Ropework tools

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Wotname

'tis a rare event I reckon



Probably off topic but hey, it's your thread and your question so here goes...

The principle one is procrastinatorwood .

I want to use Huon pine 'cause it's local and just wonderful to work with, to feel and to smell...BUT it is very pale and usually fine grain and without visual wow factor. So thinking to incorporate a contrasting timber like a red Myrtle. Again its local.... BUT its very hard and marrying the two together will make it difficult to finish sand / polish etc due to the vast difference in hardness. Your post has given me cause to think about it some more. Maybe I should try to get hold some Queensland red cedar. It does have a nice deep red colour and is very soft - maybe even softer than Huon pine. While it's not local, I am originally a banana bender so that might allow me to use it . Would be hard to source but might be able to hunt some down in an existing article.

Also thinking of a silver bolster and pommel but first I have to work out how to cast silver and polish it etc. Maybe even a silver inlay...

Maybe never get done if I don't get off CF...

With some woods you can "cheat" when it comes to altering their hardness, by pulling epoxy (or something else) though them with a vacuum. Obviously it changes their color a bit as well, but...

And I've done some sweet handles by stacking various thicknesses & colors/types of wood in a laminate. After which the handle gets shaped. And the various layers make some sweet color patterns at times as the handle is shaved down, depth wise, in various places. Much like when you see the layers in plywood when you bevel it's edges, only more colorful in this case. And you get to control the depth & colors of the layers via how you stack the layup initially.

[nigel1]

I've only used the selma type fids for splicing braid on braid rope, but as others have said, they can get a bit tight.
How do the needles work, I assume that the core or cover is threaded through the eye, does it need to be secured in any way (tape or a small whipping) or does it stay well enough secured?

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Probably off topic but hey, it's your thread and your question so here goes...

The principle one is procrastinatorwood .

I want to use Huon pine 'cause it's local and just wonderful to work with, to feel and to smell...BUT it is very pale and usually fine grain and without visual wow factor. So thinking to incorporate a contrasting timber like a red Myrtle. Again its local.... BUT its very hard and marrying the two together will make it difficult to finish sand / polish etc due to the vast difference in hardness. Your post has given me cause to think about it some more. Maybe I should try to get hold some Queensland red cedar. It does have a nice deep red colour and is very soft - maybe even softer than Huon pine. While it's not local, I am originally a banana bender so that might allow me to use it . Would be hard to source but might be able to hunt some down in an existing article.

Also thinking of a silver bolster and pommel but first I have to work out how to cast silver and polish it etc. Maybe even a silver inlay...

Maybe never get done if I don't get off CF...

Mea culpa. I'll get back on topic in a sec .

Wottie, do you specifically need a softish timber for the handle? If not, what about using Lace Sheoak? I don't know if the characteristics of Sheoak make it suitable for a knife handle, but it is of my favourite Aussie timbers for small pieces, and it gives a nod to your stint in WA.

A timber like that just begs to be handled .

SWL

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by nigel1

I've only used the selma type fids for splicing braid on braid rope, but as others have said, they can get a bit tight.
How do the needles work, I assume that the core or cover is threaded through the eye, does it need to be secured in any way (tape or a small whipping) or does it stay well enough secured?

Hi Nigel
Yes, the cover or core is fed through the eye. The eye is 19mm long on the larger of the two needles in my set.

I have only tried two splices with it in 12 mm double braid polyester, but the strands being pulled needed no tapering, not did they need to be secured (I fed roughly 4 cm through the eye and pulled that through).

Being inexperienced, I struggled and gave up with my Selma fids, so it is significantly easier than using those.

SWL

[UNCIVILIZED]

I'm a bit embarrased to admit it, but prior to getting my splicing wands I wouldn't even try to do any splicing other than 3-strand, or wire to rope. It was just too much of a pain in the backside. And I was self-taught on the 2 aforementioned at age 12. But once I got the wands... it was open season on any kind of cordage. Though taking Brion's class in '02 definitely helped!

[QBF]

If I were in the market for a knife, I'd seek out Alexander Gogolev who makes Yakut knives. I read about him on the Siberian Times website.

