Visit our Popular Forums

sww914 · 17-03-2013, 06:04

I feel so much better now knowing that everything that I own might be hanging from Chinese chain.

zeehag · 17-03-2013, 06:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by sww914

I feel so much better now knowing that everything that I own might be hanging from Chinese chain.

la cruz is an equalizing factor--makes all galvo on all chain disappear, so it isnt gonna make much difference, as the chinese chain is known for bad galvo--no problem.
my new non chinese chain that was intact before la cruz now has only a tad of galvo remaining--just check your anchoring rig frequently--like every time you anchor and should be good, no matter what kind of chain you started with. then when you get to a place that does galvanization of chain, go for new galvo.....is what i have to do, even with non chinese chain.
it wont rust that fast--i think we have some time yet.

Kettlewell · 17-03-2013, 06:42

One thing I have done to lessen the load on the bow is split my 300 feet of chain into three pieces of 100 feet each. Where my boat is now 100 feet is plenty to be on all chain rode in every anchorage, but if I was going somewhere deeper I could join on another 100 or more. Of course I also keep 200 feet of nylon shackled onto the chain, but can't remember the last time I reached it. 100 feet of 5/16" fits in a five gallon pail and is liftable. I keep the extra further aft between the V-berths. Takes around 200 lbs out of the bow of the boat.

Obviously, your needs may vary, and it sounds like La Paz is a special case, even in rocky/coral anchorages.

zeehag · 17-03-2013, 06:50

mexico, and the entire west coat from alaska to cape horn has mountain tops under water in most anchorages. folks seem to think is sandy bottom, but they forget the geology of this area..all newly formed stuff from quake action...and some erosion. some volcanic stuff--erosion makes the sandy part, and quakes make the ocean be on and in mountain tops so we anchor on rocky stuff, and sail rocky lee shores.
chain is only way to protect your investment and keep your stuff safe from breaking away while at anchor--
kettlewell--dont forget the weakest link is the added link to connect all the lengths...is safer sans quicklink and keeping the chain all one piece. but the regular inspection and replacement can help in saving boat from gone...
i now have 250+194 ft in bow--all 5/16 chain, and a 30 kg bruce and a 45 pound cqr in place on rollers on sprit. boat likes the weight,and wants more added in other places on board.

Kettlewell · 17-03-2013, 06:55

I use two high-test shackles to join lengths of chain, which means I have to lift that bit over the windlass gypsy. I figure if I trust the boat to a high-test shackle where the chain joins the anchor I can trust two of them joining lengths of chain.

I don't trust ordinary split links either, but there are stronger chain connectors available that look reliable. I think Jedi has shown one on here recently.

zeehag · 17-03-2013, 07:02

if they have developed a good link addition system, i wanna know!!

mebbe they can test it really hard by time i can afford it----could come in handy when and if i need deep water anchoring...

KrazySailing · 17-03-2013, 07:12

As has been pointed out before "Made in China" is not like saying "It's Crap". Think of brand names like Apple, Walmart etc. all made in China. I think "Made in China" is OK if there is excellent quality control and I hope CMP has learned form the Ronca incident.

Kettlewell · 17-03-2013, 07:22

Quote:

I think "Made in China" is OK if there is excellent quality control and I hope CMP has learned form the Ronca incident.

I agree, but the catch is that no matter what the quality control the end user has no way of knowing, and we have seen so many reports of sub-standard Chinese metalwork that people who trust their lives to this stuff are understandably cautious. A couple of summers ago a guy lost his engine and called out for help as he sailed downwind into the marina. I ran down and caught one of his lines, but had to snub it off pretty hard in order to prevent him from T-boning the cross dock. The perfectly normal looking galvanized metal dock cleat just snapped in half. After helping him secure the boat, I took a look at the cleat and it said Made in China on it. It appeared to be some sort of casting with lots of voids in it. That type of thing is what makes us wary about Made in China. How do you know what the quality control is like?

conachair · 17-03-2013, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrazySailing

As has been pointed out before "Made in China" is not like saying "It's Crap". Think of brand names like Apple, Walmart etc. all made in China. I think "Made in China" is OK if there is excellent quality control and I hope CMP has learned form the Ronca incident.

Bear in mind the wrong spec was going on with rocna before CMP bought the company, CMP weren't involved with that incident, it wasn't on their watch.

**boatman61** · 17-03-2013, 07:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

I agree, but the catch is that no matter what the quality control the end user has no way of knowing, and we have seen so many reports of sub-standard Chinese metalwork that people who trust their lives to this stuff are understandably cautious. A couple of summers ago a guy lost his engine and called out for help as he sailed downwind into the marina. I ran down and caught one of his lines, but had to snub it off pretty hard in order to prevent him from T-boning the cross dock. The perfectly normal looking galvanized metal dock cleat just snapped in half. After helping him secure the boat, I took a look at the cleat and it said Made in China on it. It appeared to be some sort of casting with lots of voids in it. That type of thing is what makes us wary about Made in China. How do you know what the quality control is like?

Or... be wary of Cheapskate Marina's... Chinese shops here (more every day

) usually have at least 2 types of the same thing.. the crap is 1 - 1.5 euro... the stuff you can use 2 or more times is 4.50+... Ya gets what ya pays for.. even with commies..

SailFastTri · 17-03-2013, 07:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

I use two high-test shackles to join lengths of chain, which means I have to lift that bit over the windlass gypsy. I figure if I trust the boat to a high-test shackle where the chain joins the anchor I can trust two of them joining lengths of chain.

I don't trust ordinary split links either, but there are stronger chain connectors available that look reliable. I think Jedi has shown one on here recently.

Evans Estarzinger posted somewhere that he's used a connecting link such as this Oval Connecting Links on Peerless Chain Co. to join lengths of chain. He wrote that he uses an adhesive sealant between the halves, and mouses them together with wire. Then he backs up the connection with small-diameter Dyneema lashings which are collectively as strong as the chain itself. The whole connection runs smoothly through his windlass. This is the route I'd go if joining chain. (IMHO, Evans is a very credible tester and with thousands of miles of cruising in multiple circumnavigations, including lots of experience with high latitude anchoring).

I'd go up one size on the connecting link. The one link should still run through the gypsy even if its a poor fit.

KrazySailing · 17-03-2013, 07:57

My motto: If my life depends upon it and it's "Made in China", do not buy it!

Kettlewell · 17-03-2013, 08:05

Here's a good series of tests on various chain connectors. The bottom line is that what he calls "C links" (and I believe are similar to those Peerless connecting links) were only half as strong as the chain. I wouldn't use those.

**estarzinger** · 17-03-2013, 08:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Here's a good series of tests on various chain connectors. The bottom line is that what he calls "C links" (and I believe are similar to those Peerless connecting links) were only half as strong as the chain. I wouldn't use those.

You should read the notes at the bottom of those test results. . . Basically he tested a known crap product (and said so in the notes) ....

"C-link results were particularly disappointing, although it must be emphasised that Plastimo do not recommend these fittings for anything other than temporary service. Other manufacturers state their product to be stronger than similar sized chain but these were not tested as they are not obtainable in a UK chandlery."

You also sound like you are comparing the working load of high test chain to regular test connecting links. That's not apples to apples. Of course the regular test is going to be lower working load than the high test (but by the way be less brittle). Regular test links have exactly the same rated working load as regular test chain, and high test connecting links (harder to find, usually need to special order) have exactly the same working load as high test chain.