40 Ft. - Windlass Choices

[belizesailor]

Have not used VWC1500 so can't really compare. I assume from looking at it that primary diff is power of motor and larger size of gypsy/capstan.

Looks like clutch/manual operation mechanism is different too. That could be a plus because manual retrieval on the RC is not very practical due to minimal leverage or mechanical advantage and shallow fitting for the winch handle (not very secure if you really try to put a load on it). Just hauling up by hand I think is more practical with the RC.

[Paul L]

FWIW: I've had 2 Lewmars and 1 Lofrans. The Lofrans was superior functionality and quality.

[Terra Nova]

My Maxwell Nilsson is all chrome bronze. The last Lofrans I removed was made of aluminum and simply wasted away like an Alka-Seltzer tablet.

[tmayo]

We just replaced our 20yr old, Simpson Lawrence manual with a Maxwell HRC10-8, drum/capstan, chain counter, wireless control unit with wired option at helm, no switches. Have Spade 44lb and Delta 45lb with 300' 5/16 G4 and a combo chain/rope on the other.

Works absolutely perfectly on our dock in a canal here in FL! Pretty darn neat watching the chain deploy and effortlessly retrieved. Leaving for Bahamas and points south in November so will get lots of use then, hopefully with same results when the fascination and 'newness' wears off.

[darylat8750]

I have a preference for bronze over aluminum.

I haven't seen the new ones but my 30+ year old Maxwell/Nillson is bronze with what I think was nickel plating. The above deck parts are showing some wear but when I took the gear box apart no interior parts needed replacing. Hard to find local shop to nickel plate so the above deck parts are out getting hard chrome plating. I hope it lasts half as well as the nickel.....

[ozsailer]

Hi David,
on our last boat I bought a new Maxwell HRC 10/8 with capstan. I found it very easy to use and reliable although it was only on the boat for 18 months prior to us selling it. It was an easy install. The solenoid is very well built and also easy to install. As we used it in free fall when dropping anchor the wife always found it easy to deploy while I was on the helm. Our boat was a 38 ft sloop with a weight of around 8.5 ton. We had 100 metres of 8mm chain and it was never an issue raising the anchor.
The winch on the boat we have just bought (Lagoon 41 Catamaran) is on its way out and we will be replacing it with the HRC 10/10 (for 10mm chain). We also found that Maxwell were very well priced for what you were buying with great back up. I don't think you would be disappointed in buying the one your looking at. One thing to take into consideration is the current footprint of your existing windlass and how the new one will fit in case it needs some modification on the boat.


Greg and Sue
Lake Macquarie NSW
Australia

[DDabs]

ozsailer, thanks for the post. I am leaning more and more towards the Maxwell, just need to decide which model. Fortunately (I guess), the boat has never had a windlass installed, so it will be a clean install.

[downunder]

Originally Posted by ozsailer

Hi David,
on our last boat I bought a new Maxwell HRC 10/8 with capstan. I found it very easy to use and reliable although it was only on the boat for 18 months prior to us selling it. It was an easy install. The solenoid is very well built and also easy to install. As we used it in free fall when dropping anchor the wife always found it easy to deploy while I was on the helm. Our boat was a 38 ft sloop with a weight of around 8.5 ton. We had 100 metres of 8mm chain and it was never an issue raising the anchor.
The winch on the boat we have just bought (Lagoon 41 Catamaran) is on its way out and we will be replacing it with the HRC 10/10 (for 10mm chain). We also found that Maxwell were very well priced for what you were buying with great back up. I don't think you would be disappointed in buying the one your looking at. One thing to take into consideration is the current footprint of your existing windlass and how the new one will fit in case it needs some modification on the boat.


Greg and Sue
Lake Macquarie NSW
Australia

The standard L400 anchor winche are terribly undersize. Trip out easily if you have any load. Think they are Quicks.

Cheers

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

My Maxwell Nilsson is all chrome bronze. The last Lofrans I removed was made of aluminum and simply wasted away like an Alka-Seltzer tablet.

My Lofrans was chromed bronze. It was a much better windlass than the Lewmars. The motor cases didn't instantly rust. The goes out speed was 1.5 times the Lewmars. And the overall quality just seemed a lot better. I currently have a Lewmar V3 (or V2 can't remember) on my boat. It is slow to run chain out. I know I can let it free fall, but I had to add some nylon spacers to get the lock/unlock on the gypsy to work correctly and it is still a pain to use a winch handle to let it free fall. The motor casing has significant rust, even though I have re-paint it and use an anti-corrosion spray. The Lewmar manual even notes this will happen and you should repaint. It didn't happen with the Lofrans.
edit: Not really promoting Lofrans, just saying I'd stay away from the Lewmar.

[bob_77903]

I have the Maxwell RC-10-10, 4 years old. No problems at all. Use the rope capstan to run up the mast. Is rugged and very well made...

[chouliha]

Have you looked at the Lighthouse windlass? We have had one onboard full time cruising since 2005 and it's been great.
Chuck

[zboss]

After much research, We ordered an Ideal windlass. I'm still waiting because they are on a two month backup. These robust windlasses are only a little more expensive than the maxwells but I believe, based on my research and discussions with those more experienced at windlass selection, to be far superior than the maxwells. They continue to successfully rebuild these windlass after decades of service.

[noelex 77]

I would go with the Maxwell out of the two. Muir also make excellent anchor winches.

It is important to get the installation right. Check the drop is adequate. The windlass need to mounted on a reinforced area of the deck. Double check the gypsy is compatible with your chain.

Vertical windlasses have always seemed a slightly stupid design to me. The hole for the chain (which always brings some salt water in with it) is above and very close to to windlass motor and gearbox. The motor in particular is vulnerable to salt water damage. With my installation I went to some trouble to ensure the water from the chain cannot get to the gearbox and motor. This involved constructing a separate aluminium chain deflector plate extending below the motor and gearbox with a simple Sunbrella splash guard underneath. An easier, but slightly less effective solution is a pipe extending the chain hole below the level of the winch.

Some windlass models are available where the chain entry into the anchor well is separate from the gypsy. This enables the distance between the motor and the saltwater entry to be separated much more than the customary two inches.
This is worth considering on a new install.

I also installed a bilge blowing fan to blow cold air over the gypsy motor. Most (all?) of the electric anchor winch motors are only rated for intermittent operation. The fan makes a practical difference in keeping the motor cool. Whether this extends the motors life, or performance is difficult to know but it is easy and cheap to do (although I have never seen anyone else do it)

[belizesailor]

Noelex, good ideas, while you're at it an automatic chain flaker would be handy....its amazing how high of a peak some windlasses can stack up in the chain.

[DDabs]

Great ideas. Going with a Maxwell windlass.