Splicing Amsteel 7/64”

[s/v Jedi]

So I read about the trouble splicing this 8-strand and decided to try.

With my Selma fids, the smallest one is okay to make a Brummel lock, both the single line and a loop can be worked through with it. But burying the tail it’s too large. I think 1/8” Amsteel would work.

Next was my smallest Ronstan D-splicer. I could do the bury with it but only barely. I went on to see what I have and it turns out my smallest one is the medium model... so I put the small model on my wishlist. It’s rated for 2-4mm rope or so and the Amsteel 7/64 is 2.5mm so that should work great.

I prefer the D-splicers over wire because of the handle. The actual wire goes all around that handle inside the plastic so it’s super strong.

[ChrisJHC]

I use gardening wire (the sort that is coated with plastic) to splice smaller sizes of Amsteel.

[Benz]

For stuff that small I use SS leader wire folded in half. I made one pullfid with the leader wire wrapped around a pin for a handle. The handle really helps on the lines that are braided a little too tight, like 3/16" Amsteel, where you simply can't get a fid through.

[Orion Jim]

I use seizing wire (the stuff used for seizing shackle pins) because I always have it on board. The smallest stuff I’ve spliced is 3/16. I’m also a big fan of the D-splicers for the larger Amsteel.

[alaskanviking]

I've spliced it. D-splicet can be a bit thick for the small stuff. Thin piano or welding wire bent in half works well.

I struggled with it for a while before I discovered the secret. You have to prepare the end of the line getting caught in the splicer, by thinning the diameter by half. I just cut ~half the diameter with scissors. About an inch to 1.5" from the end. Put this thinner line through the splicer and double it back. Now it's the same thickness as the rest of the line.

Selma fid style splicers don't work with the small stuff. Get stuck. Was really frustrating. Once I figured out the secret it's really easy. I splice all sorts of lanyards for tools or removable caps ect. Used spliced lanyards to retain valve caps on zodiacs.

Pictured is a whoopie sling I spliced with 1/8" or 3/16" amsteel I believe.

[alaskanviking]

Use fiber optics scissors/sheers. Best tool you can get for cutting dyneema

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by alaskanviking

I've spliced it. D-splicet can be a bit thick for the small stuff. Thin piano or welding wire bent in half works well.

I struggled with it for a while before I discovered the secret. You have to prepare the end of the line getting caught in the splicer, by thinning the diameter by half. I just cut ~half the diameter with scissors. About an inch to 1.5" from the end. Put this thinner line through the splicer and double it back. Now it's the same thickness as the rest of the line.

Selma fid style splicers don't work with the small stuff. Get stuck. Was really frustrating. Once I figured out the secret it's really easy. I splice all sorts of lanyards for tools or removable caps ect. Used spliced lanyards to retain valve caps on zodiacs.

Pictured is a whoopie sling I spliced with 1/8" or 3/16" amsteel I believe. Attachment 239622Attachment 239623

I just got the small size D-splicer in. It is significantly smaller so I’m sure it’ll work great. Yes, thinning the end is key

I’m still trying to figure out uses of whoopie slings aboard. Thinking of lazy jacks, lifelines at the boarding gates etc.

[ChrisJHC]

I use whoopie slings all the time on my camping hammock.

I would not use them for purposes such as safety lines or jack lines.
Whoopie slings are designed to be adjustable when not under load so I wouldn’t use them for any line that is not constantly under load.