Here is a link to the Siberian Times story:
Forging knives like our ancestors, secrets of the Yakutian blades

The Siberian Times stated that anyone interested in one of Alexander Gogolev's knives should contact them at e-shop@siberiantimes.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0i6HadA3n8

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Mea culpa. I'll get back on topic in a sec .

Wottie, do you specifically need a softish timber for the handle?....

Well I do have soft hands

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

........ If not, what about using Lace Sheoak? I don't know if the characteristics of Sheoak make it suitable for a knife handle, but it is of my favourite Aussie timbers for small pieces, and it gives a nod to your stint in WA.

A timber like that just begs to be handled .

SWL

Hmm... maybe. First thoughts is that it looks a "bit fussy" but if it begs to be handled then who am I to refuse - .

I've never used it and I am guessing it maybe open grained but as UC suggests, there are ways and means to sort it.

Thanks for the tip

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Hmm... maybe. First thoughts is that it looks a "bit fussy" but if it begs to be handled then who am I to refuse - .

I've never used it and I am guessing it maybe open grained but as UC suggests, there are ways and means to sort it.

Thanks for the tip

I love good timber. And good knives. And good single malt. And good dark choc ......

The degree of "fussiness" with Sheoak will depend on the bit of timber. The flame varies quite a lot. It can be almost uniform in colour with a very subtle pattern (well suited to small pieces I think), or a bit more dramatic when there is a colour contrast. What I like most about it is the 3D affect. The timber seems alive as you move it around. I think it is a gorgeous Aussie timber.

I have just had a bit of a hunt for Sheoak knife handles and found this hunting knife made by MAB in Maine. The photo is from his website:
http://www.mabcustomknives.com/store...30v-steel.html



Like boats though, it is all personal preference .

SWL

[Seaworthy Lass]

The name Brion Toss crops up frequently when discussing rigging issues. I have not used his equipment, but I am in awe of his knowledge and skills.

He developed the Button stopper used in high strength soft shackles. I now tie this routinely and I am constantly surprised how the seeming "mess" tightens up to produce such a beautiful knot. There is nothing instinctive in it for me. I take my hat off to him.

One thing I have not tried using my new splicing needles for is soft shackles. Most of the feeding is so easy it could almost be done by hand, but when using the Button stopper the tail needs to be inserted as close as possible to the base of the stopper and it is a little tricky to get it close with a bulky Selma type fid. I think it will be much easier using a splicing needle (or Brion's wand) that feeds from the opposite direction and emerges at the base of the stopper.

For those unfamiliar with one, this is Brion's Button stopper on a high strength shackle (the whole concept developed together with Allen Edwards and Evans Starzinger). It is about 30% stronger than a soft shackle made with a Diamond stopper when using the same dyneema.

The thicker legs at the top are where the tails emerging from the base of the stopper need to be fed through:




SWL

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

The name Brion Toss crops up frequently when discussing rigging issues. I have not used his equipment, but I am in awe of his knowledge and skills. . . .

SWL

Maybe a stupid question, but you've read his books, right?

The Rigger's Apprentice is one of my most treasured sailing books. Such a wonderful combination when a fine craftsman is also a fine writer. Worth reading just for the sheer pleasure of it; even the parts about techniques you will never use.

I also love his even-handedness between traditional and avant garde techniques. He treats both with equal love and depth of understanding . . .

A large proportion of the modest knowledge I have about rigging and ropework came from his books. The button knot defeated me, however

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Maybe a stupid question, but you've read his books, right?

The Rigger's Apprentice is one of my most treasured sailing books. Such a wonderful combination when a fine craftsman is also a fine writer. Worth reading just for the sheer pleasure of it; even the parts about techniques you will never use.

No .

I did not develop a real interest in knots until I started cruising and I have since picked up any knowledge online.

SWL

[Seaworthy Lass]

Dockhead, you raise a good point. Resources of knowledge come under the category of "tools".

BOOKS:
I gather the Holy Grail is Brian Toss's book "The Rigger's Apprentice"?
To that I would like to add Clifford Ashley's "The Ashley Book of Knots". I have a pdf copy that I downloaded.

