Pulling Perkins M20 - Few questions

[chowdan]

Hey everyone,

I've been debating about pulling my Perkins M20 from the boat to work on while the boat is in the water. I have a few questions regarding how to pull it.

The first question being, do you pull it with the transmission or without? What is the reasoning behind the decision?

If you pull just the engine without the tranny, how do you support the transmission from the weight? I believe my tranny is just bolted onto the engine and doesn't have any feet of any sort.

Since my engine is seized, I am not looking to make use of it for atleast 6-9months and am going to just make use of the outboard on the back. If i pull the engine and transmission, how do i prevent the shaft from just sliding out a bit or even just from spinning when sitting in a current? I'd hate to have the boat just be sitting in a current and watching the shaft just go nuts and spinning like mad.

If the transmission is pulled, do I need to worry about leaks of any sort?

I'll probably raise the end of the boom to be over the companion way hatch and build a block and tackle setup to hang down to lift out the engine so that I can use the mast/boom as a "crane" so to speak(along with a few friends to stablize the engine itself). This seems like it'd give less stress to the rig/boom than having a halyard from the mast top to the middle of the boom where a block/tackle would hang. Seems like all that weight on the middle of the boom, even with supportting halyards is too much? I am not going to be paying for a fork lift or any other cranes to lift it out, if i cant do it with mast/boom, its going to be done by hand then.

Thanks!

[Steven UK]

Chowdan I don't have a lot of experience with the marine installation but I'm sure I remember these engines in the PERKINS factory in Peterborough when I was visiting on larger machine engine business. That engine is small if I were in your position I would remove the easily accessible ancillaries ( starter, alternator, gbox, flywheel, and even the head if you wanted) what's left shouldn't be too much for you and a friend or two or the halyard over the boom. People use the halyard to pull themselves up the mast and for that I would want much more safety margin than an engine. Sounds like you have time on your hands.

Let us know how you faired as I'm half interested to go the 'fixer upper' route....

[captjcook]

I had no problem using my halyard to lift m30 with trans off the dock and set it down on the sole through the companionway. I had two friends help, took like 5 minutes or less and cost me a 12 pack...had a line to engine so two could control swing...easy!
Leave the shaft coupling on as it won't allow shaft to slip out and a clamp (large vise grip) on the coupler (not on shaft!!) spacer if you like to approx. setback. You might pull the prop if you intend to sail much, then you would need a shaft collar or spacer and replace prop nut that it does not slide in...good luck with your rebuild!

[chowdan]

Very much appreciated everyone! I've got the cylinder head, exhaust/heat exchanger, and water pump off the engine right now. I'm planning on pulling the alternator off as well.

I guess i didn't look at the halyard as the weak point in the system, i was more thinking about the weakpoint being the boom. 100-150lbs on the high end weighing down either on the middle of the boom or at the tip, extending the weight down to the boom to mast joint being the major concerns

@Steven - I would suggest getting an idea of the state of the engine BEFORE pulling the trigger, if you have the funds, get a mechanic to take a look(or if the buyer lets you do the work even better). If you look at my post you'll see that mine from the exterior wasn't bad, but i was too cheap to hire a mechanic to take a look and give advice. I knew the engine wasn't turning over, and the battery was good, but that was all I knew. After tearing off the head, I found out why it wasn't turning over. Heres a link to my other post

[deblen]

We had no trouble lifting our complete VP 2003 with a block & tackle per pic. Your Perkins 2 cyl is lighter even before you removed the cyl. head & accessories. Suggest you leave gearbox on engine. You can remove it on the workbench & inspect it then.
a couple of 8ft 2x4 s spiked together & lashed on edge to top of boom would stiffen it.

Cheers/ Len

[tdoster]

I have done this more times than I can count and always in the water.

1. Pull the entire engine as a whole. It makes it easier once out to have everything together.

2. The gearbox comes out with the engine. They are a pain to separate in the boat. Only disconnect the electrical, exhaust, plumbing, coupling, etc.

3. When you disconnect the shaft coupler, hang the shaft using blocks, hanger, etc. to the approximate height it was if the shaft is more than a couple of feet from the stuffing box.

4. The boom is adequate for pulling the engine. Make sure to use all available halyards to support it, and especially at the point where the come along is attached. You just have to be creative and take your time to get it out of the boat and onto the dock. Easiest is to have the boat towed to a yard after the engine is on deck and crane it from the deck to truck, but in a pinch and with a marina that allows it, you can swing it out from the boom to a dolly on dock.

5. I prefer the nylon come alongs over the cables. They are rated for the same weight, but the nylon straps don't mar the brightwork or get pin pricked by the strands on the ends. $40 at any home improvement shop.

6. While the engine is out, it is always a good time to just replace the engine mounts.

7. Video removing any connectors, bolts, etc. along with tape tagging. Even if you have done it a few times, it is easy to forget what went where. when you can see the video of the before, during and after, it makes the job that much easier.

[donradcliffe]

If you are worried about the strength of the boom, run the halyard through a snatch block which is loosely lashed to mid-boom (I used one of the reefing lines and a sail tie).

[tdoster]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

If you are worried about the strength of the boom, run the halyard through a snatch block which is loosely lashed to mid-boom (I used one of the reefing lines and a sail tie).

I would say not "worried" as this should be a rule, not an exception.

The halyard should always go to the attach point on the boom where it is being hoisted so the halyard is taking most of the weight, not the boom.

And I will always use every available halyard.

Also, attach the other end of the halyard to the forward cleats, so the cleats, compression on the mast and the halyard(s) themselves are taking the brunt of the weight.

[Steven UK]

Now that was a constructive thread...