Porta-bote haters: what's not to like?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Marlincaptain

Is there a Porta-bote owner within a day's drive of Millsboro, Delaware 19966 (MD, VA, PA, NJ, DE, ??) that would be willing to show us their porta-bote in person after this covid situation has passed?

(clip)

We hope to hear from you. The Lloyds, Indian River Bay, DE. 302-399-8988 04/16/2020

Another resource for you is Facebook, where there are at least two pages on PBs.

At this moment there are a couple in the Vero Beach City Marina; I sold mine due to the intractability of dealing with marks the tubing left (not the current generation; thus my bolted in comments earlier).

Pose your question in those groups and I'd bet there's someone who'd love to show you theirs.

But as to the robust-or-not new transoms, every single one of the current generation that I have seen either downsized their engine (after fixing the issues caused) or severely beefed up their system (the transom parts).

If you don't wind up getting a used one with the bolt-in transom, you should expect not to use anything more than a couple of horsepower without doing serious alteration/strengthening, whether to the rear seat, the brace, or the transom pieces themselves (let alone the hull mounting)...

On the other hand, our ancient Johnson 6 (which could actually have been an 8, as they are the same weight) took our 2011 Bote (with bolted hard transom) and ~400 pounds of us and gear (plus the engine) at 15 knots and it's the driest ride you'll have short of an aluminum rowboat - and even that I'm not sure.

[mjgill1]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Another resource for you is Facebook, where there are at least two pages on PBs.

At this moment there are a couple in the Vero Beach City Marina; I sold mine due to the intractability of dealing with marks the tubing left (not the current generation; thus my bolted in comments earlier).

Pose your question in those groups and I'd bet there's someone who'd love to show you theirs.

But as to the robust-or-not new transoms, every single one of the current generation that I have seen either downsized their engine (after fixing the issues caused) or severely beefed up their system (the transom parts).

If you don't wind up getting a used one with the bolt-in transom, you should expect not to use anything more than a couple of horsepower without doing serious alteration/strengthening, whether to the rear seat, the brace, or the transom pieces themselves (let alone the hull mounting)...

On the other hand, our ancient Johnson 6 (which could actually have been an 8, as they are the same weight) took our 2011 Bote (with bolted hard transom) and ~400 pounds of us and gear (plus the engine) at 15 knots and it's the driest ride you'll have short of an aluminum rowboat - and even that I'm not sure.

Now you have me worried. We bought a new Alpha not too long ago and it has the updated transom. We went with the recommended Suzuki 6 hp engine who we bought from them at a good price. No problems thus far, but not that many hours either. What problems are you referring to specifically?

[hpeer]

While trying to buy my last PB I asked about the sturdy ESA of this folding transom which sent the Owner into a tirade about how the boats are only rated for 2hp. I mentioned I had an 8 and that put him over the top.

Some years ago I saw a lot of PB’s, removable transom, that were clearly sold completely kitted out from PB, have 15hp Suzuki’s, which PB sells.

Rant off: The transom can not tolerate the torsion of the motor. They have tried to “fix” this by installing a strengthening strut from the transom to the rear seat. But it was done poorly on my boat and the seat attachment lol rivits quickly pulled Followed by the pop rivits holding in the hinge.

There is a PB Modifications FB site where people discuss ways or fix this. Some of the more recent are pretty good. Frankly the idea has merit, it could have been accomplished much more effectively at minimal cost in the manufacture. My guess is that you can do a decent fix under $100 and 4 hours messing around.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/556827...f=group_browse

Warning: some people have waaay to much time.

The ultimate fix is just to put in a removable transom. 1/2” glassed ply with some aluminum angle will do the trick. A couple of bucks and a couple of hours more.

PB hulls are still great, the new seats are a big improvement.

We beat the stuffing out of ours, I’ve towed it thousands of miles, literally. New sears, new transom, heavier but still gets it done.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by hpeer

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The ultimate fix is just to put in a removable transom. 1/2” glassed ply with some aluminum angle will do the trick. A couple of bucks and a couple of hours more.

