20V drill to hoist dinghy?

[mvweebles]

Originally Posted by aclmck

Try using a 20 volt rattle gun instead of a drill it’s designed to take off nuts so it has the torque needed . Personally I’d use a 12 volt rattle gun with a long cord/ lead to a battery (there area lot now made that plug into a car lighter socket and have the the power to remove car wheel nutsso this should do the job easily)

Like others have said though have you explored the use of small blocks to see how easy/difficult it might be by hand?and then a hand winch similar to a boat trailer

The boat trailer winches have two issues. First, they are galvanized and tend to rust. Second, there is no clutch when unwinding and they can freewheel. Total knuckle buster.

I thought about a multi part block and tackle - I have several old vangs laying around. But even at 5-part, it's a fair amount to lift if dingy is 300 lbs. And would be a pretty long length of line that, as someone else mentioned, would tend to twist.

Rule used to make a decent electric 12v winch. It lasted about 5 years before it totally rusted. I guess that will be Plan B behind the ST winch and using a cordless drill with winch adapter bit. The new lion drills are much more powerful than my old 18v Milwaukee NiCad. I've mixed 60 on sacks of cement with my drill. I have a couple 5amp battery packs. I'm pretty sure it will work fine, but thought I'd ask for prior experience. Worst case, either the Rule 12v winch, or Dewalt recently released a 60v drill that uses 20v/60v combo battery so I could still use it on my other tools. Expensive though.

Thanks all. I'll report back in a couple months.

[CassidyNZ]

When sailing in local waters, we have mostly just towed the dink behind. I have a dedicated hoist over the outboard bracket on the stern so that will still be used when I install the davits. Consequently my davit winch will lift just the dink which in my case weighs just on 100lbs and it will lift not more than 3ft. The little winch I’m contemplating will not have to work that hard.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Dave22q

Seems to me that a cheap mechanical winch similar to what you find on many boat trailers would do the job

Thats what we have at each side of our davits lifting a 330kg 725lb tender
3 speed winch with dyneema for $75 on ebay into its 3rd year of use, no rust, no loss of control or broken knuckles.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by aclmck

Try using a 20 volt rattle gun instead of a drill it’s designed to take off nuts so it has the torque needed .

I tried a 240V corded rattle gun.
Didnt work.

[Oceanride007]

Originally Posted by aclmck
Try using a 20 volt rattle gun instead of a drill it’s designed to take off nuts so it has the torque needed .
------------------------------------------------------------

"I tried a 240V corded rattle gun.
Didnt work."


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Don't do it, Not with anything thats got gear teeth anyway.

[aclmck]

Originally Posted by mvweebles

The boat trailer winches have two issues. First, they are galvanized and tend to rust. Second, there is no clutch when unwinding and they can freewheel. Total knuckle buster.

I thought about a multi part block and tackle - I have several old vangs laying around. But even at 5-part, it's a fair amount to lift if dingy is 300 lbs. And would be a pretty long length of line that, as someone else mentioned, would tend to twist.

Rule used to make a decent electric 12v winch. It lasted about 5 years before it totally rusted. I guess that will be Plan B behind the ST winch and using a cordless drill with winch adapter bit. The new lion drills are much more powerful than my old 18v Milwaukee NiCad. I've mixed 60 on sacks of cement with my drill. I have a couple 5amp battery packs. I'm pretty sure it will work fine, but thought I'd ask for prior experience. Worst case, either the Rule 12v winch, or Dewalt recently released a 60v drill that uses 20v/60v combo battery so I could still use it on my other tools. Expensive though.

Thanks all. I'll report back in a couple months.

They come in stainless these days and geared for both ways so no knuckle damage from winches, and no freewheeling, if using a block and the line is an issue feedthe tail into a bag ,bucket or a fishing line hand reel to keep it tidy

[Jim Cate]

Try using a 20 volt rattle gun instead of a drill it’s designed to take off nuts so it has the torque needed

I fear that this idea is flawed. While a rattle gun will break loose frozen nuts, it is instantaneous impact, not sustained torque such as required by running a winch.

Very different applications... no free lunch here, mate!

Jim

[aclmck]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I fear that this idea is flawed. While a rattle gun will break loose frozen nuts, it is instantaneous impact, not sustained torque such as required by running a winch.

Very different applications... no free lunch here, mate!

Jim

Hi Jim

Mine is a variable speed runs from nearly nothing through to ??? Rpm currently use it to lower a 30kg pump 55 metres down my bore I put a socket on it and raise and lower the submersible on a boat winch. Can go as slow as I would with a handle on it and it takes about 5 minutes to perform the operation,some might work like you say (same as air drive units) but most I have seen lately are variable speed

[darylat8750]

Originally Posted by aclmck

if using a block and the line is an issue feedthe tail into a bag ,bucket or a fishing line hand reel to keep it tidy

It's not that the block and tackle doesn't work. It just seems like there should be a better solution. My block and tackle system works ok for a while. It is hard enough that my wife can't raise it by herself. But even if I try to be careful about doing the figure 8 flake hang the line on the rail with a velcro loop, eventually I get line twist. I don't like to leave the dinghy in the water so I gets lifted at least once a day and sometimes several.

WRWAKEFIELD's reference in post 14 looks like it might work for me.

[darylat8750]

Not the way I will go but thought it might do some good for someone.....

https://www.amazon.com/WARN-910500-D...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[roland stockham]

Somwhere in this idea you need a big gearbox. Slowest drill speads are around 1800rpm and you want less than 100. I think there are power wrenches that will do that speed but a simpler idea may be to use a windlass.

[Jim Cate]

Slowest drill speads are around 1800rpm and you want less than 100

Our Milwaukee maxes out at 1000 rpm IIRC, and will run at very low speeds as determined by load and trigger position. And we've not had any problems with overheating or other damage from slow running despite worries posted upthread. Ours is now about 7 years of age and is used a LOT, as we are active cruisers. Batteries are showing signs of reduced capacity, however, and I suppose that replacement is in our future.

Jim

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by aclmck

Hi Jim

Mine is a variable speed runs from nearly nothing through to ??? Rpm currently use it to lower a 30kg pump 55 metres down my bore I put a socket on it and raise and lower the submersible on a boat winch. Can go as slow as I would with a handle on it and it takes about 5 minutes to perform the operation,some might work like you say (same as air drive units) but most I have seen lately are variable speed

INteresting! I'm not familiar with such a tool, so if you could attach a link or a name and model number I'd like to have a look at one.

Thanks,

Jim

[GILow]

One great (and cheap) source of low rpm, high torque DC motors is electric wheelchairs.

I made a motorised jockey wheel from one to help me manoeuvre our caravan around the yard.

[Sailing Drummer]

I use 2 trailer winches purchased at Walmart for about $30USD each. They are geared for both ways. Mine are galvanized and I expect to replace them every couple of years, no big deal. I use about a 1 1/2 purchase for the bow and about a 2 1/2 purchase for the stern. The 1/2 part is a guess as the lines go thru 1 slightly more than 90 degree turn and then 1 90 degree turn for the bow, and 2 extra 90 degree turns for the stern. Between the turning blocks and the winches, the boat comes up easily, with or without the motor attached.