Outhaul Line Replacement / Splice Help

[Livinchi]

So the outhaul line on my 26' Chrysler is needing replaced. This is the line that connects to the aft clew of the mainsail foot, and goes through the interior of the boom and comes out the bottom of the boom for adjusting sail trim. The line has frayed so I simply want to replace it with a new fresh one. It appears to be 3/8" line, or so.

I am looking for any recommendations, or tips and tricks on how to perform this task correctly the first time.

My initial idea is to purchase the same/similar rope from the marine store, attach the two lines together with a splice of some sort, and pull the new line through the outhaul rigging with the old line. Here are my questions:

1.) What is the best/easiest way to splice the new line end to the old line end so that they will stay attached but not jam in the outhaul rigging while being pulled through?

2.) Do you recommend attaching the new line to the end that comes out the bottom of the boom or the end that attaches to the mainsail?

3.) Anything else I should be looking out for or thinking of?

Thank you for reading and for any help!

[Suijin]

I use electrical tape. Two long parallel strips to connect the two lines end to end, then wrap the assembly with a spiral wrap. As for which end to use does not matter, which ever is easier.

[thomm225]

Many non-racers don't even worry about the outhaul

Just hook the tack to the goose neck or whatever attachment you have there at the mast and tie the clew to the end of the boom after pulling the foot of the sail tight

[UNCIVILIZED]

Plan A:
Use the old outhaul line to pull a piece of leader line, 3-5mm cord through the boom, over the various sheaves, with plenty of extra cord hanging out any entry & exit points. Then tie the leader cord through a reeving splice that you've put into the end of the new outhaul rope, & use it to pull the new outhaul through the boom, starting at the boom's butt (clew) end). It should run pretty smoothly as compared to a taped or sewn connection between 2 full sized lines.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ing+Eye+Splice

It's a good idea to put reeving splices into the tail ends of all of your reefing lines & halyards, as with them, pulling the halyards or reefing lines for inspection or replacement only takes 2-3 minutes each. And it doesn't take but 5 min. each to put in a reeving splice.


Plan B:
Tightly whip the ends of both the new line & the old one. Then sew their ends together, butt to butt, followed by spiral wrapping the joint with electrical tape fairly snugly. After that, start feeding the new line in via the clew end, as that sheave will probably be the biggest hurdle to reeving the new line.

[Livinchi]

Thank you guys for the replies and advice!

Suijin Regarding simply using electrical tape - I love how easy this option sounds, and all I would need is the new line and tape. My concern is that the 2 pieces come apart inside the boom due to the tape slipping off or becoming jammed in a pulley inside there. If that were to happen I would likely have to take the boom apart to run the new line I am guessing.

thomm225 Regarding just tying the clew to the boom - It does make sense that non-racers would do this because there really is no need to fiddle with the outhaul while just cruising around the lake. I have not used the outhaul for sail adjustment, so I would not miss it. However I would like to replace what is there, instead of feeling like I am down-grading the boat in any way. I also do not want to cut any corners, since this is practice for maintaining a much nicer more expensive sailboat someday... This is great advice for repairing the outhaul on the fly very easily. Also, if I do decide to go sailing this weekend before replacing the line I can secure it that way so that if the current outhaul line does break the sail will stay tightly attached to the boom...

uncivilized - Those sound like by the book methods for replacing lines. Thank you for pointing out the extra benefits of having reeving splices on the ends of your lines for inspecting them easily. From the outside the reeving splice looks a little tricky, but you said it only takes 5 minutes to make one in the end of a line (Maybe 15 minutes for the first one, 10 for the second, and 5 thereafter I hope). Tightly whipping the ends of the lines and sewing them together was something I read as well while researching this - my question is what kind of thread and needle should I use for this? Also - what kind of thread and needle would you use to cross-stitch the splice for the last step of the reeving splice?

It's funny how confident I am cut,drill, or fabricate most kinds of metal,wood, or plastic for the house,car, or boat - but SEWING!? intimidated now...

[Red Sky]

Uncivilized's plan "B" is the way to go.