PB hulls are still great, the new seats are a big improvement.

We beat the stuffing out of ours, I’ve towed it thousands of miles, literally. New sears, new transom, heavier but still gets it done.

The prior transoms were plastic over some form of metal frame, with the ears/leafs/whatever bolting to the hull out the sides and projecting forward.

One of the botes in Vero was REALLY old, from the days of wood. He'd made up a new transom plate with plywood, but didn't have a large motor on it.

So, if you didn't mind fabricating your own (heavy ply, something to go on the stern like the prior folding hard plastic did, angle irons) you could make a new model as stiff as the old ones.

As to towing, we towed ours all over the Bahamas, with the engine on. On which, a heads up; the wingnut type of assembly is fine for day or weekend trips, but if you're going to use it extensively you should bolt and nylock it, or else you might lose a lower bolt and get water in the bote, or worse, lose an engine and transmission.

And, I also used eye nuts to provide a lifting point on the top pair, and used my tow line rig for the bow, and used that triad to lift it aside in foul water.

If it weren't for the marking rails, it would be our only dinghy...

[smj]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

The prior transoms were plastic over some form of metal frame, with the ears/leafs/whatever bolting to the hull out the sides and projecting forward.



One of the botes in Vero was REALLY old, from the days of wood. He'd made up a new transom plate with plywood, but didn't have a large motor on it.



So, if you didn't mind fabricating your own (heavy ply, something to go on the stern like the prior folding hard plastic did, angle irons) you could make a new model as stiff as the old ones.



As to towing, we towed ours all over the Bahamas, with the engine on. On which, a heads up; the wingnut type of assembly is fine for day or weekend trips, but if you're going to use it extensively you should bolt and nylock it, or else you might lose a lower bolt and get water in the bote, or worse, lose an engine and transmission.



And, I also used eye nuts to provide a lifting point on the top pair, and used my tow line rig for the bow, and used that triad to lift it aside in foul water.



If it weren't for the marking rails, it would be our only dinghy...

My wife cut a pool noodle in half and sewed sunbrella covers for it. Snaps right over the existing rail. Our hull at contact point is a dark blue so the rubbing of the Porta Bote against our hull was more about noise than cosmetics.

[BlackHeron]

The new seats are lightweight but still do not hold up to the UV. After about 15 months ours are already cracking and rotting from the UV. Bote was brand new last year in January when we were in Vero. For at least a month of that time they were in the aft cabin when the bote was on deck in the NY Canals and when we went for a road trip visiting for a couple if weeks last spring. They are going to need some epoxy repair soon with fiberglass or a total rebuild with new materials.

The folding transom is a clever design but the use of floppy/flexible starboard was an awful choice. Fiberglass-encapsulated foam core would have been a better stiffer material. The flex is all in the starboard, not the hinges. The brace to the rear thwart seat helps onky a little, as the brace is also floppy starboard too
We may end up duplicating the folding transom parts, along with the seats. We only have a tiny 2hp 2 stroke on ours and although we have towed this boat from Florida to Canada and back, and then up to SC now, we have necer towed it more than a mile with the outboard attached to the transom. Just leaving rhe outboard on in a bumpy anchorage is very hard on it as the motor just flops around, shaking the transom a half foot back and forth, ecen with the brace, which does little ither than in compression. Our rivits are all pulling out of the starboard and the bolts slowly loosen up and need snugging as the plastic creeps. Amything heavier than our 22lb 2-stroke would only accelerate the inevitable end.

The new black gunnel tube plastic doesn't mar the hull we have found, but still makes a LOT of noise hip-tied to the sailboat. Can't stand the hard-plastic banging on the hull anywhere in the cabin belowdecks. We just hang a tiny double-ended fender from each seat and that quiets it right down and stops the banging on the hull.

