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sepharad · 20-08-2023, 07:09

I have a Kemp Reefin'+ in-mast roller furling "system", This is the predecessor of the Selden line.

In a nutshell it gets stuck and took 2 men 1+ hour of non-stop wrestling to get the sail out. Once refurled it is stuck again.

Selden had a replacement gearbox and tensioned luffspar upgrade which I have a Selden Rep looking for in Spain.

If parts are NOT available, is it possible to turn it into a Hanked on mast?

Thanks

Spindrift NH · 20-08-2023, 07:50

I recently abandoned my hyde streamstay in mast furling system and converted to a tides track for slab reefing. I’ve yet to order a new sail for it so not in use yet but still will be better than fighting an old in mast system.
I closed up the slot with 3/16 aluminum plate riveted to the mast then added the track.

**TrentePieds** · 20-08-2023, 08:04

Not only is it possible to convert. It would IMO be a very sensible thing to do.

If I were in your shoes, I would compare carefully the cost of repairing what you have against the cost of converting to a conventional main. Even if the reversion to a conventional main turns out to be more expensive than repairing what you have, you should, IMO, consider doing so.

I have no way of knowing if the Kemp system's mast is identical in cross-section to the Selden system's. IF it is, then immediately to port of the slot for the sail is a cove. If that is so, and if the cove's dimensions permit the use of "off the shelf" "slugs" which you can buy at any good chandlers, the conversion should be relatively easy, the only tricky part being the provision of a sheave in the mast crane - the "cap" to the mast - for taking the halyard.

My boat, a Fraser 30, has also been injured by a previous owner installing mast furling. I cope, but had I more years before me than I do, I would certainly re-rig her.

Mast furling is absolutely not necessary in a Vancouver27. For the vast majority of "use cases" it just makes life unnecessarily difficult.

If you decide to convert, I think you could do many, many people on the forum a great favour if you would let us accompany you on that journey by posting "progress reports" as your planning and the work progress.

All the best.

TrentePieds

sepharad · 20-08-2023, 08:24

Would a rigger know if the cross section is the same Kemp/Selden?

**s/v Jedi** · 20-08-2023, 08:31

In-mast furling is a path of tears. There’s no good solution but conversion to slab reefing with a fully battened main and lazy jacks is the best you can make of it. You still have the big bulky mast obstructing air flow but a new mast isn’t always available (hurricane damaged boats often have intact masts)

Spindrift NH · 20-08-2023, 08:48

As for cost, trouble shooting my now abandoned in mast:
new sail, $2,700
new swivel, $1,100
new tension cable, $500
new wire to rope furling line, $200
new track car on boom, the old one was dragging, $600
total: $5,100 and it still didn’t work.

conversion cost:
Tides track with slides w/4 batten slides, $1,800
aluminum for slot, $700
misc tools and rivets, $150
total so far, $2,650
though I did have yard costs and still have to buy a sail. Wish I had skipped messing with the old pos and put my money into the conversion long ago

NYSail · 20-08-2023, 09:05

My first few times with my in mast system were tough. Although once I figured out the workings I have never had an issue and love it. Items I found were necessary.
-No prebend in mast…..
-Tension on out haul when furling in
-Boom has to be angled up
-main halyard correctly tensioned

On my mast which is a US Spar, it was built with a slot so I have the option to move to a traditional main if I wanted which is nice.

Good luck

gonesail · 20-08-2023, 09:10

i sailed with a guy that had in boom furling. if you furled it just right .. with 2 people and a supervisor .. it worked. if not you were in for trouble.

Chotu · 20-08-2023, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYSail

My first few times with my in mast system were tough. Although once I figured out the workings I have never had an issue and love it. Items I found were necessary.
-No prebend in mast…..
-Tension on out haul when furling in
-Boom has to be angled up
-main halyard correctly tensioned

On my mast which is a US Spar, it was built with a slot so I have the option to move to a traditional main if I wanted which is nice.

Good luck

I have to agree. They’re not all bad. I guess when they are bad they are the worst however.

My last monohull had it. 50ft boat. Never a problem, singlehanded. It made everything easy. I don’t think it was great for sail shape, but other than that it was sure simple to use.

George_SD · 20-08-2023, 09:40

I also have in mast furling and agree that if everything is adjusted and in good shape - it works well and is a lot easier to manage than a traditional one. However, when it doesn't work - it's the worst thing. I had to troubleshoot and get very acquainted with all of the parts on my Z-spar system to ensure that it was lubricated and tensioned right. Because of the in-mast furling, the sail is not as big and the shape is less than ideal. Yet, even with those shortcomings - it's plenty for the boat and can overpower it.

**TrentePieds** · 20-08-2023, 09:58

Sepharad:

You don't need a rigger to tell you :-) Just look at your mast. If there is a groove running up the mast just to port of the slot where the sail emerges from the mast, that will be the cove.

Let us see two pictures: One of your mast and gooseneck and one taken of the mast alone just a little up from the gooseneck, preferably showing a bit of the sail where it emerges. If there is a cove it will show in those pictures, and then we can go from there.

TP