Re-rigging. T-Terminal swaged or swageless or replace?

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by double u

can't find it on their webpage...

You may have to email or phone.... they are a bit of a speciality item.....

Tell 'em Dave and Ping from Chile sent you....

[El Pinguino]

And this is what you are looking for... more or less...
'
1x Set Single S/S Tang assembly 5/8” Pin – 20mm Cross Bolt to suit section 130mm wide £ 493.11 + Vat ( Internal compression tube not included )
2x Extended – Compression Eyes to suit 5/8” pin £ 187.04 Pair + Vat '

Your sizing may vary......

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by boat_alexandra

I met several boats in various places waiting on a new mast because they had used stainless steel standing rigging.

Don't use stainless for rigging as it fails unpredictably and must replaced every 10 years. Instead bronze, galvanized, dynnema are all good options and can outlive you.

I met a guy in south africa who had the original galvanized wire from 1968 he had installed when he built his boat.

I've met THOUSANDS of boats in various places who were NOT waiting on a new mast because their stainless rigging was sound and functional. Condemning stainless because a really tiny fraction of s/s rigs fail is pretty silly. Sure, it ain't forever, but neither is galvo in most installations, and Dyneema seems to have some aging issues as well.

Some insurers require s/s wire to be replaced at ten year intervals. I believe some insurers will not insure galvanized rigs at all. I don't know what they say about Dyneema or other non-metallic rigging, but I bet they don't say it is eternal!

Jim

[El Pinguino]

The wire isn't the problem... it's the terminations...

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

The wire isn't the problem... it's the terminations...

As I well know, Ping!

Note that this Norseman T-ball was 26 years and >100,000 miles old. It and it's mates have been replaced now.

Jim

[double u]

thx El Ping"
btw: "...Don't use stainless for rigging ...": if you just follow this line of thinking long enough with all consequences - - you'll end up hanging yourself in the woods & for sure with a hemp rope...

[Emmalina]

Just looked in the Hi-Mod cat. no T balls in there... As the norsemen we used last time are supposed to nead new cones we are gonna try Hi-Mod peterson swageless this time !

[double u]

these are the ones with this clever former that prevents a strand slipping into the slit of the cone!

[UNCIVILIZED]

T-terminals are notorious for failing with little to no warning, even when oversized. Something which has been common knowledge amongst racers for several decades. A trait of note that often draws comments to such effect (unsolicited ones). Such as when I called Brion Toss, & several other riggers of note, when trying to track down some fittings for Ann & Jim Cate. Though this characteristic wasn't news to me, having seen several fail over the years. Usually in the region in the fitting where Ann & Jim's did.

I'd suggest reconfiguring things in the standard setup. Where you have a compression tube welded transversely into the mast tube, & add a doubler plate overtop of it. In order to beef things up to account for any weakening of the aluminum due to the fasteners, compression tubes, & welding strength losses.
Followed by hanging a tang off of an oversized bolt placed through the compression tube. And then adding a conventionally toggled stay, configured with mechanical end terminals.

There's an example of a compression tube & doubler configuration at the Cal40.com website, here http://www.cal40.com/files/TEMP001.pdf


Plan B would be to use some of the Dux tangs, & their synthetic rigging.

Though if you have a few days/a week to spare, pick up Brion Toss's books, as well as a few others on rigging. So that you can evaluate a few more options, even if some of them might be a bit retro (& often cheaper). To possibly even entertain poured sockets. About which there's plenty of info in lots of non-nautical locations. Though Ross Norgrove penned a good section or two on their use on boats, along with older wire types

[double u]

I wouldn't go so far as to condemn all T-bar terminals (on our first rtw they outlasted the 7year-40000nm trip, swaged ones at that). I think the key is the backing plate: if there is any sort of bending load on the corner at the T failure is much more likely than if the backingplate forces the T in as far as it will go so the load is in the very corner of the terminal

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by double u

I wouldn't go so far as to condemn all T-bar terminals (on our first rtw they outlasted the 7year-40000nm trip, swaged ones at that). I think the key is the backing plate: if there is any sort of bending load on the corner at the T failure is much more likely than if the backingplate forces the T in as far as it will go so the load is in the very corner of the terminal

I lost my mast when one failed at 8 years and maybe 30K miles ...... you never knows when ones going to go....

When doing the rig in 2013 4 of the 6 backing plates were found to be cracked....

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

..........

I'd suggest reconfiguring things in the standard setup. Where you have a compression tube welded transversely into the mast tube, & add a doubler plate overtop of it. In order to beef things up to account for any weakening of the aluminum due to the fasteners, compression tubes, & welding strength losses.
Followed by hanging a tang off of an oversized bolt placed through the compression tube. And then adding a conventionally toggled stay, configured with mechanical end terminals.

There's an example of a compression tube & doubler configuration at the Cal40.com website, here http://www.cal40.com/files/TEMP001.pdf
.........

That is pretty much exactly what I am currently doing to mine....

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

To possibly even entertain poured sockets. About which there's plenty of info in lots of non-nautical locations. Though Ross Norgrove penned a good section or two on their use on boats, along with older wire types

I am fairly familiar with these as there are a lot of them used on drill rigs. 100% wire strength and you can pour them yourself. I found a procedure for preparing SS wire for zinc socketing as used by the US navy. I thought of having some sockets machined from SS to test out an epoxy socketing material called Socketfast but have never gotten around to it - too many other experiments going on.