Titanium Bolts

[Briggers]

I am trying to adjust my rigging. It’s all going well with the exception of my furling gear. The two titanium bolts securing the fixing plates refuse to budge.

I would attach a photo but am unable to reduce the size to 400kb as required.

Does anyone have solution to this problem? I have tried warming the aluminium fuller, tried an impact driver and conventional alen key and used an easing agent.

This job is turning into a nightmare are.

Thanks in advance

[Cheechako]

Not sure, but I do know that Titanium galls very badly on threads sometimes. I hope that is not the issue because it can be so bad it's 'welded together' more or less. If you get it apart put some graphite or etc on the threads.
Forcing it can just peel the ti threads apart. I'm not sure where these bolts are...? But I wonder why they used Ti?
Looking at Ti under a microscope, it looks a lot like stone, very rough and porous.

[Flying Monkey]

Here is a method to try.
Tools needed.
High power soldering iron.
Can of PBlaster
Whatever tool fits the head of the bolt.
Fire extinguisher.
Protective gloves.

Put the tip of the soldering iron directly on the head of the bolt. Heat the bolt to around 500 degrees F. This takes a lot longer than one might think. It will probably start to smoke. Keep applying heat. **** I highly discourage the use of flame to heat the fastener. Even a small, pinpoint torch is still an open flame, adds risk to the operation, and does not give enough control over the heat.

Once the fastener is hot. Spray it directly with the PBlaster. *** there will be a lot of smoke and fuss when you spray it. Make sure you protect yourself from the fumes and orotect other surfaces from heat and overspray.

Re-apply the soldering iron and re-heat to 500 F.

Carefully attempt to unscrew the fastener. Make sure the tool fits very well.

If that does not work, then they probably need to be drilled out and the holes re-threaded.

Why apply such high heat?
In some cases during assembly, they apply 'permanent' loctite to the threads. That type of loctite only breaks free with the application of heat at 500 degrees F. I have seen 3/4" bolts break off, before the permanent loctite broke free.
Additionally, the high heat will cause expansion. Application of a penetrating agent will cause rapid cool down and draw the penetrant in to the threads.

Good luck and please let us know how it goes.

Source: I am a professional mechanic and use this method to disassemble factory assembled components for repair and replacement.

[markxengineerin]

Which brand furler?

On my Profurl, I was initially unsuccessful in removing 4 of the titanium bolts involved. All were allen head. I got two of them using an impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer) loaded with a 12 point "cheesehead/triple sqare" socket that was slightly too big to fit the allen head. The form of the cheesehead was essentially broached/forged into the bolt, and they're still perfectly useable.

Two others could not be saved, stripped out using this method. I drilled them out and made new ones.

With heat, be careful there is no plastic/rubber in the area.