Removing polysulfide caulking from old Norseman fittings

[Ryban]

I'm re-rigging our Westsail 32 and am try to use all the old Norseman terminals, since they're in great shape, and I got a bunch of new cones for them.

My only snag is that I'd like to clean out all the old caulking inside the terminals without introducing a bunch of scratches from a screw driver. Is there a simple solvent that will help me out here?

[nuku34]

No solvent I know of. You might try heating one of the parts just to see if that makes the caulking easier to remove. Heat below red hot will not damage the stainless. Cleaning with a small metal wire brush and/or small pointed ice-pick type of instrument is necessary. Scratches on the inside of the fittings will not make any difference to holding power, but you really do need to get all the old caulking out.

[SVTatia]

Are you sure it is PS? Try "tenderizing" them in a bucket with mineral spirits for a couple'f days. Then lacquer thinner.
This is only the second use I have for a NEUTRAL silicone onboard (first one is around galley fiddles), why would anyone use anything else?

[Bowdrie]

If the sealant is a Polyurethane, like 4200/5200, diesel fuel will soften it.
With Polysulfide you'll want something stronger, like a good penetrating oil, (the miracle penetrant is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF).
Soak the fittings overnight, or a day.
Go to a gun store and find shotgun cleaning brushes for the job, you can turn them by hand, or chuck in a drill motor.
You'll sacrifice a brush or three, but they're cheap.

[Ryban]

Good suggestions guys.

I'm not sure if it's polysulfide, but I don't think it's ordinary silicone either. I'm operating under the assumption it's polysulfide as that's what many people seem to be putting in their terminals, and that's what we're using as well this time around.

I've tried soaking in acetone for several days, and a JABCO paint stripper for 15-30 minutes. Not sure I noticed an appreciable difference. I will try diesel to see if it's a polurethane. I'll also try mineral spirits and lacquer thinner as I have both handy.

I've also used a stainless steel wire brush on a dremel tool for the places I can get to, and it works well. I recently ordered some brass wire pipe cleaners of various sizes and am going to try those tonight.

[Training Wheels]

Anti-bond

[GordMay]

PolyGone #310-AG fully removes cured polysulfide sealant
➥ https://rpm-technology.com/product-l...lygone-310-ag/

[rak]

MEK works best

[Ryban]

I ended up getting some brass pipe cleaners and sticking them into my drill chuck. Works like a charm. A little brass "pencil" brush for a rotary tool is also good for getting some of the nooks cleaned out.

I did notice that maybe I won't be able to re-use the a few of the terminals, as they have indentations on the walls from the old wires. They must have been cranked down hard, or under a lot of load at some point.

[Manateeman]

When you get the insides cleaned up, the marks will be easier to examine. You might find it’s just a metallic stain from the difference in the composition of the wire and the fitting...OR...water has actually pitted the contact area...in which case, you now have a surface which will begin to corrode more quickly than other parts of the fitting. It’s the thread damage which is of greater concern.
These fittings are incredibly strong and the interiors should polish up well.
After cleaning, take them to a machine shop and ask what they see.
New cones...nice. If you can find a new fitting, a good machinist will have a reference point, but they inspect and measure parts all day and we find they are worth paying for their time.
Happy trails to you.
The manatee crew.