3/4 Shackle failed < 2 years

[krissteyn]

I have used 5200 on a shackle , but normally just grease.

[captchetco]

Originally Posted by Benz

I have had nothing but trouble with galvanized hardware from China. IMO, it's worth the cost to upgrade to a decent domestic brand. Here it's Crosby. Chicago makes OK stuff--it corrodes more slowly than the chinese junk, but is still less good than Crosby. If you have different grades of steel (like G40 and G70) together underwater, this can cause some corrosion issues as well.
Finally, Lanocote or Tefgel on the threads is the best thing you can do for them.

Before retiring to cruise full time, I had a channdlery. During the years I owned it, the quality of shackles visibly declined. On most from marine suppliers, the only label became "China". I added Crosby to my inventory, and was pleasantly surprised how quickly experienced boaters, and all the commercial fish boats picked up on the better quality. Over the years cruising, I have seen many failures. They all have the same label. Buying cheap isn't always.

[Simi 60]

What are thoughts on shackle regalv?

We need to get our anchor chain re done soonish, was thinking of getting the beloved Manson Supreme done at the same time
Joining the two is a pair of relatively expensive and hard to source when living aboard, Van Beest shackles.

[Benz]

^^ Just keep 'em on the chain when you take it in. They galvanize by the pound, after all. Re-galving my Manson was a great thing to do.

[s/v Jedi]

No, I think the pin will loose much of it’s strength during hot dip galvanizing. When regalvanizing chain it is -the- time to replace the shackle. If a Van Beest is tough to source, get a Crosby or a Chicago Hardware. Next time it’s easy to source your favorite, stock up on them.

On another thought: everybody ought to have a new spare, so you can start using that, keep the old one as a temporary spare until a new one is sourced and delivered

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

No, I think the pin will loose much of it’s strength during hot dip galvanizing. When regalvanizing chain it is -the- time to replace the shackle. If a Van Beest is tough to source, get a Crosby or a Chicago Hardware. :

Crosby or Chicago would be even harder to get than Van Beest here.

The annoying part for me is there is no shortage of drop forged, rated, all claiming to meeting Aust Standards galv shackles on ebay for a fraction of the price and free freight.
All having the same markings as the "In House" brand shackles being sold by most of the lifting and chain stores.
But..........how would you know???

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x4-7T-R...141d%7Ciid%3A1

Next time it’s easy to source your favorite, stock up on them.

On another thought: everybody ought to have a new spare, so you can start using that, keep the old one as a temporary spare until a new one is sourced and delivered :thumb

Freight was the issue last time when getting the Van Beest gear.
The freight was about the same as the shackle cost but interestingly, this time I drop 8 shackles in the cart and freight is the same.
Buy in bulk seems to be the way, get a lifetime supply.

[Shaneesprit]

About Galvanising
It’s completely pointless, probably gives a couple of extra weeks of life nothing more.
When I took over the ownership of the mooring I have at the moment, the 5/8 chain had worn to about 3/16, Galv is only a surface treatment, so would not of made a Difference - a chain only costs a few 100s and it’s probably made in China as well but at least it has no working parts, if you want it to last longer buy thicker chains, just don’t apply that logic to shackles.
My shackle didn’t wear out it failed.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by Shaneesprit

About Galvanising
It’s completely pointless, probably gives a couple of extra weeks of life nothing more.
When I took over the ownership of the mooring I have at the moment, the 5/8 chain had worn to about 3/16, Galv is only a surface treatment, so would not of made a Difference - a chain only costs a few 100s and it’s probably made in China as well but at least it has no working parts, if you want it to last longer buy thicker chains, just don’t apply that logic to shackles.
My shackle didn’t wear out it failed.

I don't think the discussion was about moorings anymore: the galvanizing question was about a chain rode and anchor, and whether to do the shackles at the same time. Re-galving a mooring chain makes little sense.

[skenn_ie]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Crosby, Chicago. Don’t buy anything without SWL markings.

If any Chinese manufacturers read this, they will start PUTTING SWL marks on them. I believe that there is a town/city/factory complex called Germany, so they can say "Made in Germany" I bought some samples of "motorcycle" locks some years ago, immediately put a hacksaw to them, then threw then in the trash. One stroke with the saw cut a deep slot in them. Utter rubbish, probably not even steel, just iron. A bulk buyer will get any product, with any markings they ask for, but unless they have a rep in the factory, 24/7, to continuously check the raw materials, they will quickly substitute cheaper materials.

[conachair]

Originally Posted by skenn_ie

If any Chinese manufacturers read this, they will start PUTTING SWL marks on them.

Doubt if they would be that stupid. SWL isn't stamped on shackles, it's WLL....

[skenn_ie]

mousing is a term that I haven;'t come across before. Anyone care to explain ?

[Adelie]

Running seizing wire thru the hole in the shackle pin and around the shackle itself so the pin can unscrew itself.

[skenn_ie]

To show what Irish commercial boaters have to deal with, an inspector insisted that someone remove all the bronze fasteners and replace them with galvanised steel ones.

[BeforeIDie]

If I wanted to remove a shackle pin, I'd put grease on, but on a mooring that's the last thing you want!
Heat the end of the shackle pin and peen it over so it never comes off!
Don't try and save $10, you will get a good nights sleep.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by BeforeIDie

If I wanted to remove a shackle pin, I'd put grease on, but on a mooring that's the last thing you want!
Heat the end of the shackle pin and peen it over so it never comes off!
Don't try and save $10, you will get a good nights sleep.

You'd need a commercial diver, I expect, to attach that to the mooring