[Marlincaptain]

We have been getting a lot of good information about the porta-bote after my post yesterday, thanks to the generous time to comment by forum members. Since Steve and I are both boat, kayak, snorkelers (at one time divers) and water lovers and due to limited options to get on the water while traveling in our rv (24' travel trailer), we are leaning towards the porta-bote, despite the transom and seat issues. My husband, Steve, is an engineer manager, build-your-own, and hands-on type of guy, along with owning boats (and still do) for 25-30 years, he will work out the faults in the transom, no doubt. Porta-bote's seemingly big sale (price reduction on everything, free shipping...) ends tomorrow and we have to decide if we make the leap of faith and order tomorrow or wait for another sale after we can actually touch one of these boats before purchasing. We were originally thinking about a 12' with 6 hp Suzuki or Yamaha (we are tried & blue Yamaha folks, but Yamaha motor is a smidge over the Suzuki in weight and the allowable weight per specs). Also, we see a lot of 10' porta-bote owners....and 2.5 hp owners (well within the range for working without reconstruction of the transom). Sooo, I ask everyone for their guts on the motor and boat size you would recommend. We, early 60s (combined weight 380), are primarily going to use boat for exploring large lakes at campgrounds (where wind probably a factor), the 2 of us and possibly our dog if recommended, and transport/store the hull piece on our truck's rack system that will run over the roof of our truck and find storage for the seats and motor probably in the truck bed (which has a bed cover). Concerns are the 10' vs 12' length of the hull above our truck roof, setup time, weight, draft vs. quality of boat ride. If you were to purchase a porta-bote for our situation, what would you buy for yourself and why? 10'? 12'? Motor size? folding seats (storage/comfort)? We were planning to purchase transport wheels. Don't believe we want to store the hull on top of the trailer (lifting weight) or on the rv ladder (not actually recommended by many trailer owners). Your time to send your comments greatly appreciated. Terri

[hpeer]

We have 10’ and 12’, and unfortunately combined weight is closer to 420 lbs. (working on that)

I think you could get by with a 10’ but would be happier with a 12’.

When reading weight specs be sure you understand what is being quoted. Hull only (I think) fully assembled. Look at the DIFFERENCE in weight between the two. Folded they are pretty stiff, that helps with handling.

I would go with the larger motor. But that depends upon use. It’s not uncommon for us to run 3 to 4 miles a day. That gets old quick with a 2hp unless you are way more patient than we are.

PB’s have this low bow, necessary because of the way it folds. So once you get into a certain size wave you want something more to keep from digging the bow in. I’m talking like 3’ to 4’ range. May well not ever be an issue on a lake. I’ve pushed the point a time or two. Never swamped it, yet.

In extreme we have carried:
Both of us - 420 lb
Motor - 60 lb
6 gal of gas - 40 lb
Anchors, Oars etc. - SWAG 60 lb
20 gals water - 140lb

That’s 720 lb in a 12’er. Not recommending, just illustrating.

[Hardhead]

I bought an 8 ft porta-bot, and 2.5 hp Suzuki outboard (internal tank), last summer. I highly recommend it - the 8 ft. boat will seat 4 people in a pinch, and has a LOT more volume than you would expect.

The 2.5 Suzuki only weighs 30 lb, and the boat and outboard combined are less than 100 lbs. 2 people and a reasonably sized dog would have no trouble in an 8 footer, IMO. 2.5 hp is actually more than enough power, given how light the boat is, and it has plenty of punch for wind & waves. Speed is like a fast jog - I haven't determined MPH by GPS yet.

IMO, a 10 footer, with a 4 hp would be a logical step-up, but with my family of 4, the 8 footer is just fine. I've had no problems at all with the transom, and it seems plenty sturdy from my experience. Ease of storage, and light weight, are the big benefits of the porta-boat, in my opinion. The cost is a little high, but when you factor it over 10 years, the extra cost will be forgotten, and for the convenience and functionality - it's well worth it, in my mind. I'd buy it again. For an RV, it would be a great addition.

[Mike OReilly]

I've got the older generation bote, so have no experience with the new transoms nor their issues. I haven't even seen one yet. Maybe this season I'll get to play with one (if we have a season).



