2nd Anchor / Storm anchor Poll

[Cotemar]

What are you using as a 2nd Anchor / Storm anchor?

I have been using a Fortress FX 23 as a 2nd Anchor to launch from the dingy or from the bow cross beam roller for 4 years now.
40 feet of G4 chain
150 feet of 8 stranded plaited rode.
The anchor weighs 15 lbs. and the rode bucket weighs 59 lbs.
I should be able to set it up in just a few minutes.
Nice light weight high holding anchor

[charliehows]

is that one of those lightweight alloy danforths? I reckon danforths are underrated...

[gjordan]

On my first cruising boat (Contessa 26) I had a 25lb CQR and 30 fathoms of 5/16 proof coil chain. A 13lb Ht danforth as a backup with 30 feet of chain and 200 feet of 3 strand nylon. Also a 12 lb slipring imitation Danforth with about 20 feet of chain and 200 feet of 1/2 inch nylon. On my next boat(37 foot steel) I carried a 35lb CQR with 60 feet of heavy(3/8 or7/16 ) chain and 180 feet of 3/4inch nylon. I had an 85lb Northhill as a storm anchor with 50 or 60 feet of very heavy chain. I dont remember the size, and a 200 foot piece of 7/8 nylon. I never had to dig out this combination. I also had a 22lb HT Danforth on 20 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon, that I used as my carry out anchor. On my last boat (44 foot Peterson) I started out with a 45lb Danforth plow that dragged everywhere, and then bought a 60 lb CQR that worked well. I kept the Danforth plow and also had a 28 or 30 lb Danforth as a carryout. On some occasions I used all three plus many lines to the mangroves.____REMEMBER THAT MORE CRUISING BOATS ARE LOST TO POOR ANCHORING SKILLS THAN ARE EVER LOST TO POOR SAILING SKILLS.______Grant.

[Panope]

65 lb. Forfjord in a hawsepipe. Rode is 80 ft G4 5/16 chain then 350 ft 5/8 8 plait then another 15 ft of chain that is shackled to a strong point in the anchor locker. Pull one pin to deploy.

The reason for the chain at the bitter end is to be able to deploy the whole mess in an emergency and walk away. Chain will not chafe at hawsepipe exit.

Steve

P.S. I could not vote

[Ocean Girl]

Brand new Fortress FX-37. We bought it for a song from a friend that circumnavigated on a Cape Dory 40. They bought it for a storm anchor but never needed it. It is silly over sized for our boat, which is just fine with me

[rebel heart]

~30lb-ish Delta. One shot of 1/2", plus the multitude of 5/8" nylon on board.

I keep it next to the main anchor up on the roller. The few times I've needed a stern anchor it's easy enough to grab from up there. Keeping something permanently mounted astern seems like a bad use of space for the few times you'd ever launch it. Especially considering that a lot of the time you'll be in the dinghy with it anyway.

[rebel heart]

My "storm" anchor by the way is my normal anchor, a 60lb manson supreme. No idea why you wouldn't put out your biggest anchor as standard practice. I get all kinds of sneaky **** coming up in the middle of the night. If you're throwing hardware out, throw out the good stuff. It would be weird to drag knowing you have a better anchor sitting on deck.

[gjordan]

I agree with Rebel Heart, Put your biggest out first, then sleep well. I do like a light weight anchor ready on the stern since it is needed so often to keep you bow into the swell and not to spend the night rolling. Except for stowage like my 85lb Northhill, there is no reason not to put the biggest out first._____Grant.

[bobconnie]

Your wise beyond your years Rebel, best first !!

[gjordan]

Panope, you might want to reconsider the last 15 feet of your road being chain. The typical set up is all chain with the last bit as nylon so that you can cut the road on deck with a rigging knife if you have to slip the anchor. If you have nylon as a main road you might need an eye splice in the end of the main road , to an eye splice in the last sacrificial piece that goes to the strong point in the anchor locker. That way you can put a float line to the end of the main rode (outside of the pulpit) and cut the sacrificial line to set yourself free. It can be very hard to go below decks when things are going badly and try to drive out a pin under great pressure. ____Just a thought.___Grant.

[Sabbatical II]

My primary anchor is a hugely oversize 40kg Manson Ray (Bruce type) on 100m of chain. My secondary is a 25kg Rocna. The Rocna 25kg is about normal for my size of boat. I decided to use it as the back up because I suspect it may be of Chinese origin. Because the Manson flukes sit under the bow roller, it doesn't appear any bulkier than the much smaller Rocna. I can use the Manson at 2:1 as a lunch hook. With an electric windlass I think I might as well put the big one out first & if the wind pipes up I just let out more chain. It seems a lot easier to me that putting the wife in the dinghy to run out a second anchor. The Manson has never dragged even at only 3:1 in 40kts in a crowded Sydney anchorage. I could put the Rocna in front of the Manson Ray in tandem fashion if the forecast warranted it but hope I never have to.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by gjordan

Panope, you might want to reconsider the last 15 feet of your road being chain. The typical set up is all chain with the last bit as nylon so that you can cut the road on deck with a rigging knife if you have to slip the anchor. If you have nylon as a main road you might need an eye splice in the end of the main road , to an eye splice in the last sacrificial piece that goes to the strong point in the anchor locker. That way you can put a float line to the end of the main rode (outside of the pulpit) and cut the sacrificial line to set yourself free. It can be very hard to go below decks when things are going badly and try to drive out a pin under great pressure. ____Just a thought.___Grant.

Grant, Thanks for the advice. I set this up with the idea that it would only be used in some sort of "hail Mary" type of situation where I would be unable to deal with chafe. I would really like to retain the bitter end as chain. Perhaps an amsteel lashing (easily cut) at the strong point would be a good comprimise.

I shouldn't need a loop for tying a float line because a prusik not would never slip past the end chain. Or just tie small line directly to chain.

Years ago, my father spent many hours on Panope's fore deck during a 60kt blow. He fought chafe until he was completely encrusted in salt crystals and out of rode. Anchor was holding fine when rode parted. He was able to motorsail off the lee shore - barely. A piece of chain would have been very handy for that situation.

Regarding storm anchor:I also agree with Rebel Heart but would modify the rule to say "put out your best holding power anchor that will reliably reset itself as your primary anchor". In my case, My primary anchor (45 lb. Manson Supreme) has greater holding power than my #2 anchor (65lb. Forfjord) but weighs 20 lbs. less.

Steve

[Ocean Girl]

Panope, great post, great advice.

[noelex 77]

I believe when cruising the best philosophy is to use your "storm" anchor all the time. If your windless etc cannot cope with load how are you going to manage in storm conditions?

The Fortress is IMHO the outstanding second anchor. The light weight combined with good holding power is not equaled by any other anchor.
The similar Gardian provides a lower cost alternative, with most of the performance, if the budget is tight.

[Factor]

I know you have an unreasonable bias that has no basis in direct experience against Sarca Cotemar, that much is self evident. But thats no reason to not include it as an option on the poll.