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Tibor · 12-04-2017, 13:32

We have a Walker Bay 8 rigid dinghy.

Walker Bay has made this dinghy from the molded plastic.. You can retrofit your Walker Bay 8 with an added inflation tubes along the gunwales to increase capacity and appeal to the Rigid Inflatable 270 . This gives the dinghies a formidable amount of stability. Not only that but with the full kit you have a small sailing dinghy which can also be rowed or powered by a small outboard.

DnA9413 · 12-04-2017, 13:47

Thanks for all of the great advice. I have charter boat experience with RIBs, not all positive, that is driving my questions as I plan for the future.

My experience with rigid dinghy's is mostly around scuba diving off of Boston Whaler-type boats. I don't remember any particular issues around stability, as getting on both a RIB or a rigid in scuba gear required the assist of a ladder.

The feedback around getting a boat on a beach above the high-water line makes me think that a come-along would be handy, regardless of boat type.

For the folks that have had both types, I didn't see you mention the difference in maintenance costs/time, which I assume is significant based on the amount of posts I see in Forums like CF. I don't see a lot of maintenance-related posts for rigid dinghy's.

Also, I'm glad of the feedback about a rigid bumping the boat. I definitely would need to address those issues if I got a rigid boat.

Since I can't imagine wrestling a RIB or rigid boat up on the fore deck by muscle alone, if we plan on doing that I now understand I would need a system that provides significant mechanical advantage to get the boat properly positioned on and off of the mother ship.

I'm curious which type might perform better with an electric motor of the appropriate size - or does it make a difference? I have a goal of trying to buy a "one-fuel" boat - no propane or gasoline - just diesel. Electric outboards are my preference if they can perform the job.

Which brings me to another evaluation factor that I'm trying to understand - for bluewater cruisers - those moving around the world - how often is your dingy used just to ferry people to a destination less than 1 KM away? Less than 5 KM away? Over 10 KM? How often is the sea state at the whitecap range? How often are the conditions flat with little or no wind?

I'm trying to gauge how much capability I really need? I try to avoid buying anything based on the maximum use case that only occurs 5% of the time. As an example - for our house I get 5 cubic yards of mulch delivered every spring (in two weeks in fact). I pay someone to deliver the mulch instead of buying a pick-up truck to carry the mulch, as the mulch is the only gap in capability that our cars cannot bridge based on our lifestyles.

I don't want to overbuy on a dingy capability I don't need or won't use. I don't want to spend a lot of time/money on maintenance. I prefer to buy quality with the performance I need once.

I sincerely appreciate the great advice,

Dan

PortClydeMe · 12-04-2017, 14:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by DnA9413

Thanks for all of the great advice. I have charter boat experience with RIBs, not all positive, that is driving my questions as I plan for the future.

My experience with rigid dinghy's is mostly around scuba diving off of Boston Whaler-type boats. I don't remember any particular issues around stability, as getting on both a RIB or a rigid in scuba gear required the assist of a ladder.

The feedback around getting a boat on a beach above the high-water line makes me think that a come-along would be handy, regardless of boat type.

For the folks that have had both types, I didn't see you mention the difference in maintenance costs/time, which I assume is significant based on the amount of posts I see in Forums like CF. I don't see a lot of maintenance-related posts for rigid dinghy's.

Also, I'm glad of the feedback about a rigid bumping the boat. I definitely would need to address those issues if I got a rigid boat.

Since I can't imagine wrestling a RIB or rigid boat up on the fore deck by muscle alone, if we plan on doing that I now understand I would need a system that provides significant mechanical advantage to get the boat properly positioned on and off of the mother ship.

I'm curious which type might perform better with an electric motor of the appropriate size - or does it make a difference? I have a goal of trying to buy a "one-fuel" boat - no propane or gasoline - just diesel. Electric outboards are my preference if they can perform the job.

Which brings me to another evaluation factor that I'm trying to understand - for bluewater cruisers - those moving around the world - how often is your dingy used just to ferry people to a destination less than 1 KM away? Less than 5 KM away? Over 10 KM? How often is the sea state at the whitecap range? How often are the conditions flat with little or no wind?

I'm trying to gauge how much capability I really need? I try to avoid buying anything based on the maximum use case that only occurs 5% of the time. As an example - for our house I get 5 cubic yards of mulch delivered every spring (in two weeks in fact). I pay someone to deliver the mulch instead of buying a pick-up truck to carry the mulch, as the mulch is the only gap in capability that our cars cannot bridge based on our lifestyles.

I don't want to overbuy on a dingy capability I don't need or won't use. I don't want to spend a lot of time/money on maintenance. I prefer to buy quality with the performance I need once.

I sincerely appreciate the great advice,

Dan

If you have a small aluminum boat (think: '66 Starcraft - like I used to own), there is NO maintenance. Zero. Nothing. Does that answer your question? Not only that, they have styrofoam under each seat. They won't sink, unless you have a 250-hp Merc on the back (hahaha).

