Adding a weight on anchor chain

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by beirutsailor

"Looking at the results we have a group of anchors — call them “old generation,” the CQR, Delta, and Bruce — that might have a holding capacity of 750kg for a 15kg anchor set properly in a good holding seabed. We have another group of anchors, the “new generation,” Fortress, Spade, Super SARCA, SARCA Excel, Manson Supreme and Kobra — that have a holding capacity of 1500kg for the same weighted 15kg anchor." from
http://www.mysailing.com.au/news/testing-the-new-generation-of-anchors

fortress anchors being classed an new generation . That's a new one on me .
Considering that basic design has been in use since ww2 .

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by kristjan

Surely, for the winter you can find somewhere an old engine block to make a mooring out off, and spread an anchor or two off that block? Depth at high tide length of chain and a float to twice that of line with a float halfway.

What, so dump some large lump of oily metal in the water with little hope if any of retrieval?

[Compass790]

Danforth is a good mud anchor if it doesn't get anything stuck in flukes. Having a weight will help if the wind comes in gusts as it irons out the shockloads somewhat. Agree with snubber too. We use a 3 metre length of 12mm dia o-ring rubber on a 26ft boat that stops the jerking in waves or gusts. A tractor inner tube or similar mite work if you cant find any other rubber .

[GrowleyMonster]

Mooring. Yes. Swivel? Nah. Failure point, IMHO. Make the mooring cable a braid or plait rope, as big as you can get so if the boat spins around on her mooring, the twist won't cause any grief. Cast concrete mooring anchor? Yes, that is a nice cheap way to go. Cast some REALLY BIG chain in it to allow for a few years of wastage. Or some old ships mooring line. Engine block? Sure, but make it a big V8 or a truck diesel. You can probly pick up a cracked block for a couple hundred bucks if you are resourceful. A couple of old junk anchors on the mooring will help prevent it from dragging until it has subsided deeply into the mud. If possible, leave a chart plotter or a phone running OCPN running, with tracking enabled. When you see the boat has circled the mooring a bunch of times in one direction, cast off and let the twists unwind, then hook up again. Probably half of all mooring failures are result of the swivel letting go. Nice to have one, but not strictly necessary, and can fail. Smart money is on not having one, or else using a quality one and replacing it regularly.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by beirutsailor

We have another group of anchors, the “new generation,” Fortress, Spade, Super SARCA, SARCA Excel, Manson Supreme and Kobra

There is no clear definition of “new generation” anchors, but that is certainly an odd list.

Rather than focus on the definition, anchor performance is what is important. The Kobra is great value. It is close to the cheapest name brand anchor available. In most countries it is 2/3 the price of the Delta. For this price it has great performance, but it is a long way short of true “new generation” designs.

Medium mud, where the OP wants to anchor is one of the easiest substrates. This minimises the effects of inferior anchor design, nevertheless the small fluke area and convex fluke design of the Kobra cannot compete with the best anchors in my view.

A 15kg Kobra on a 35 foot boat with perhaps shortish scopes, and gusts to 50knots is not an encouraging combination.

[GeneM]

Normally a kellet isn't needed if the anchor has a good length of chain on it. I'd use a Danforth for mud. Maybe two, so they cover 180 deg of wind change. They don't need to be big because they will dig in deep. Put them both off the bow and 180 deg on the prevailing wind or with the most fetch. Use lots of scope for 50 kts.

[boatman61]

I assume you are anchored in the 'bowl' close to the jetty and town other than in the causeway by the fancy house on the hill..
Are you a live aboard? have you a kedge anchor?
If a live aboard I would move the boat and lay a longer scope from the bow opposite the house and lay a kedge anchor of your stern..
This will place you fore and aft to the tide as it ebbs and flows, allow you more scope each end and no swinging and you'll be facing E to W, shelter should be adequate from the S with breakwater and dunes the other side of the marsh.
Its where I always anchor in Alvor.. downside your further from the dock and town.. in summer thats a plus..

