Unsticking a very stuck turnbuckle

[Ryban]

Common problem but I'm sort of out of (good) ideas here.

I'm replacing my rod bobstay with 3/8" wire (the fork the rod fed into was badly corroded and ended up breaking apart when removing, and it was actually almost cheaper to replace the whole thing with new sta-lok parts and wire, then to try and source a new threaded fork).

In any case, I want to retain the bronze turnbuckle, but it is securely stuck on the rod. I've tried many treatments of PB Blaster and WD40, as well as heating with a heat gun, and carefully with a torch, but still the thing won't budge.

Part of the problem is that it is difficult to grab the rod and it will spin in everything I've tried before the turnbuckle budges. I've tried vices (with wood blocks and leather), I've tried an array of heavy duty clamps between two pieces of wood (to get greater surface area than the vice), I've tried screwing the rod between two pieces of plywood + a few clamps, but no matter what, the rod will eventually spin.

Up until now, I've been trying to preserve the rod, as it's in good condition and probably useful for somebody, but I'm feeling more and more like I'm going to need to cut a slot on the rod or apply a pipe wrench, either way, the rod will be compromised at that point.

Any last ditch ideas before I go to town on this thing?

[Pete7]

I am all for recycling, but it's not worth you time. Cut the stainless and recycle that. Send the turnbuckle off to the scrap yard. After all would you trust the threads even if you do eventually manage to free it? Not me particularly for anything other than holding up a washing line in the garden.

Pete

[Ryban]

Thanks for the reply Pete, and that's a valid point of concern.

I'm going to take a pipe wrench to see if that frees it up. I'll inspect the threads and make a smart decision about what should be done with it. Otherwise I'll melt it down and re-cast the bronze for another project.

[Orion Jim]

I value bronze turnbuckles myself. You can use a die grinder to grind flats on that rod so it can easily be held in a vice. Easy peasy.

[Ryban]

Luckily I think I saved both parts! I did have to use a pipe wrench, but the scuffing on the rod is relatively minor -- I will find a Westsail owner to give it to.

The turnbuckle itself seems to be in good condition too, and I couldn't see any issues with the threads upon preliminary inspection.

[vpbarkley]

Glad you solved the problem. My go to for this would be Vice Grips - a large pair, set as tight as you possibly can and still get them closed, with both hands in a death grip!
To prevent marring, a copper strip can be used between the jaws and the work piece. This however will significantly reduce the torque you can impart.
Anti-seize on turnbuckle threads will avoid this problem in the future.
Smooth sailing

[sinnerman]

When I was a "lad", I was out sailing on a 27 ft home built trimaran in choppy waters.

It was FAST & fun, then all of a sudden a"BANG".

The mast came down, falling aft and tearing the cabin roof off with it.

There was a lot of scrambling to haul the mast, rigging, sails & boom back aboard and getting the "British Seagull" outboard to start.

Turned out that the brass (bronze?) turnbuckle on the forestay had stripped its threads. Maybe it was undersized I do not know, or just too old and too weak (like me) for the job.

Cheers

[peterincalgary]

I had a similar instance on my Allied Seawind 30, after replacing the Bowsprit, I couldn't adjust the SS turnbuckle of the Bobstay and it rewound the cable, I replaced same with Galvanised chain and Turnbuckle, solved.

[GEH]

I'm not very well-informed as an engineer, but I know that during assembly (& dismantling?) of components in certain circumstances, liquid nitrogen is used to shrink one item whereas heat is used to expand the other thus enabling an 'interference fit' to be achieved. Might such a technique be utilised to deal with your type of problem?

[caffel]

Now that it's apart, I suggest that on re-assembly you back up the threads shown in the picture with a stop nut on the inside of the turnbuckle.
This may require a little machining on the flats of the nuts.
Extra effort may be needed to source the left-handed nut.
Also clean all of the threads with taps or dies.
Neverseize never hurts.

[CarinaPDX]

Turnbuckles should always have dry lube (molybdenum disulphide) on the threads to prevent seizing. neverseize works great but is messy, and remains so if not cleaned off of the exposed threads. Dry lube lasts for years and is well worth the effort.

Greg

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Ryban

Common problem but I'm sort of out of (good) ideas here.

I'm replacing my rod bobstay with 3/8" wire (the fork the rod fed into was badly corroded and ended up breaking apart when removing, and it was actually almost cheaper to replace the whole thing with new sta-lok parts and wire, then to try and source a new threaded fork).

In any case, I want to retain the bronze turnbuckle, but it is securely stuck on the rod. I've tried many treatments of PB Blaster and WD40, as well as heating with a heat gun, and carefully with a torch, but still the thing won't budge.

Part of the problem is that it is difficult to grab the rod and it will spin in everything I've tried before the turnbuckle budges. I've tried vices (with wood blocks and leather), I've tried an array of heavy duty clamps between two pieces of wood (to get greater surface area than the vice), I've tried screwing the rod between two pieces of plywood + a few clamps, but no matter what, the rod will eventually spin.

Up until now, I've been trying to preserve the rod, as it's in good condition and probably useful for somebody, but I'm feeling more and more like I'm going to need to cut a slot on the rod or apply a pipe wrench, either way, the rod will be compromised at that point.

Any last ditch ideas before I go to town on this thing?

I have one thought that may work. Although I'm not sure with corrosion involved. It was shown me be an old German millwright. We had a very expensive flexible metal duct joint that is threaded together. Kinda like a ball joint tube. The things cost like $1500. It was assembled and not cross threaded but simply wouldn't come apart to install in an assembly. Like a 3" thin wall tubing coupler so hard to grip without damage.

He heated it lightly with a torch and melted paraffin into the joint. It wicked right in. He let it sit to cool and simply unscrewed it with his hands!

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by peterincalgary

I had a similar instance on my Allied Seawind 30, after replacing the Bowsprit, I couldn't adjust the SS turnbuckle of the Bobstay and it rewound the cable, I replaced same with Galvanised chain and Turnbuckle, solved.

You're on the right track.
Having any kind of swedged or Stay-Lok/Cast-Lok,, or similar wire termination on the lower end of a bobstay that is continually submerged in salt water is the height of folly.
Also, in general, using wire, or a rod, for a bobstay is unwise, should you find yourself in the water, a wire/rod is almost impossible to grasp in order to hoist yourself up.
With chain you can hold on and pull yourself up and aboard.

[Popcorn]

FWIW, I use a submerged method in a bucket or tube with transmission oil (or carb cleaner)and prior to that spray corrosion block and in a few days most always find it easy to turn any direction.
Every year I go around and spray just the Corrosion Block on all turnbuckles and some stainless nuts and bolts. It also cleans well leaving a shine plus it's really easy and lasts a long time in salt air environments.

[billgewater]

I back Bowdrie's comment. Chains are easier to replace if damaged by anchors etc., plus if someone goes overboard then a bobstay chain makes retrieval easier. This happened to an overambitious guest crew member in Darwin harbour many years ago. He wanted to pick up our mooring line and possibly (probably) due to some social lubricant, fell overboard. As his head appeared above water we all yelled "Crocs!". He shimmied up that bobstay chain at a remarkable and entertaining rate.