And, they last "forever". Stability? No problem. They don't just "flip over". Anyone who thinks they do has never been in one. Fast? Yup. On mine, we just used a 5.5-hp Johnson for years. Never a problem. With 4-6 adults, it flew along just fine. They "row" great also. Don't worry. Pulling up a beach? No problem. Hitting rocks? No problem. Nothing to worry about, ever. Over 10 kilometers? You just need enough "gas". That's all.

In addition, we owned a Boston Whaler. It's a completely different cup of tea. Great boats, but different than a light aluminum boat. That's all.

Inflatables eventually wear out, yet you can still find '60s Starcrafts for sale. That should answer a question or two for you. Aluminum lasts forever. No maintenance required ... other than "bailing it out" sometimes (haha).

Old Starcraft aside, the "Oceancraft" I originally posted about has a different "tube" design. I've never been on one, but it's probably even MORE stable. No problems. It's 75 kilos. Hoist it onto the foredeck, if you want.

In todays "disposable" society, I still prefer things that last forever. Why waste money?

DnA9413 · 12-04-2017, 14:24

Thanks @PortClydeMe! I'll definitely look at Oceancraft. My thought on the 45-50 boat I want to buy is to buy an aluminum yacht, like a Boreal or Garcia, so an aluminum dinghy would be appropriate.

Dan

PortClydeMe · 12-04-2017, 14:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by DnA9413

Thanks @PortClydeMe! I'll definitely look at Oceancraft. My thought on the 45-50 boat I want to buy is to buy an aluminum yacht, like a Boreal or Garcia, so an aluminum dinghy would be appropriate.

Dan

You're most welcome! By the way, the Oceancraft in the photo belongs to the SV Delos. A 53-foot Amel Super Maramu. They hoist it (with engine) onto their foredeck, where they keep it strapped down. Also, Whalers last forever too! We sold our '69 Whaler to a pal. He still runs it around. They never wear out.

Inflatable boats? NO THANKS!! (haha)

Cheers,

John

zedpassway · 12-04-2017, 16:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tibor

We have a Walker Bay 8 rigid dinghy.

Like I said above, I have the 10 footer.

ingrid75 · 12-04-2017, 19:58

For the first eight years of my cruising career I had both a hard dinghy and an inflatable. I found that I used the inflatable 90% of the time. It was easier to launch and recover, easier to beach, less prone to damage at the dinghy docks. more stable when carrying stuff, and, in general, just a better option than the rigid boat. The rigid boat was a lot of fun to sail and row but no matter how I tried to prevent it, it bumped into the "mother ship" constantly. It was very irritating. When my inflatable was stolen in Costa Rica, I was damned glad I had the second dinghy. But being forced to use it as a full time dinghy I realized that only an inflatable is a proper cruiser's tender. I shipped the rigid dinghy to my grandson from Hawaii so now he has a fun little sailboat.

UNCIVILIZED · 12-04-2017, 20:50

For those who are commenting on rigid dinks bumping the mothership all the time. Under what circumstances is this occurring, & what are you doing in terms of preventative measures? I ask as I've experienced very little of this. Though admittedly I've been handling boats, & dinks since I was 3, so a lot of techniques & tricks are pretty ingrained. Still, I'm curious to hear the other side of things.

As to hard dink maintenance. Every once in a great while you'll need to overhaul, or replace the following:
- the towing eye(s), & backing (plates) or same
- painter
- gunwale stiffening strips
- rubrail & rubrail fender(s)
- oarlock sockets (due to ovaling out with wear)
- outboard pad
- paint, inside & out, including non-skid on sole
- antifouling
- keel rub strip, due to wear from dragging her up the beach
- keel rubbing strakes (metal type)
- possibly your foam floatation or the gaskets on her sealable floatation compartments
- locking cable.
- re-bed all hardware, & check fasteners for wear/corrosion

David B · 12-04-2017, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by DnA9413

If I plan on getting a 45 to 50 ft blue water cruising boat with either davits or enough room on the foredeck to be lashed down, why do I want to get any version of inflatable dingy?

Inflatables seem to have a much shorter lifespan, higher maintenance requirements, less/no storage, and reduced performance compared with a rigid dinghy like a Boston Whaler tender.

But, most people seem to have inflatables, even when it seems like they never deflate them, so why get them?

I assume that inflatables weigh less and are easier to 'beach", are a little less expensive, but that seems to be all.

Any one know of any good articles comparing rigids (like a Whaler) versus inflatables?

Thanks,

Dan

Each to their own, but I wonder why people go for RIB's when you can get very similar performance from a modern rigid-floored inflatable.
We went for a Zodiac Fastroller 340. When pumped up, the floor gives us a reasonable 'Vee' to cut through chop, it will plane at 20 knots with two up and a 15HP on the back, and a demonstration of the rigidity in the air floors is on Zodiac's web site, where you see a guy holding at either end and a woman sitting in the middle of the bare floor (taken from the boat).

