Dinghy Combination Lock that Doesn't Corrode

[waterman46]

Originally Posted by Anders

Our ABUS combination lock is at least 10 years old and is still working perfectly.

And another Aye for ABUS combo lock. We have two in active use, and they are just fine after so many years I can't remember, but at least 15. One of ours rides in the bottom of the dinghy. Pretty tough environment. As with anything on the boat, you have to give it a dose of lubricant/penetrant now and then.

[ixnax]

Originally Posted by walbee

McMaster Carr caries a Master Lock all SS combo which I’ve only used for few months in fresh water. I use it along with a SS land yard which I also got from MC.

Kinda pricy but so far so good.

Weather-Resistant Resettable Combination Padlock, Stainless Steel Body, Master Lock 1174, 1-1/16" Vertical Clearance

https://www.mcmaster.com/3265N12

Thanks to you I ordered one from Amazon yesterday. 1174D Stainless Steel. $27.97 including one day shipping. It's a very solid looking unit for a good price so I ordered a back-up.

[Dave_S]

Just a word of caution in regards to combination padlocks or those that are cable inline. Most are not difficult to decode and because they are used a lot on push bikes some thieves are capable of opening them.

[ixnax]

Originally Posted by Dave_S

Just a word of caution in regards to combination padlocks or those that are cable inline. Most are not difficult to decode and because they are used a lot on push bikes some thieves are capable of opening them.

Most padlocks are easy to pick with the right kit, too. I've been using beefy Yale Stainless key locks without problem as long as maintenance is done.

I think most of the trick is just having your set-up look harder to defeat than the other dinghies at the dock which isn't terribly hard given how lax folks can be. These Master 1174D's look serious which is job 1 in my book.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Cpt Mark

Are you? I've had sesame locks on my boat for over 20 years. Never a failure.
It might look the same but are they?

One thing to note is all my locks are old. It is quite possible the manufacturing has been cheapened over the years. IDK.

open in it 1 second, maybe 2 minutes if I have to snip the tool out of a bit of beer can. maybe 3 minutes if I have to drink the beer first.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by ixnax

Most padlocks are easy to pick with the right kit, too. I've been using beefy Yale Stainless key locks without problem as long as maintenance is done.

I think most of the trick is just having your set-up look harder to defeat than the other dinghies at the dock which isn't terribly hard given how lax folks can be. These Master 1174D's look serious which is job 1 in my book.

yep and no. picking a pin tumbler at least requires a little bit of skill. even using a rake requires a modicum of skill. practically no skill required on the combo. but yeah, vast majority of pin tumbler padlocks will fall quickly to a rake and won't need individual picking.

combo locks are a joke. Arguably easier than the tubular lock e.g. used on soda machines and the laughable kryptonite bike locks, which can be opened with a cheap ballpoint pen

get a quality key lock (not masterlock) and one that can't be opened by

shimming

either.

there ARE good padlocks you just have to know what to look for.

remember risk = likelihood x impact, what 's the ROI on a hundred dollar padlock? depends on your risk tolerance, where you are, and how much of your personal net worth that outboard is.

[ixnax]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

yep and no. picking a pin tumbler at least requires a little bit of skill. even using a rake requires a modicum of skill. practically no skill required on the combo. but yeah, vast majority of pin tumbler padlocks will fall quickly to a rake and won't need individual picking.

combo locks are a joke. Arguably easier than the tubular lock e.g. used on soda machines and the laughable kryptonite bike locks, which can be opened with a cheap ballpoint pen

get a quality key lock (not masterlock) and one that can't be opened by

either.

there ARE good padlocks you just have to know what to look for.

remember risk = likelihood x impact, what 's the ROI on a hundred dollar padlock? depends on your risk tolerance, where you are, and how much of your personal net worth that outboard is.

Good advice and I'll take your recommendation on a proper padlock. It certainly isn't about the money, or at least it shouldn't be, when it comes to giving up the dinghy to a thief. It's all about coming back from dinner or a hike and seeing that your car was stolen and it isn't just a walk but it's a swim home. And if you are as particular about your dinghy and engine as I am the idea of getting raped down island for a set-up you don't want is very unappealing. Like I said, making your dinghy the hardest one to steal is a smart strategy.


BTW, the shims look plenty stouter then beer can material. Have you succeeded with can material?

[ixnax]

Originally Posted by ixnax

Good advice and I'll take your recommendation on a proper padlock. It certainly isn't about the money, or at least it shouldn't be, when it comes to giving up the dinghy to a thief. It's all about coming back from dinner or a hike and seeing that your car was stolen and it isn't just a walk but it's a swim home. And if you are as particular about your dinghy and engine as I am the idea of getting raped down island for a set-up you don't want is very unappealing. Like I said, making your dinghy the hardest one to steal is a smart strategy.


BTW, the shims look plenty stouter then beer can material. Have you succeeded with can material?

Update on the Masterlock 1174D; it was cancelled by guess who as a poor choice for night op's.

1. You'll first need to find your glasses.
2. You'll need a light.
3. You'll need a third hand for the light.

As opposed to just sticking the key in a hole located by feel alone. Good that Amazon does free returns.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by ixnax

BTW, the shims look plenty stouter then beer can material. Have you succeeded with can material?

I have shimmed padlocks with can material yes, but my reference to snipping something out of a can was actually to make a feeler/decoder for the combo locks. They typically have a notch on the wheel and enough play where you can get a properly sized probe between the wheels and feel the notch.

[Dave_S]

If you have changed your mind and now want a key operated padlock, you should ask for a lock that has cotton reel top pins, and has dead locking. The latest burglary through picking locks is by "bumping" a ridiculously easy method and the cotton reel top pins are pretty effective at minimising entry through bumping and picking.

Dead locking means something else between Australia and the US. In Australia it means the locking is not functioned by a spring loaded locking block or slide but is locked by a block or slide that can not be moved by any means without use of the key. This means all the shimming etc can not unlock the shackle.

In Australia a Lockwood 247 padlock is deadlocking, but you will have to check if it is loaded with cotton reel top pins. They may come standard loaded with them now? Otherwise buy from a locksmith, they can fit them in 5 minutes.

[Auklet]

After spending much time on this question some years past, I decided that using a dinghy lock is hardly more than a “feel good” act b/c if your dinghy becomes “targeted” the thief will probably get it. Somebody carrying a small pair of cable cutters can free the dink from the dock in seconds. If using chain, then a small bolt cutter will do it. Some possible deterrents. If leaving for long, disable the engine by pulling a plug or plug wire. Of course, take the engine kill switch although a prepared thief would have “the set” that one can get from WM for $15. Break down the oars and take the handles with you. However, none of this would keep a thief from towing it away with another stolen dink, etc.