be flush with the bottom of the plate. If you can't find the right length, just grind off any excess.
Might want to put a dab of thread locker on each machine screw, so vibration can't shake it loose.

Thats a great Cruiser fix. You could do that just about anywhere in the world with basic hand tools.

[Capt. Don]

I made a mast step for my mizzen mast (F&C44) from 1/2" thick fiberglass plates that I epoxied and bolted together.
The bottom of the mast was so corroded that I have to cut off 2" from the bottom thus the 4 layers of 1/2" fiberglass extra at the bottom.
I have a cnc machine. Extren fiberglass is inexpensive on eBay.
Included holes for wires.
The U bolt is for the main mast back stay.

[lifeofreilly57]

Just remember the order of sacrificial metals when reproducing your mast step.

[Ratty1978]

I did a drawing of what I needed for a Tartan 10 -- dimensions from the one I was replacing that had a broken flange with wider flanges so it didn't happen again -- and had an aluminum foundry cast one. It wasn't a special "marine" foundry, just job shop, and it was out of town, the drawing was enough for them. But it was a deck stepped mast, so everything was there.

Originally Posted by jeffandlori

I'm looking for a mast step for a 71 Morgan 38. Aside from RigRite and US Spar, are there any other companies that make/sell mast steps?

[Boatwright]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

OP, the 2nd pic above by Bad Orca is a good rendition.
A little file work to fit the mast curve and no sharp edges.
Make sure that no water can sit anywhere inside.
If bolt holes for the step are outside of the mast, (a very good idea,) then it can be beneficial to slot those holes.
I see your boat has a keel stepped mast?
The slots allow some rake adjustment while still keeping the mast in the center of hole thru the overhead.
For your size/weight boat I would make the base plate of 1/2in. and the internal parts at least 3/8ths.

Very good advice. Others have mentioned 6061 aluminum alloy. This is also an excellent choice for weldability, and corrosion resistance.

An alternative design that works well is a 2" tall aluminum box, a bit wider athwartship, and a few inches longer fore-and-aft than the mast. The mast is secured with hardwood shims that also allow fore-and aft mast rake adjustments. The advantage of this design is that it allows rake adjustments after the mast is in the boat.

BTW: Very often "machine shops" are either too busy or too specialized for this type of work. Most towns of any size have a go-to welding shop that does a wide variety of metal fabrication and should be able to do this type of job.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

Alum is so easy to work with. Even places like Home Depot carry the stuff.
You can cut it with a band saw if you put in the appropriate band.

I often cut aluminum on my table saw with a fine wood cutting blade. Just be sure to wear hearing and eye protection. It's loud and the "saw dust" comes off like tiny bullets. For harder metals I change to a fiber cut off disc. That will even do stainless but it's really slow.
And as said above make sure it can't trap water. That may be why the original wasted away. Better the step than the bottom of the mast though.