I have the 10' portabote. Have used it for over a decade now with two different motherships. It has served us very well, and continues to do so. We use a 3.5 hp engine with it, but also row it just as often. I've also got the optional lateen rig for playing around in the anchorages. It's really just a toy, but it's kinda fun.


I chose the 10-footer due to size limitations of my main vessel. If I was buying today I'd go for the 12-footer.

[skipgundlach]

Bow waves...

We've had our 10' in 6' rollers. Going against them, it just climbed the hill (6HP, me on the back, wife on the middle seat). Coming back and downhill, I was worried we'd purl.

Instead, the nose flattened (raised the center in the process), carrying it higher and never a drop. Of course, going downhill, I'd throttled back, but otherwise did my normal WOT (15 knots people and gear typical) on the old Evinrude 6...

[zemurray]

we have the 8ft bote, new generation. bought last year. It’s working out well so far, no issues. the folding transom on ours works fine. I’m using the Torqeedo 1103 though, which is roughly 40lbs and about a 2hp equivalent. It’s not enough to plane, but even at 4 or 5kts, I dont see much flex in the transom. Ours has held up fine for almost a year. We tow it some times, but mostly fold it and put it on deck to store.

One note, the plastic hull material was a little tall where the fold over transom plate hinge was causing it to bind some. I ended up taking a razor knife and trimming it about 1/2 inch to keep it from binding in the hinge.

Also of note, my wife and i weigh 275 combined, sometimes we have a teenager with us. Never more than 3 in the bote so far but it handled 3 of us just fine. I wouldn’t want anyone else in there really

[ejlindahl]

I have an older ~2005 10' Genesis model Portabote and a newer ~2015 8 foot Alpha 1 with the integrated folding stern transom piece. I also had a 12' Genesis but sold it. My Alpha 1 stern piece is a sheet of aluminum, not starboard that someone mentioned up thread. There are 1.5" x 1.5" aluminum angle iron pieces that run athwartship that are part of the fixing system and also provide rigidity to the transom. I have not noticed the problem some have mentioned above with a flexible transom and rivets coming out. Also, I am surprised that some folks are comfortable with 4 people in the 8' bote. I would not be, unless in a small calm lake. I have had my 1980s 2 stroke 6 hp Evinrude on back of all of them. With just me its a pretty wild ride on the smaller botes, ok with the 12 footer. Be very careful not to get too jerky with turning the motor too fast, I'd be afraid to flip it. Easy enough to just back off on the throttle a bit. I use my 8 footer as a tender for my small sailboat and it works great for my wife and I, but in a big chop I take it easy. Water can come over the bow much easier than the 5 or 6 dingy's I've had over the years. The bow is so narrow that the bote does not ride up and over the waves as well as more common blunt nose dingys, like Livingstons or prams, but its light weigh and portability are so attractive that its still a good, maybe the best/only, option for many people, me included. My cruising ground is Puget Sound so I have to be careful if I'm not in protected water and if the wind and waves are up, or come up unexpectedly. I grew up in a boating family so am very comfortable around small boats. I've been messing in them solo since I was 4 or 5. When I use the 8 footer for cruising on my small sailboat I don't mess with the big motor, I have a 1990 Nissan 3.5 hp 2 stroke because it's only 29 lbs and I'm gitten older. It will plane my 8 footer at ~ 11 mph with my 190 lbs. It will barely plane at 8 or 9 mph if my 110 lbs wife is aboard with me. The 10 footer will plane much easier and be faster if my wife is aboard with that small motor. However if you don't mind lugging around a 5 or 6 hp motor I'd definitely get that. It will go around 15 mph which is very worth it in the many situations you'll wish you had more power; extra people or gear, head wind, racing get home ahead of that thunder storm, etc... I'd also get a 4 stroke because I think some lakes requre that, Tahoe?? Also I'd pick up an electric trolling motor and battery, maybe lithium if you are techie. There are lakes where that is the only option.

