Reel Winch with Vectran?

[Pendragon35]

I have a 1965 Alberg 35 with a wire main halyard led outside the mast to a reel wrench. Yes, I know all about the dangers of this type of winch, so it's not necessary to discuss those in comments. My question is: could I replace the wire with like like Vectran and still have it led to that winch ? I know I would need different sheaves at the top of the mast.

[Pauls]

Why not? A winch that can handle steel wire can handle the high strength ropes just as well.

[Stumble]

It depends. Is the base of the drum grooved for wire? In which case you could probably switch to rope, but you would need to get a smooth drum, or have the one you are using smoothed out. At a minimum if you really want to do this I would have the smooth drum polished to remove any burs or sharps.

Frankly yes I think you could, but I think it would be easier to install a winch instead.

As for rope, I wouldn't use vectran, it is very unstable in UV. I would recommend a solid dyneema line.

[Jim Cate]

As for rope, I wouldn't use vectran, it is very unstable in UV. I would recommend a solid dyneema line.

Agreed! Twelve strand Dyneema 75 will do very nicely in this application, and is somewhat less expensive than Vectran. Do polish out any sharp edges that the line might encounter anywhere between masthead and the winch drum..

Jim

[Pendragon35]

Thanks for the advice! I'll have to take a look at the drum more carefully.

[roverhi]

Your masthead sheaves should be fine as long as they don't have any burrs, etc. that could chafe the rope. A little work with a file and/or sandpaper should take care of this problem.

I've switched out wire halyards for larger diameter dacron sheathed line without problems in many thousands of miles of ocean sailing.

[thunderhoof]

I don't like leading unjacketed Dyneema to a winch. If you know splicing or someone who does consider a hybrid solution.
You need enough 12 strand Dyneema to reach from the main head at your lowest reef point over the block at the mast head to a few turns around the winch (1). Then get enough jacketed polyester yacht braid yacht so that full hoist of the main you can cover the Dyneema from above the winch with the cover and also extend the line length in condition (1) an extra six feet or so for line handling. Then do an end to end end splice between the yacht braid core and the Dyneema. Slide the jacket over the splice until it is positioned for condition (1). The proper way to finish this is to bury the jacket in the Dyneema on the hoist side and put a Flemish eye in the end of the jacket for reeving. This approach gets the job done for a lower cost than using jacketed Dyneema.
BTW I like using a luggage tag splice at the shackle end. Trivial to do in 12 strand. It is very strong and it allows you to change shackles.
Anything is better than wire halyards. Remember when the Brits used mild steel for halyards? These created fishhooks with each use.

[thunderhoof]

OOPS. re above post:
Rather than an additional 6 feet or so you will need enough length so the sail can be fully lowered, probably another 15 - 20 ft.

[Jim Cate]

thunderhoof, when the OP is using a reel type winch, w hat is the advantage of using a cover on part of the halyard? To me it just looks to add to the bulk of the line on the winch. Am I missing something?

Jim

[roverhi]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

thunderhoof, when the OP is using a reel type winch, w hat is the advantage of using a cover on part of the halyard? To me it just looks to add to the bulk of the line on the winch. Am I missing something?

Jim

Had the same question.

[switepine]

Pardon my ignorance but What is a reel winch and why is it dangerous? I have a 65 allied 30 with a odd winch

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by switepine

Pardon my ignorance but What is a reel winch and why is it dangerous? I have a 65 allied 30 with a odd winch

The line wraps around the drum under preassure and is stored wrapped around the central drum. They were common decades ago when wire halyards were the only low stretch option, and were colloquially known as arm breakers. Mostly because when you released the load to ease the halyard the winch handle would spin backwards and break your forearm.

Worse the brakes could fail suddenly for no good reason and start wailing off on crew, equipment, the boat... these things are dangerously and best relegated to the scrap yard.


There is no need for covers on reel winches, you never touch the wire/rope after all, and the only need for a cover I sail for handling.

[thunderhoof]

I guess you guys are right about a jacketed line not needed on a reel winch but I don't like the answer. Because the line is dead ended at the winch and friction on the drum is not required it may work OK. However, 12 strand may not stack up well on the drum under load. It will be interesting to find out

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by thunderhoof

I guess you guys are right about a jacketed line not needed on a reel winch but I don't like the answer. Because the line is dead ended at the winch and friction on the drum is not required it may work OK. However, 12 strand may not stack up well on the drum under load. It will be interesting to find out

It works fine on reel drums. Most of the tug fleet, fishing fleet, and almost all of the rock crawlers use dyneema on drums. I feel anything it works better since for the same amount of line on the drum it layes flatter, meaning less torque on the brake.

[UNCIVILIZED]

IIRC commercial cranes use 12-strand on their drums, as to commercial & Naval vessels on their capstans, so...