With the rapid advances in new fibres (and items like low friction rings), techniques are, however, changing rapidly when it comes to knot tying and splicing. Many of the conventional procedures and tools are inadequate or inappropriate. By the time a book is written and goes to print, some of the information is likely to be out of date, or incomplete.
This is a new and exciting area.

MY ONLINE RESOURCES:
- Grog's Animated knots Animated Knots by Grog | How to Tie Knots | Fishing, Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Search and Rescue, Household, Decorative, Rope Care,

- The most useful online reference I have come across for dyneema is Allen Edwards's site L-36.com

- Evans Starzinger's load testing data was invaluable too.

- Several rope manufacturers such as Sampson give extremely useful instructions online, particularly for splicing.
eg The resources drop down menu here: SamsonRope.com Home Page

- YouTubes demonstrating techniques. I have unfortunately been able to use these rarely, as internet on board is limited.

- Sailing forums tend to provide the first information regarding advances and I have found back and forth dialogue can help tremendously in developing new methods and making advances.
(You can also find very useful instructions on how to easily tie a Button stopper )


What else have others found to be useful? I have tended to muddle along, stumbling along information in assorted spots. The generous sharing of knowledge is one of the things I like most about the internet. It does prompt me to take the time and contribute in whatever limited way I can to try and "give back" a bit.

SWL

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Dockhead, you raise a good point. Resources of knowledge come under the category of "tools".

BOOKS:
I gather the Holy Grail is Brian Toss's book "The Rigger's Apprentice"?
To that I would like to add Clifford Ashley's "The Ashley Book of Knots". I have a pdf copy that I downloaded.

With the rapid advances in new fibres (and items like low friction rings), techniques are, however, changing rapidly when it comes to knot tying and splicing. Many of the conventional procedures and tools are inadequate or inappropriate. By the time a book is written and goes to print, some of the information is likely to be out of date, or incomplete.
This is a new and exciting area.

MY ONLINE RESOURCES:
- Grog's Animated knots Animated Knots by Grog | How to Tie Knots | Fishing, Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Search and Rescue, Household, Decorative, Rope Care,

- The most useful online reference I have come across for dyneema is Allen Edwards's site L-36.com

- Evans Starzinger's load testing data was invaluable too.

- Several rope manufacturers such as Sampson give extremely useful instructions online, particularly for splicing.
eg The resources drop down menu here: SamsonRope.com Home Page

- YouTubes demonstrating techniques. I have unfortunately been able to use these rarely, as internet on board is limited.

- Sailing forums tend to provide the first information regarding advances and I have found back and forth dialogue can help tremendously in developing new methods and making advances.
(You can also find very useful instructions on how to easily tie a Button stopper )


What else have others found to be useful? I have tended to muddle along, stumbling along information in assorted spots. The generous sharing of knowledge is one of the things I like most about the internet. It does prompt me to take the time and contribute in whatever limited way I can to try and "give back" a bit.

SWL

Give me a mailing address, please, by PM.

[Boulter]

Hi:

Been following along. This is an area in which I know little, but aspire to know a bit more than little...

The height of my skill is that some of the eye loops I put into 3 strand a month ago for the rope luff of some sailrite sails might have been done properly, and there is a slight chance I could do a loop today.

Oh and I can tie a mean bowline.

When I dream big, I see myself perhaps putting loops in 12 strand dyneema and double braid polyester, maybe making some soft shackles. Material sizes would be 1/8 to 1/2 inch diameter.

I am sure the Brian Toss materials are marvelous for those who might be skilled one day, but my reality is that after 6 months, any knot I manage to puzzle through will need to be learned again as if I had never seen it before. Does not make any sense to save 30 seconds with a $100 tool after spending an hour studying how to do the knot.

So do I need anything more than the Sampson set of 5 or 6 fids and related bits? Maybe even that is too much investment. I have hardwood and a lathe, should be able to make a fid in 15 minutes.

Boulter

[seahag]

Plus one here Boulter. I am okay with knots but anything further and I have to constantly reeducate myself. Just like foreign languages. I just lose it by being engrossed with every other thing in life, can't stay honed to put it in this threads perspective. Oh yeah, I suck at sharpening knives too.

Very appreciative of the talent and knowledge of the others who've contributed to this thread though. It's amazing to me how much detail so many here can remember!