At the end of the season, with a RIB, you still have a hull to deal with. With a rigid-floored inflatable, you just roll the whole thing up, and put it in it's bag below.

For us, we deflate when we are doing a significant passage. With a Bravo electric inflator, it takes all of 5 minutes to have the whole thing ready to use again, and you don't have the potential issue of a tender strapped on the deck with green water trying to move it around - or worse.

When moored, we lift out of the water onto davits, or onto the deck each evening for security.

I don't understand the comment on maintenance - for us, the only maintenance is washing. With a RIB, it is out all the time, so that implies greater maintenance unless you remove the sponsons, and just leave the hull. Also, there is the constant movement of the bolt strips where the sponsons slide into the hull - another maintenance area over time with a RIB.

Another point is that a rigid-floored inflatable is lighter than a RIB - especially an FRP one, but even aluminium.

If I was going for a big sports inflatable, I would go for a RIB (and of course trailer), but for a yacht tender, for me there is no question.

That's my perspective from many years of having a Zodiac. I hope that helps.

David

PortClydeMe · 12-04-2017, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

As to hard dink maintenance. Every once in a great while you'll need to overhaul, or replace the following:
- the towing eye(s), & backing (plates) or same
- painter
- gunwale stiffening strips
- rubrail & rubrail fender(s)
- oarlock sockets (due to ovaling out with wear)
- outboard pad
- paint, inside & out, including non-skid on sole
- antifouling
- keel rub strip, due to wear from dragging her up the beach
- keel rubbing strakes (metal type)
- possibly your foam floatation or the gaskets on her sealable floatation compartments
- locking cable.
- re-bed all hardware, & check fasteners for wear/corrosion

I have no idea what boat you are talking about, yet an all-aluminum '66 Starcraft (which we owned and used INTENSELY for 40 years) needed NONE of what you just stated. We "rowed" the living "sh*t" out of that boat, motored the "sh*t" out of that boat, fished the "sh*t" out of that boat, did everything we could possibly do to that boat, and NONE of what you mentioned applies. Oh, we did need to BAIL IT some times, as rain likes to come falling down now and then. haha

The Johnson outboard needed maintenance, but the boat NEVER did. Oh well ... maybe today's aluminum boats just basically suck.

valhalla360 · 12-04-2017, 23:05

If your mother ship can handle the rigid dingy, I wouldn't mess with an inflatable.

If you are worried about bumping the mother ship, use a couple fenders.

The big issue with a rigid dingy is for the same size they tend to be heavier.

UNCIVILIZED · 13-04-2017, 04:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

As to hard dink maintenance. Every once in a great while you'll need to overhaul, or replace the following:
- the towing eye(s), & backing (plates) or same
- painter
- gunwale stiffening strips
- rubrail & rubrail fender(s)
- oarlock sockets (due to ovaling out with wear)
- outboard pad
- paint, inside & out, including non-skid on sole
- antifouling
- keel rub strip, due to wear from dragging her up the beach
- keel rubbing strakes (metal type)
- possibly your foam floatation or the gaskets on her sealable floatation compartments
- locking cable.
- re-bed all hardware, & check fasteners for wear/corrosion

Quote:

Originally Posted by PortClydeMe

I have no idea what boat you are talking about, yet an all-aluminum '66 Starcraft (which we owned and used INTENSELY for 40 years) needed NONE of what you just stated. We "rowed" the living "sh*t" out of that boat, motored the "sh*t" out of that boat, fished the "sh*t" out of that boat, did everything we could possibly do to that boat, and NONE of what you mentioned applies. Oh, we did need to BAIL IT some times, as rain likes to come falling down now and then. haha

The Johnson outboard needed maintenance, but the boat NEVER did. Oh well ... maybe today's aluminum boats just basically suck.

The labors of love ffor one's dink which I mentioned apply to wooden, & fiberglass dinks that see hard service. And it's just common sense that if for example, you drag a dink 100m (each way) up & down a beach once or twice a day, she'll need some TLC to her undersides. Specifically, new glass & perhaps wood (or metal) skid patches along the centerline.

Also, most of the other mentioned maintenance items will be applicable to most such dinks in their lifetimes if they see a lot of use, it's just the nature of boats. Period.

You can't tell me that you never replaced your painter, or the cable used to lock up everything on your dink. At least not with a straight face, can you?
And it only makes sense to attend to some things before they wear out, & either leave you stranded, or cause you to lose your dink. Whether it's the upkeep on a good pair of oars. Or a new coat of paint.

To state otherwise is fallacious. Look at the amount & types of upkeep that go into the mothership over a decade. Why would a dink be any different?