Replacing Blocks with Low Friction Rings

[janders]

Hey kids, hanging around racer friends has introduced me to Antal low friction rings as an option to route lines instead of a turning block. Friction rings tend to cost around $15-$20/ea as opposed to the $ that good blocks cost.



8:1 purchase using rings:


What I'm particularly interested in doing is splicing Amsteel (I got a ton of Amsteel offcuts from the boat show at a smoking price) onto the ring into a loop.





I can think of tons of uses for this but our immediate uses would be:

* running the lines for a new boom brake
* barber hauler - and particularly when in light wind and swell adding a dockline snubber to the attached line to soften the impact of slatting sails
* re-routing our dinghy davit lines so one person can lift/lower both lines at a time
* leading our spinnaker tack line back to the cockpit
* routing a sheet for a riding sail

Does anyone here have experience with these rings? Anyone have a link to instructions on how to splice an amsteel loop on to them?

Thanks!

Jason

[S/V Alchemy]

No, but I've considered these rings and splices for much the same thing. I like the idea of them as fairleads for furling lines.

[SV Demeter]

Originally Posted by janders

Hey kids, hanging around racer friends has introduced me to Antal low friction rings as an option to route lines instead of a turning block. Friction rings tend to cost around $15-$20/ea as opposed to the $ that good blocks cost.



8:1 purchase using rings:


What I'm particularly interested in doing is splicing Amsteel (I got a ton of Amsteel offcuts from the boat show at a smoking price) onto the ring into a loop.





I can think of tons of uses for this but our immediate uses would be:

* running the lines for a new boom brake
* barber hauler - and particularly when in light wind and swell adding a dockline snubber to the attached line to soften the impact of slatting sails
* re-routing our dinghy davit lines so one person can lift/lower both lines at a time
* leading our spinnaker tack line back to the cockpit
* routing a sheet for a riding sail

Does anyone here have experience with these rings? Anyone have a link to instructions on how to splice an amsteel loop on to them?

Thanks!

Jason

I dont have experience with them yet but am planning to build a 12:1 boom vang with these. I got rid of the big clunky rigid vang that blocked my hatch and was going to splice amsteel jsut as you suggest. I dont know why you would not just use a simple brummel eye splice just the same as you would on any other singel braid application like a thimble? Thats my plan anyway.

Splicing link here:

New England Ropes - Splicing Guide

[Capt.Don]

I was (and still may) use for the tackline on our asyo.

[svTOTEM]

Yes, these rings are simple, work well for many applications, and affordable - especially for blue water cruising. Blocks with bearing wear from salt grinding in them. Splicing Dyneema or Dynes Dux is very easy. Colligo has excellent video to get you going - http://www.colligomarine.com/ - and this http://l-36.com/articles.php?menu=2 has good info on making soft shackles and putting them to good use.

[Target9000]

What are the downsides to these rings? Do they chafe the lines more so than a block? Is it as easy to haul on the lines?

[svTOTEM]

Haven’t experienced any chafe issues. Under load, there is more friction than compared to a block with bearings (in good condition and free of salt/dirt). In a turning block application, such as a barberhauler, difference is insignificant because it’s not noticeably harder to winch in. I haven’t tried any multi part application like vang – and suspect that at some number of turns friction would become too much.

[Capt.Don]

Thinking about these again for replacing the tackline - does anyone have guidelines for the size of the ring? For example, if running 3/8" or 1/2" line, about 120 degree lead, would the 20mm R20.14 (3/4" ID) the right size? I'm assuming the way to size these is to go one size larger than the line and/or based on SWL (3200lbs).

Thanks for the links on splicing dyneema - I may do that to have the proper length!
Don

[Pacey16]

I have had them as guides for furling line for 2 yrs now, work great and look neat.

[Benz]

These are great! I wouldn't use them for a long run of line under load (i.e. main halyard), but they're great fairleads, and for running backstays. The best method of attaching dyneema to them would be to splice a loop (like the picture suggests) that can be girth-hitched anywhere. The loop is easy to change out when it shows wear. You can also use a soft shacke (directions for that at Colligo website), or simply lash them with small cord. As long as the line fits through easily, the fairlead is big enough.

[barnakiel]

Yes. But watch when you load such a rig. I have seen such rings cut by a loaded Spectra line.

They are more use for changing the line's run at moderate angles, keeping the line of other equipment, etc..

When used as a purchase you must observe the loads. Friction is an issue too unless you run bare Spectra (which again happens to dislike tight turns).

Etc.

You can also use plain derlin (delrin?) or SS to achieve similar results.

b.

[Andrew Troup]

Yes, polished stainless certainly does avoid the "cut by a loaded Spectra line" issue.

Any competent machine shop (even some competent home shops) could oblige.

[pyrocrig]

Originally Posted by Pacey16

I have had them as guides for furling line for 2 yrs now, work great and look neat.

Do you have any pics. This is a very old post I know, but I've been considering lashing some rings to the stanchions rather than the ankle killing stainless pulleys.