[SVRocinante]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

[U]
Plan B:
Tightly whip the ends of both the new line & the old one. Then sew their ends together, butt to butt, followed by spiral wrapping the joint with electrical tape fairly snugly. After that, start feeding the new line in via the clew end, as that sheave will probably be the biggest hurdle to reeving the new line.

That's the way to do it!
Just replaced ALL my running rigging earlier this year and it went smooth as silk!
Not a single jam or lost line... it might take a bit longer to do it this way, but it makes it just about foolproof!

Good luck,

[Jim Cate]

my question is what kind of thread and needle should I use for this? Also - what kind of thread and needle would you use to cross-stitch the splice for the last step of the reeving splice?

g'Day Livinchi,

First, I've been using the whip/sew method for decades. It is quick and easy, is much more flexible than any of the taping methods (less hang up rounding sheaves) and you need to whip the ends of the line anyhow! (BTW, I disagree that you should tape the sewn joint. Not necessary, and makes the joint stiffer)

You will need some waxed sail twine,which should be available at any chandlery, and a sail needle big enough to accept the size twine that you purchase. Twine often has a needle packed with the spool, but if not, the chandlery will have them too. While you are at it, get a sailmakers palm, too. You will need all of this stuff on a regular basis throughout your time as a sailor, so might as well get started! Don't know where you are located, but Worst Marine has all of this stuff...

The reeving splice is a good one to learn, but really, the sewing method works with all kinds of line, and the reeving splice is not meant for three strand or other laid lines.

Marlinspike work is kinda fun, and will be useful in a lot of ways beyond these simple tasks, so don't let your non-familiarity with "sewing" scare you off!

Jim

[Livinchi]

Well gentleman, thanks to your recommendations it appears I am going to learn how to whip and sew! I know I stitched on a few buttons back in school, how hard could it be.

I believe I have found sufficient instructions and videos showing at least 2 different methods of performing a "Sailmaker's Whip" that I can duplicate.

What I cannot seem to find are any instructions on how to sew the two ends together, or marry them together. Basically, we just need to attach the two lines securely without creating any obstructions in the splice that could get hung up, right? I believe I can figure this out on my own, just poke through one line and then through the other repeatedly, (from behind the whip or through the whip, or both?)

I know it just needs to hold tight and work smoothly for less than a minute while the new line is pulled through, and there is more than 1 way to skin a cat... I just want to do it right!

Thanks again all!

[SVRocinante]

I’m not sure if it’s the “right” way to do,it, but I simply butted the two whipped ends together then ran a stitch vertically from behind the whipped portion and then a second at 90° around from the first. Worked.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Livinchi

thomm225 Regarding just tying the clew to the boom - It does make sense that non-racers would do this because there really is no need to fiddle with the outhaul while just cruising around the lake. I have not used the outhaul for sail adjustment, so I would not miss it. However I would like to replace what is there, instead of feeling like I am down-grading the boat in any way. I also do not want to cut any corners, since this is practice for maintaining a much nicer more expensive sailboat someday... This is great advice for repairing the outhaul on the fly very easily. Also, if I do decide to go sailing this weekend before replacing the line I can secure it that way so that if the current outhaul line does break the sail will stay tightly attached to the boom...
Look at how some of the ends of modern (& older) synthetic rope rigging is tensioned. Using multiple passes of small diameter spectra/dyneema is quite the norm for this, & while you'd have minor trouble adjusting the tension when the sail's full, otherwise it's quite easy to do.
www.colligomarine.com

uncivilized - Those sound like by the book methods for replacing lines. Thank you for pointing out the extra benefits of having reeving splices on the ends of your lines for inspecting them easily. From the outside the reeving splice looks a little tricky, but you said it only takes 5 minutes to make one in the end of a line (Maybe 15 minutes for the first one, 10 for the second, and 5 thereafter I hope).
With a reeving splice, all you're really doing is removing a bit of core from the line & then tucking the end of the line's cover back inside of itself in order to form a loop. After which you lock stitich the loop in place by sewing through all of the layers.
Once you've done one, or seen one done you'll do a face palm with regards to their simplicity. Perhaps watching a video on youtube would help you?

The reality is, that once you've done one or two of these, they tend to be as quick or quicker to do than whipping the ends of two individual pieces of line, & then sewing their butt ends together.

