Single Line Reefing Routes

[djousset]

Some strong wind has me finally tackling my single line reefing system…..there’s a lot going on there and I’m hoping I rigged it properly. (Two reefing points, pulleys/butterfly block in the boom, all lines back to the cockpit). I’ve seen many configurations. Bear with me on the terminology...

For each reefing point one line exits the boom at the gooseneck, go up to the reef cringle, comes down and back to the cockpit for deployment. Aft line comes out of the free end of the boom and goes up to the leach cringle. Should these lines go up and through the cringle and come back down to the boom, or simply attach at the cringle? I've seen attachment at cringle only, attachment thru webbing loop and back down on the same side, and loop through and back down on other side. That might provide better downward pull as right now there’s more pull aft. I feel some friction although I can’t identify the source, seems they should work swiftly and smoothly.

[fxykty]

There are two reasons to lead the reefing line coming out of the back end of the boom and up to the reef cringle through the cringle and back down to the boom:
1) provide strong downward tension for each reef clew
2) halve the force on the line, which may be an issue depending on the size of your boat

Regarding friction:
1) check that all blocks run freely and are aligned properly (especially if there’s a block inside your boom - make sure it can’t twist or bind)
2) if you don’t have a block on the luff cringle then add one there (it’s much less important at the clew)
3) you can also down-size the reefing line by switching to a high modulus line

[Ziggy]

See attached

[Benz]

It sounds like you're describing double line reefing, if you have two deadends. Single line is where one end deadends on the boom after passing through the luff cringle, back down to the boom, all the way aft along it, out again, and through the leech cringle.
This system, IMO, is a disaster of friction, which when attempted to be overcome with winch power, results in things breaking.
You seem, though, to be describing separate lines for luff and leech. It's still better, I think, to go through the cringle and deadend on the boom, as it gives you more advantage when pulling in a reef. Use the thinnest, strongest line you can handle to reduce friction and bulk.
You would do better still to do all your ropework at the mast. Far less mess and confusion.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by Benz

It sounds like you're describing double line reefing, if you have two deadends. Single line is where one end deadends on the boom after passing through the luff cringle, back down to the boom, all the way aft along it, out again, and through the leech cringle.
This system, IMO, is a disaster of friction, which when attempted to be overcome with winch power, results in things breaking.
You seem, though, to be describing separate lines for luff and leech. It's still better, I think, to go through the cringle and deadend on the boom, as it gives you more advantage when pulling in a reef. Use the thinnest, strongest line you can handle to reduce friction and bulk.
You would do better still to do all your ropework at the mast. Far less mess and confusion.

The Selden "Single line reefing" system actually uses two lines, as shown in the diagram attached to my previous post. In my experience, there's relatively little friction, at least on my 32' boat.

[Tetepare]

The Selden is single line per reef. Two reefs is two lines.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

The Selden is single line per reef. Two reefs is two lines.

Not true. I know because I have it. Look at this diagram:

[wiekeith]

[QUOTE=Ziggy;3475392]Not true. I know because I have it. Look at this diagram:

Yeah, when I first encountered the Selden single line reefing it took me a while to figure-out how/why each 'single line' had three ends!

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

Not true. I know because I have it. Look at this diagram:

I think what they mean with single line reefing is that you pull on a single line to reef the sail. That there’s pulleys, lines and even sliding cars involved, is “behind the scenes”

[b_rodwell]

Again S/V Jedi has a solution that is elegant and easy to use.

But it is not the cheapest and simplest.

This is what I would do if I got another cruising boat:

Use dyeema single braid and rig it as a conventional single line reef. The dyeema diameter could be at least 2/3 the diameter of a conventional reefing line. Sew (Or get a rigger to sew!) a polyester-Technora chafe sleeve at the point where the clutch will be used. Voile!

Brian

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by b_rodwell

Again S/V Jedi has a solution that is elegant and easy to use.

But it is not the cheapest and simplest.

This is what I would do if I got another cruising boat:

Use dyeema single braid and rig it as a conventional single line reef. The dyeema diameter could be at least 2/3 the diameter of a conventional reefing line. Sew (Or get a rigger to sew!) a polyester-Technora chafe sleeve at the point where the clutch will be used. Voile!

Brian

Also add an insert to provide better grip for the clutch.

We replaced 12mm and 14mm double braid polyester lines with 8mm Acera Amundsen single braid and added Technora covers without inserts and the cover is starting to rip after a couple years of use. Once the cover needs replacing and assuming the line is still good we will add inserts before sewing a larger cover into place.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Also add an insert to provide better grip for the clutch.

We replaced 12mm and 14mm double braid polyester lines with 8mm Acera Amundsen single braid and added Technora covers without inserts and the cover is starting to rip after a couple years of use. Once the cover needs replacing and assuming the line is still good we will add inserts before sewing a larger cover into place.

Yes, a combination of an insert in the core to increase diameter, plus a cover for grip as well as increased diameter is the best solution. The Dyneema runs at very low friction because of the thin diameter as well as the slippery material. By adding a core and cover, you adapt it to the clutches designed for old tech lines.

I have a quick and easy method for splicing a cover over Dyneema but didn’t find anyone documenting it yet.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Benz

It sounds like you're describing double line reefing, if you have two deadends. Single line is where one end deadends on the boom after passing through the luff cringle, back down to the boom, all the way aft along it, out again, and through the leech cringle.
This system, IMO, is a disaster of friction, which when attempted to be overcome with winch power, results in things breaking.
You seem, though, to be describing separate lines for luff and leech. It's still better, I think, to go through the cringle and deadend on the boom, as it gives you more advantage when pulling in a reef. Use the thinnest, strongest line you can handle to reduce friction and bulk.
You would do better still to do all your ropework at the mast. Far less mess and confusion.

Yeah I got the impression you are talking about double line reefing too in the original post. To answer your question, I would run the line through the aft cringle and down to the boom to hold the clew properly. Some photos of what you have might be nice.

[JohnHolland]

Mine are 3 reef.points..3 single lines tied off at the boom end, up through the cringles, back down to 3 seaves, all the way through the boom to 3 similar seaves at the gooseneck, up to the cringles, then down past the gooseneck to a triple block at the mast base, all back to clutches in the cockpit...so pull on 1 line for each reef point. Agree smaller dyneema might work better than the standard 6mm DP, but I can.still pull the mainsail up without a winch...lots of line though.
Reefing is all from the cockpit esp.w stackpack: loosen main halyard and drop main to premarked point, pull in first reef line, then pull slack out of 2 and 3, etc, never have to leave.cockpit. Again, stackpack keeps reefed main slabs tidy. Cheers. John

[wingssail]

Simpler is better.

My experience with single line reefing systems is that the friction and the complexity of the routing overweighs the benefit of one line to reef.

My recommendation is:

Use one line for each reef (for each reef point or at least two). These lines start at the boom (near the end, often just ties around the boom) and go up to clew reefing cringle, then back down to the end of the boom where a sheave exists, then forward to the gooseneck, down to the deck and back to a winch.

For the tack reefing just have a hook at the gooseneck. Yes you have to go to the mast to pull down the mainsail luff and put it on the hook, but this is often easier than winching in the whole single reef line system.

The order is:

• release the halyard
• go forward and pull down luff to the hook
• tension the halyard
• winch in the clew reefing line.
• Done

Some moving around is required if you are single handing but it is fast and friction free. If you have a crew or helper, it is almost instant.