Matching rigging eye size to furler stud

[WaldPinkler]

Hi folks,

I'm trying to figure out my rigging replacement parts. I'm stuck on this profurl furler end.

I'm looking at bluewave swageless fittings and reusing the bronze turn buckle. They only sell 5/8" threaded eyes with a hole diameter for 14.5mm or 16.5mm. It seems like a strange measurement.

The existing stud is 5/8". I'm thinking I should replace the stud but they come in M14 or M16. Unless the half millimetre gap is intentional? (I'm in Australia so metric is much easier to come by).

Or get the 14.5mm eye and drill it out to 16mm.

Or don't replace the threaded eye and continue on with the wire above the turnbuckle.

Thanks for any help. I hate that this project has these complications.

[markxengineerin]

Could you clarify what you mean by stud? The through bolt that pins everything to the chain plate? That area looks "wrong" in the photo- uneven spacers on each side.
Do you have dimension drawing for the 14.5 and 16.5mm pieces? Most likely the 14.5 can be drilled out, but it's most obviously ok if the only difference between the 14.5 and 16.5 is that hole.
To do this most correctly, the bolt should have an unthreaded shoulder everywhere that it's loaded in shear/bending.

Edit: these things get pretty complicated when you start trying to swap parts out if things are different sizes vs. original. The length of the threads matters. Having clearance to pull the "swaged" stay through the ID of the furler foil matters. Access to tighten/loosen the turnbuckle matters. I ended up making a few of these parts multiple times because of dumb mistakes, just saying, be careful and it's best to make a drawing of everything, including the sail, foil length, halyard clearance up top, etc etc.

[WaldPinkler]

You are right it looks weird. I agree I don't want to do things twice.

The original set up is just wrong. Here is a proper one, except there's no turn buckle:

[markxengineerin]

Yes, i believe the piece with the 2 nuts on it is a stepped pin from ProFurl. It does not need to be though, I just use a stainless bolt with appropriate spacers and tightened / locked in an appropriate way that still allows toggling.
I will also mention again about making sure the swageless fitting can slip through the inside of the foil. On my setup, I had to turn down a swaged fitting slightly to get it to pass through when I realized it would not quite fit. I think swageless fittings are generally a bit bigger (don't know, I've never used them)

[WaldPinkler]

I can use a double jaw toggle on the double-ended stud located between the furler link plates, connecting it to the turnbuckle with a threaded eye. (A bolt will do as a replacement, you're right).

Now, regarding the next connection to the rod, which is also part of the bow rollers, I'm a bit confused.

Currently it's like a large toggle that fits on bow roller rod then to both sides of the eye terminal. I'm not sure where to stop replacing rigging and if that's part of it. I could potentially do away with it and use the unused bollard behind the furler. I'll have extra 1/2" chainplate bar soon which I could bolt or weld onto that. I don't know what it's for otherwise.

As for the terminal fitting through the foil, I will need to check the measurements, as they're not listed. I can potentially fit it on after the cable is run through, though.

I noticed that the bluewave double jaw toggle has a 16mm pin and the threaded eye terminal has a 16.5mm hole, which seems a bit unusual. I'm wondering if the 0.5mm gap is supposed to be there.

Again, thanks for your help and advice. I'm still figuring out some of these details and any further input would be greatly appreciated.

[markxengineerin]

Now, regarding the next connection to the rod, which is also part of the bow rollers, I'm a bit confused.

The photos don't show this area very well, can you post some more, as well as of the other bollard and chainplate you refer to?

It is all part of the rigging, because it holds the mast up, and beyond that it's semantics. To replace or not to replace is the judgement call.

A pin and an eye do not need to be a perfect fit, just a good enough fit to distribute the load enough that it's not a problem. 16mm to 16.5mm hole sounds absolutely fine to me.

[WaldPinkler]

I've attached pictures of the rest of the set up.

There is a welded plate that wraps around the bow roller pin then attaches to the same stud the rigging eye is on.

There's an old bollard in front of the furler. It's unused now and I'm not sure of it's previous purpose.

I have ordered the 1/2" flat bar to replace all the chainplates. Since it comes in 6m lengths then I'll have spare. I could make use of the bollard but the furler would need different link plates.

Thinking about it, I could also weld a piece of the 1/2" bar in between center of the bow roller plates then use a regular toggle turnbuckle onto a bolt instead of the clevis.

It's a confusing set up.

[WaldPinkler]

I'm still seeking advice on a couple of specific points. I really appreciate all the help I've received so far and I'm hoping to get a little more guidance.

Firstly, I've been considering welding a piece of the 1/2" flat bar in between the center of the bow roller plates and then using a regular toggle turnbuckle onto that but spacing the furler link plates is awkward. I'd like to hear thoughts on this idea. Would this be a viable solution?

Secondly, there's an old bollard in front of the furler which is currently unused. I'm not entirely sure of its previous purpose. Could anyone shed some light on what this bollard might have been used for, and if it could be repurposed in my current setup?

I realize my previous posts were quite broad, so I hope these specific questions make it easier for anyone with experience or insights to chime in.

Just bumping this thread in case anyone missed it. Any thoughts or advice on these points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Orion Jim]

Originally Posted by WaldPinkler

I'm still seeking advice on a couple of specific points. I really appreciate all the help I've received so far and I'm hoping to get a little more guidance.

Firstly, I've been considering welding a piece of the 1/2" flat bar in between the center of the bow roller plates and then using a regular toggle turnbuckle onto that but spacing the furler link plates is awkward. I'd like to hear thoughts on this idea. Would this be a viable solution?

Secondly, there's an old bollard in front of the furler which is currently unused. I'm not entirely sure of its previous purpose. Could anyone shed some light on what this bollard might have been used for, and if it could be repurposed in my current setup?

I realize my previous posts were quite broad, so I hope these specific questions make it easier for anyone with experience or insights to chime in.

Just bumping this thread in case anyone missed it. Any thoughts or advice on these points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

The “bollard” which is located aft of your furling drum is a pedestal for a club. I have such an arrangement for my self tacking staysail.