Tightly whipping the ends of the lines and sewing them together was something I read as well while researching this
I previously typed the word tightly in bold, as you want to make sure that the core & cover of the line don't slip when the stitching securing the butted ends of the 2 lines comes under load. But even just a number of multiple passes through the jacket alone is in theory & practice, enough to suffice.

You can even pull 6" out of the core at the end of both lines to be used, sew the covers onto the cores in each respective line, & then simply sew the two pieces of line jacket ends together by overlapping them, & sewing though this juncture throughout it's length.

- my question is what kind of thread and needle should I use for this? Also - what kind of thread and needle would you use to cross-stitch the splice for the last step of the reeving splice?
Any needle that fits the thread you're using should be fine, though I tend to use one's that are pretty stout, like sailmaker's needles. The sort that you often use with a sailmaker's palm, sometimes along with a punch or awl (when doing heavy work on sails or leather), & a pair of pliers to pull them through once the tip makes itself seen on the other side.

Threadwise, Jim Cate's tips are good. And I've also used:
- A length of the tow which makes up doublebraid line (1-2mm thick bundles of the yarns compoosing ropes).
- Braided fishing line
- Dental floss
- Heavy duty thread for sewing outdoor gear like backpacks
- Any other field expedient "thread", particularly if it's somewhat UV resistant, & or, is waxed.

Speaking of wax, it wouldn't hurt to pick up a cake of beeswax, though a candle will do in a pinch. One thing that it assists with is keeping the fibers whch make up a thread stuck together, & evenly tensioned while you're pulling them though things while sewing. Since with thicker threads, if the load is bourne overly much by only some of the strands which comprise the thread (or bundle of them), then those under the most load will fail first, & the others may follow suit in a zipper like effect. Although this is pretty dang rare when stitching up splices. Particularly if you regularly inspect your splices for things like UV & chafe damage.

In terms of stitch patterns, when doing them by hand, I usually just pass the needle back & forth through the splice multiple times, going a little bit past it on both ends. And then put three or more stitches atop one another, & then sew through the length of the splice in the opposite direction. Repeating as needed, or as long as it's meditative for me

It's funny how confident I am cut,drill, or fabricate most kinds of metal,wood, or plastic for the house,car, or boat - but SEWING!? intimidated now...

.....

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Livinchi

thomm225 Regarding just tying the clew to the boom - It does make sense that non-racers would do this because there really is no need to fiddle with the outhaul while just cruising around the lake. I have not used the outhaul for sail adjustment, so I would not miss it. However I would like to replace what is there, instead of feeling like I am down-grading the boat in any way. I also do not want to cut any corners, since this is practice for maintaining a much nicer more expensive sailboat someday... This is great advice for repairing the outhaul on the fly very easily. Also, if I do decide to go sailing this weekend before replacing the line I can secure it that way so that if the current outhaul line does break the sail will stay tightly attached to the boom.....

Sometimes it's more trouble than it's worth to fix something you never use especially if the system isn't so great to begin with

I do understand your point though because many cruisers and sailors seem to enjoy the repairs as much as they do the sailing.

I have my new mainsail clew tied to the end of my boom and it's been this way for six years except when I remove it for the coldest Winter Months.

On some of my racing boats that I single handed, I'd also tie off the outhaul adjustment because (especially during buoy races) after bringing down the spinnaker and then adjusting the main sheet, main traveler, mast rotation, main downhaul, and pushing the daggerboards back down (all this while getting back out on the trapeze) I'd any times leave the outhaul at the same spot that I set it at before leaving the beach

[Rbrucek]

I use dental flos to sew the ends together. The good electrical tape. Dental floss is really strong.

[wcapital]

IMHO only ignorant or callous sailors - racing or not - don't even worry about the outhaul! Not only is sail shape important to adjust for different points of sail and wind directions - for better control as well as speed - but it's better for the life of the sail to not be tensioned all the time.....

Originally Posted by thomm225

Many non-racers don't even worry about the outhaul

Just hook the tack to the goose neck or whatever attachment you have there at the mast and tie the clew to the end of the boom after pulling the foot of the sail tight

[YPSILANTI]

Uncivilized plan B is the way to go. Google you tube. excellent footage on "How to." Easy when you view it. Good luck.