[Taipe]

When unable to let out enough scope to keep the anchor buried, a kellet can be invaluable in getting a lower angle of pull on the anchor in order to reduce the risk of it pulling out, but also needs to be adjusted along the length of the chain at a point that allows the bow to ride up on each wave to take some of the stress off of the chain while in the trough of the waves. This point of adjustment will depend upon the height of the waves. But, as Don points out, the chain must be long enough to allow this to occur. A kellet must have adequate scope to work with.



And up on deck, a bridle can divide the strain onto two deck attachments or bollards either of which are designed to take the strain and not put any of it on the anchor windlass, a bowsprit, or a chain hook that is attached at only one deck fitting.

[KP44]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Unfortunately the kellet doesn't give what an anchor needs, more scope. Sinking a Myth – The Anchor Kellet

Now I understand that a good snubber will be much better than a kellet. Thank you.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Unfortunately the kellet doesn't give what an anchor needs, more scope. It may be of use in dampening the shock loads, but for holding power, once the anchor rode is pulled taut, if things get that bad, the scope is what will determine if the anchor will continue to hold, given that it is big enough in the first place.
Sinking a Myth – The Anchor Kellet
I would concede that it makes it harder for the rode to be pulled taut though.

proper bridle and snubbed is better than a kellet.

[Jim Cate]

the way I see it, a kellet, especially a pretty heavy one, absorbs a lot of energy as it is lifted off the bottom. This is exactly the same as energy absorbed in lifting the chain up. The benefit isn't in ultimate holding power in very strong sustained winds, where the rode is nearly straight, but in helping the snubber absorb energy in the response to gusts. IE, the kellet reduces loads on the snubber and that in turn helps avoid snubber failure.

No magic bullet, but can be a help, especially in gusty conditions. In sustained high winds the scope is what determines the angle with which the rode pulls on the anchor and I guess that is kinda immutable: more scope is better!

Jim

[Don C L]

Another negative about an unusually heavy kellet placed too close to the boat, or a short mooring line, is a good deal of force is applied down on the bow and on whatever roller, or snubber and/or bridle it has. This applies a lot of downward force on the bow, just like added weight to the bow, which reduces its flotation, as the bow has to lift that weight with each wave. This may not be a problem if the fittings are up to the challenge, and there is no concern about swells breaking over the bow, but with the correct amount of rode out, i.e. the correct scope, there is far less strain downward on the bow and its fittings, and the bow is more responsive to oncoming waves.

[Popeye2]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Another negative about an unusually heavy kellet placed too close to the boat, or a short mooring line, is a good deal of force is applied down on the bow and on whatever roller, or snubber and/or bridle it has. This applies a lot of downward force on the bow, just like added weight to the bow, which reduces its flotation, as the bow has to lift that weight with each wave. This may not be a problem if the fittings are up to the challenge, and there is no concern about swells breaking over the bow, but with the correct amount of rode out, i.e. the correct scope, there is far less strain downward on the bow and its fittings, and the bow is more responsive to oncoming waves.

Good point. Had not thought of that.

[Popeye2]

Originally Posted by newhaul

proper bridle and snubbed is better than a kellet.

Yes. Very helpful. Thanks

[Popeye2]

Originally Posted by boatman61

I assume you are anchored in the 'bowl' close to the jetty and town other than in the causeway by the fancy house on the hill..
Are you a live aboard? have you a kedge anchor?
If a live aboard I would move the boat and lay a longer scope from the bow opposite the house and lay a kedge anchor of your stern..
This will place you fore and aft to the tide as it ebbs and flows, allow you more scope each end and no swinging and you'll be facing E to W, shelter should be adequate from the S with breakwater and dunes the other side of the marsh.
Its where I always anchor in Alvor.. downside your further from the dock and town.. in summer thats a plus..

A liveabord, currently in the bowl, I am planning to move to the house. Never saw two anchors there. Makes sense as you describe it. Don't have a good anchor for behind. Guess I could buy a new one. Did you come in winter or experience a blow here?