Designing the Perfect RIB Tender?

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Auspicious

Tubes that extend further aft to account for the greater weight of most 4-stroke outboards.

Seems like a good point. Also seems like many of the available 11'-something models are actually the same as the 10'2" models except for having longer tubes.

We have short tubes. Longer would be better... but I was hesitant to extend our transverse mount system too near the beam of our transom/swim platform... to minimize the bumper-car possibility when docking stern-to.

-Chris

[stevensuf]

Longer tubes aft of the transom are a good idea, seen many a dink almost go under at the transom when the give that heavy four stroke some throttle.

[Roy M]

I just got my new AB VS10 a few weeks ago, and took the first real putt-putt around the Bay yesterday. It's powered by a 15 HP Lehr Propane engine using a 7+ gallon composite horizontal tank, also sold by Lehr, to feed liquid propane. The lifting bridles are made with Amsteel, 1/4" using Whoopie Slings to provide fine adjustment to the balance as the fuel tank changes in weight. I am currently building a graphite/foam roller bar to bring it up onto the port wing deck for storage. I'm very happy with this craft.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by stevensuf

Longer tubes aft of the transom are a good idea, seen many a dink almost go under at the transom when the give that heavy four stroke some throttle.

just get a larger dinghy. It makes a difference. Given a choice between getting an 11 foot dinghy with extended pontoons to make it 12 foot, I would rather get a 12 foot dinghy with more interior space. Also consider that extended pontoons will also affect steering in an adverse way. At a certain point, the longer dinghy is also a little wider, thus adding more buoyancy. If the O/B is too heavy for the dink. making it squat, just carry more fuel and keep all of your gas way up front.
Some manufacturers are now making the tubes a little wider for more buoyancy to accept the heavier engines.

[olaf hart]

Tinker Foldaway RIB

Tinker Class Owners Association

Unfortunately not made anymore

[Paul Annapolis]

Perfect rib tender??? Try this:

Kitchen Bliss: Super Easy and Tender BBQ Ribs

[Auspicious]

Originally Posted by Tony B

just get a larger dinghy. It makes a difference. Given a choice between getting an 11 foot dinghy with extended pontoons to make it 12 foot, I would rather get a 12 foot dinghy with more interior space. Also consider that extended pontoons will also affect steering in an adverse way. At a certain point, the longer dinghy is also a little wider, thus adding more buoyancy. If the O/B is too heavy for the dink. making it squat, just carry more fuel and keep all of your gas way up front.

Not to digress too badly, my Caribe L9 and Honda 9.9 are not a good match. Even with large tubes, the L9 doesn't trim well with the heavy 4-stroke even with the fuel tank AND a battery forward. If I had it to do again I'd get a Caribe 10X or similar AB or Avon.

There are limits to getting a bigger dinghy. My L9 (and a wished for 10X) fit between the mast and inner forestay. An 11 would not. Longer tubes would be fine.

Even absent storage size limits larger sizes eventually mean larger engines and the weight/trim issue recurs.

[Sailor Doug]

I have own dinks with short and long tubes aft of transom. The long, dome end tubes win hands down. I think the short point end tides are just a old design. The longer tubes create more usable interior space by allowing you to sit further aft. No more handle extensions no more whale tails.

[Tony B]

Any short rib will not do well with heavier engines or heavier people for that matter. Unfortunately, most of us have size or weight limitations. There is a point of being reasonable regardless of what the manufacturer says. My inflatable is rated at "15HP Max and 10HP is Recommended". The 10HP is more than adequate for planing, I have a 9.8 4-stroke. I'm sure a 15 HP will pull the stern down.
When I put my 9.8 4-stroke on my 9' dink the rear really squats badly and the boat is rated for 10HP. But that was 20 years ago with 10HP 2 stroke which probably would also have been too heavy.
Many manufacturers are overseas where 2-strokes are still legal. The manufacturers get to play dumb here so they can impress you with a larger HP engine. If you have a 9' dink, I would think that a 6 or 7 HP would do you well.
The 9' dink came with my used 36 Mainship. After using it for almost a year, I would not recommend anything under 10'. Unfortunately, if 9' is all you can carry, you are stuck with it.
Towing is always an option but not always a good one. I have towed before but rarely with the engine on it, for obvious reasons.

[Cutterman]

What goes into making a good RIB depends on what you want to do with it.

My sailboat limits me to a 3M RIB. I found that, two up in a slightly choppy head sea situation with a 8HP 4 stroke Honda, so much water came over the bow (despite the zip-up foredeck) made me consider fitting the kick-down self baler used in some sailing dinghies.

Recently I decided to replace my RIB with a nesting 10' ply displacement dink that is more seaworthy and has sufficient flotation to support a crew of up to three and emergency equipment when swamped. I can row or sail it for pleasure and enjoy a slower, quieter commute under power.

[Roy M]

Update, my 10'6"AB VS RIB is very cool, using its Lehr 15 hp propane engine. I just finished painting the bottom with Pettit 1841 antifouling, and have finished the support beam and deck extension for the roller units to allow me to stow the dink on the port wingdeck of my multihull. I'm presently stripping the old nonskid to attach the new deck rollers, then I'll re-nonskid the decks. Here's a pic of the boat on its sling:

[Cheechako]

Cool!