Replacing Rigging

[Hugh17]

I am ready to replace the standing rigging on my Seafarer 29 and looking for recommendations from folks who have done this before. A few folks I know have suggested that I do it myself with Stay-Loc or Norseman systems, and while I'm not ruling it out I can't see a significant savings considering I'd have to purchase the tools. I look forward to hearing from you.

James
sv Roma - Seafarer 29

[wgh52]

Hugh - I replaced my standing rigging last year. I happen to be in Miami at the time and had Dam Rigging Dam Rigging all the work. I was very satisfied with Christan's work. Obviously, this is not going to help you unless you have a south bound trip planned. I have off and on kept my boat at Brunswick Landing Marina over the last 10 years (it's my home port). I have heard that there is a rigger located in Jacksonville that comes up to St Simon area.

Good luck.

[brankin]

Originally Posted by wgh52

Hugh - I replaced my standing rigging last year. I happen to be in Miami at the time and had Dam Rigging Dam Rigging all the work. I was very satisfied with Christan's work. Obviously, this is not going to help you unless you have a south bound trip planned. I have off and on kept my boat at Brunswick Landing Marina over the last 10 years (it's my home port). I have heard that there is a rigger located in Jacksonville that comes up to St Simon area.

Good luck.

Christian is a great guy and a great rigger...my two cents worth.

[Sailmonkey]

If you don't already own a hacksaw and a set of combo wrenches, then mechanical terminals may not be for you.

[Quique]

Hello James, if you are taking the mast down to replace the rig you can remove all the wires put them in a box and ship them to one of the companies on the internet.they will send you back new ones with the exact measurements.this will save you a few bucks.

[Hugh17]

@ Wgh52: My home port is St. Simon's Island. I was at Brunswick Landing for 6 years, and GIM for 6. I'm in Savannah now but headed back down to Two-Way Boat Yard to have the boat pulled and the bottom done. I plan to have Charlie drop the mast so I can remove the rigging, then I can send it to someone to have them duplicate it.

[Cruiser2B]

i replaced my Alberg 30's rigging for $1700, new wire, sta-locs top and bottom, turnbuckles and davis wind indicator, took about a week or so working at night to make all the new stays and shrouds.

I doubt you will be able to find someone to do your 29 for less than that.

you only need very basic tools, a few adjustable wrenches, tape measure and a saw

[barnakiel]

For any regular sailing I would chose just plain swaged terminals. Exception for stalok type if the terminal is expected to be dismounted one day (e.g. some jib furlers require stalok/norseman type.

b.

[Cruiser2B]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

For any regular sailing I would chose just plain swaged terminals. Exception for stalok type if the terminal is expected to be dismounted one day (e.g. some jib furlers require stalok/norseman type.

b.

Whats the reasoning behind this? if he buys sta-locs he has the ability to replace, repair his rigging anytime any place.
By the time you add up the cost of the swage terminal and labor for swaging process you are almost at the cost of a sta-loc terminal. i dont see any reason to buy a 1 time use fitting. Please tell me where a swage terminal is a better value?

What is regular sailing?

[Hugh17]

@ Cruiser 2B - That's the kind of advice I need! Thanks a lot. Is there info on your blog as to where you purchased the material? Also, I've very interested in adding a wind vane and wind odometer. Is the Davis Wind Indicator a comparable instrument? I'll check out your blog but appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks!
James

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by Cruiser2B

Whats the reasoning behind this? if he buys sta-locs he has the ability to replace, repair his rigging anytime any place.
By the time you add up the cost of the swage terminal and labor for swaging process you are almost at the cost of a sta-loc terminal. i dont see any reason to buy a 1 time use fitting. Please tell me where a swage terminal is a better value?

What is regular sailing?

1. Here (EU) a swaged terminal with the job done costs me 25 units while a stalok terminal costs me 65 units (new cones, formers and materials/tools included), I can go thru 3 swages before I balance the cost of a stalok,

2. Stalok/norseman can be used for repair provided the stay is long enough, which is often not the case. Toggles can be used to extend but look up prices of quality toggles before you jump. Plates can be used, but these have to be manufactured too.

By regular sailing I understand what 99% of boaters do - get the boat round the cans, on the bay, for a weekend cruise, or at best a for two week holiday.

b.

[Cruiser2B]

Hugh17, I purchased all of my fittings, wire and turnbuckles from Rigging Only.com, their customer service and knowledge was outstanding. And they had very very good prices.

No info on blog yet, i am working on a piece that describes the whole process including makng new chainplates.

Ask any questions you want....

[Hugh17]

@ Cruiser 2B - Thanks for the link. I'll give them a call Monday morning and discuss my options.

[Cruiser2B]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

1. Here (EU) a swaged terminal with the job done costs me 25 units while a stalok terminal costs me 65 units (new cones, formers and materials/tools included), I can go thru 3 swages before I balance the cost of a stalok,

2. Stalok/norseman can be used for repair provided the stay is long enough, which is often not the case. Toggles can be used to extend but look up prices of quality toggles before you jump. Plates can be used, but these have to be manufactured too.

By regular sailing I understand what 99% of boaters do - get the boat round the cans, on the bay, for a weekend cruise, or at best a for two week holiday.

b.

1. When I was compairing prices, a swage terminal here in the US was about $25 and was another 10-20 to swage depending on the wire size. Most of my sta-locs were under $60. so i would spend about 75% of the cost os a sta-loc....dont think I would get 3 buys before i equaled my sta-loc cost.

2. Agreed that the wire would be too short to repair, so you buy new wire. Your method of reasoning Mr. Hugh17 would have no choice buy to buy new wire, swage fitting and labor....and wait for someone else to do it.

Ok, so we kind of agree on regular sailing....wind is wind.... So why would you use a swage fitting over a sta-loc for regular sailing? I do not see how the fitting or sailing would matter. Unless you are saying sta-loc is a better method for more serious conditions and would give Mr Hugh17 a warm and fuzzy that he had a better mechanical fitting for a few bucks more of initial cost...is that what you mean?

[Cruiser2B]

Originally Posted by Hugh17

@ Cruiser 2B - Thanks for the link. I'll give them a call Monday morning and discuss my options.

They will need to know the clevis and turnbuckle sizes to give you an idea on cost. They saved my order and sent it to me over 2 shipments...hey I am a broke sailor.....I ordered all the fitting and then the wire. then shipped it all together.
They even replaced one of my fittings after it siezed during assembly. Within 2 days I had a new fitting. They sent it to me because they forgot to tell me to lube threads....thats a standup company.....great great place to deal with.

FYI, use a small amount of anti sieze or tefgel when doing the preassembly of sta-loc. once that is done, clean the threads and use red loctite as recommended for final assy. The first 1 or 2 are difficult, after you are used to them they take 3-4 mins each to assemble. piece of cake.