Be careful that your engine's drive leg does not touch the bottom of the boat when in gear and or going fast. Somewhere on the manufacturers website it warns against this and tells you to adjust the angle of the motor's drive leg away from the transom. Mine does this anyway even though it is in the last setting to keep it as far away as possible. I suppose that is the problem some folks have mentioned with a flexible transom. I tinkered around and was able to remove the pop rivet nail where the bottom skeg meets the transom. I was able to then tap some threads thru the pop rivet and afix a small piece stainless steel angle iron to those two pop rivets. To this piece of stainless steel I attached a ~1/4" thick, ~1/2" x 1" bit of hard plastic so that when the engine leg does rub on the aft end of the bottom of the transom it rubs on the bit of hard plastic, not the boat itself. The stainless steel makes a little spur when the boat is folded but its not a big deal. I don't have a pic of it but I'll try and post one later.

On my Genesis I've never had problems with the oft repeated lower transom attaching screw leaking. I wonder if those folks have the thick rubber washers backed up by big stainless steel fender washers for both inside and outside of the boat. The main reason not to get the 12 footer other than the extra few pounds, is if it doesn't fit where you plan to carry it, a real consideration for those who want to store the bote on the deck of a small or medium sailboat. You putting it on a truck rack will not have a problem. You can also get brackets to mount the bote, folded on the side of your RV. This is the reason I still have my 10 footer... for my RV. The company has pics of that on the website.

These boats don't row well, mainly because the sides are so flimsy where the oar locks go. Its frustrating if you are rowing against wind or are trying to get anywhere distant. I tried to beef the top, side, rails of the boat but it still was flimsy. I haven't bothered any further though I am a dyed in the wool tinkerer. You simply must have a motor. Get a kayak or SUP for those quiet sojourns, blow up or hard shell.

For what you are going to use it for I would get the older 12' Genesis. Mainly because it will plane easier, is safer in bigger water, carry more and the Genesis with the separate transom piece will be a little lighter than the newer, integrated transom piece, Alpha 1 model. The 12 footer will also be more stable plus less likely to get water over the bow, you really have to watch that if it gets choppy in bigger water. The Alpha with the integrated transom will save you a few minutes in set up but that is not a big deal considering it will take 15 or 30 minutes to get it off the truck and set up ready to go.

Its hard to predict how often you will be very close to the water so with RV use I would get the wheels, unless you are a DIYer. On the web I've seen some systems that might work better than the factory option.

Also there is a factory bow piece. I would definitely get that to protect just a bit more for water over the bow, but only marginally so. It is pretty flimsy but serviceable. It also gives the bote a more finished look. I made my bow piece because I wanted a bigger one with a spray deflector. I've posted it some where on this form. I'll try and find it.

Oh boy, you are in for a longer read now. When looking for a picture of my bow piece I found an even longer write up from a few years ago in the same folder. I'll copy it below. A lot will be redundant but I'm not going to spend any time editing it out. I also found a pic of my steering wheel which I wasn't going to mention but there it is. Like I said I'm a tinkerer. As you'll see I leave my boat set up on my small trimaran nets for weeks at a time while cruising so the wheel is worth the 10 or so minute set up time.

Ok, pasted below is the redundant document I found. Have fun.

I have a 10' and 8' bote. I used to have a 12' bote but sold it as I decided a smaller lighter package is better for me. I also have an 8' Achilles inflatable with the inflatable floor. I prefer the 8' bote mainly because it can withstand the rocky, barnacled beaches around here. I was always worried about popping the Achilles on the beach or when gunkholing in the rocky shallows.

With a 25 year old 3.5 Tohatsu the 8' bote planes at ~9-10 mph with me (185 lbs) and my wife (110 lbs). The Achilles will painfully just barely plane with just me at ~8 mph if I sit uncomfortably near the bow. The 10' bote planes much easier and a bit faster than the 8' bote so if you can fit a 10' or 12' I'd recommend either of those.

Rowing the 10' is better than the 8' or the Archilles. If its hot the flexy sides of the bote make rowing more difficult but doable. I added a 3' aluminum angle iron longitudinally along the cap rail that helps

I prefer my 8' bote over the 10' only because it fits, lashed alongside my cabin top, without blocking access to the cockpit. The 10 footer would make access less convenient in my particular situation. I like that the bote folds and stores easily lashed to the cabin sides for rough weather. It really is never in the way there, though it blocks the windows, (I don't have life lines or stanchions). However I almost always store the dingy (Archilles or unfolded bote) on my trimaran’s nets, even up to ~ 20 knots of wind and moderate wind waves. Though it can get hellish above that we have no real ocean seas in the Salish. I use an old indoor/outdoor 5' x 5' carpet to protect the nets when I pull the bote up onto them. I also rounded the transom's lower corner pieces and the skeg with a grinder for the same reason.

There are only 2 seats on the 8' bote so the seat "accessory" bundle is 2/3 the size of the bigger, 3 seat, 10 and 12 foot botes. I made a bag from an old sail that the seats, 2 piece oars and sundry items fit snuggly in. It is a sizable but tidy package and I have a good, out of the way place to store it under the cockpit. Note that the older botes have a separate transom board that adds to the accessory bundle size. On the newer botes the transom folds into the bote so the bundle is smaller. The full package Achilles is around 10 lbs lighter than the 8' bote but I use the bote for the reasons stated herein. I used to use my old 6 hp 2 stroke Evinrude which is plenty of power for both Achilles or Bote (maybe a little much) but my advancing arthritis and age has soured me on horsing the 56 lbs Evinrude onto the dingy. The 3.5 Tohatsu at 29 lbs is much easier on me. If I had a bigger boat with davits I'd use the 6 on the 10' boat. Unless you often carry a load I can't see using anything bigger than the 5 or 6 two stroke on the 10 or 12' bote

The bote is wobbly...... in a different way, and you get used to it, but the Archilles isn't that stable either. I think the flexing of the bote cushions the ride somewhat compared to other dingys I've been in.

One draw back of the bote is that the bow is quite low and I worry about large waves coming over it. I am alert to slow down to keep the nose up in those cases. I haven't had any mishaps but I'd worry if I had a long way to go against a stiff breeze and long fetch. The company does make a bow fitting that might help but I made a better one. I also made a steering wheel which I love for not having to hold the engine tiller behind me. I'll see if I can attach pictures of this and another one I saw online that's a little more hillbilly.

In an ideal world I'd have an alu bottom ~11' RIB with 20 hp on davits on a 40' condomaran.

Good luck. I like my bote Pics below

[ejlindahl]

Ok, I took a pic of the plastic piece to protect the outboard drive leg from rubbing against the transom at the skeg as mentioned in the second paragraph of post #178 above. You have to click on the picture, then expand it in order to read the text on the picture. Here is the paragraph copied from that post, you don't have to read it if you are following along:

Be careful that your engine's drive leg does not touch the bottom of the boat when in gear and or going fast. Somewhere on the manufacturers website it warns against this and tells you to adjust the angle of the motor's drive leg away from the transom. Mine does this anyway even though it is in the last setting to keep it as far away as possible. I suppose that is the problem some folks have mentioned with a flexible transom. I tinkered around and was able to remove the pop rivet nail where the bottom skeg meets the transom. I was able to then tap some threads thru the pop rivet and afix a small piece stainless steel angle iron to those two pop rivets. To this piece of stainless steel I attached a ~1/4" thick, ~1/2" x 1" bit of hard plastic so that when the engine leg does rub on the aft end of the bottom of the transom it rubs on the bit of hard plastic, not the boat itself. The stainless steel makes a little spur when the boat is folded but its not a big deal. I don't have a pic of it but I'll try and post one later.

[hpeer]

Up thread someone mentioned some aluminum pieces on the transom. I’ve seen that on the web site. And I also found an Australian blog talking about the boats. What I got from that was that PB was kicking around with the transom and seat design for a while. They made a few different arrangements. For a while it was “you get what you get.”

Also, I also had to shave down the transom bladder because it was a wee bit too high. Not a big deal but be careful as the knife can easily go off on its own and cut down instead of across.