All Chain Rode Opinions

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by cfarrar

Good points, estarzinger. I would only say that it's less about the 1/100th of a knot and more about pitch stability = more green water over the bow (for my boat, anyway).

Agreed. Fortunately much of 'long distance cruising' is off the wind.

What we have done on both our voyages/boats is divide our chain into two pieces and 'normally' have half in the bow and half in the bilge in the center of the boat. Then for the pacific and chile and med-mooring locations, wbring out the second half and put it in the bow. That way we are not carrying the extra chain weight in the bow in locations where we will not be using it.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by estarzinger

Agreed. Fortunately much of 'long distance cruising' is off the wind.

What we have done on both our voyages/boats is divide our chain into two pieces and 'normally' have half in the bow and half in the bilge in the center of the boat. Then for the pacific and chile and med-mooring locations, wbring out the second half and put it in the bow. That way we are not carrying the extra chain weight in the bow in locations where we will not be using it.

Interesting.

I know that ACCO makes a strength compatible "H connector", with hardened pins, for end to end chain connections. Is this what you use?

Doesn't it create a problem when the "connection" reaches the gypsy, with the chain weighing more than can be fed around by hand???

M.

[ADMPRTR]

I just received a call that my chain has arrived so I guess at this point it is a bit of mute point on if that was the right decision or not. I could still change the order to smaller quantity but for the most part, I am satisfied with my decision, figuring that I can modify it later if need be. We have a deep draft boat (6'3") and I typically prefer a little breathing room so having the option for extra scope is desirable. And after dragging last year I look forward to having a good nights sleep.

Thank you again everyone for your comments.

Andrew

[Capt.Don]

Great question/thread - I was thinking to ask the same question! On our 35' boat, currently coastal cruising in S. California, we have 180' 5/16 chain and only 30' nylon. First point, 210' limits our our anchoring depths to 30'-50'. I'd like more rode. Due to the weight issues on the bow, I'm debating reducing the chain to ~100' and increasing the nylon for a total of 300'. Plenty of room in the anchor locker, so space is not an issue. Comments?

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

Interesting.

I know that ACCO makes a strength compatible "H connector", with hardened pins, for end to end chain connections. Is this what you use?

Doesn't it create a problem when the "connection" reaches the gypsy, with the chain weighing more than can be fed around by hand???

M.

We have discussed chain connections in other threads . . . I have a couple of those H connectors on board but have never used them.

I use either a spectra lashing alone (stronger than the chain, tied to be the length of one chain link) or a 'connecting link plus the spectra lashing' (in which case the spectra lashing is longer to 'back up' the connecting link) when I am feeling in a 'belt and suspenders' mood and am worried about the slight possibility of the spectra lashing being cut. Both run thru the windless just fine.

I actually have never tried running the H link thru the windless. I should try it sometime - has anyone else - does it run smoothly or not?

[Jim Cate]

G'Day all,

I would like to back up Evans' observation that in the world of long term cruisers, essentially everyone uses all chain rodes. Length carried varies somewhat as does preference of size, but one hardly ever sees a nylon rode on boats that are a long way from home. When one must anchor in areas of unknown bottom conditions and often murky water, the risk of fouling/chafing a nylon rode is just too high for most of us to tolerate.

On the size of chain issue, one not yet mentioned advantage of using larger chain is that it will still have adequate strength after suffering the wear and tear of constant use. If you start out with "overkill" chain you worry less about it as it ages. We've always used 3/8" or 10mm chain, both on this boat and our previous 36 footer, and have never had to replace it (as reported above) at 3 year intervals due to wear.

The plan that Evans uses -- only having the appropriate length of chain forward in the chain locker -- seems a very good one. And we have used the "hammer together c-shaped" joining links successfully for 24 years now -- another place where having "overkill" chain means less worry.

So, for the OP, I think that you have done the right thing if you indeed are intending to go seriously cruising. Happy sailing and anchoring to you.

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Morning Cove, NSW, Oz

[Kettlewell]

I would like to back up Evans' observation that in the world of long term cruisers, essentially everyone uses all chain rodes.

Depends on where you are and where you are going. Here on the East Coast we have a lot of snowbirds who have been out for many years, if not decades, and a lot of them use a combo nylon and chain rode due to the shallow depths and lack of coral, etc. on the bottom. Go further down to the Bahamas and more are on all chain, and further still to the Caribbean and probably the majority are on all chain. I imagine it is that way in the Pacific too.

[delmarrey]

The only down fall I see to all chain is if you have to cut it loose for some reason.

I had an emergency situation once where my anchor got caught under a bridge piling. If I would have had to get out a hacksaw, the time involved would have cost me my mast. I was able to pull out a pocket knife and cut it right on the spot. And the cost was just for another anchor and 60' chain, in which I carry spares anyway and still saved 250' of rode.

I consider an anchor and chain perishable items. A quick inspection every time winching in the gear saves worries. Maybe on something over 45' I would consider all chain. If I were going to be in one spot for a long time or in heavy weather I would change gear. But that's my opine.

And, I thought it is suppose to be unethical these days to anchor in coral? In most places I've been people have set up floats (empty plastic jugs) with a large line tied to a big coral head and just tie off to the line. Some countries frown on anchor chains tearing up their reefs.

[Kettlewell]

In coral areas there are often chunks of dead coral rock on the bottom in areas where people anchor, or nearby coral heads. Everyone tries to avoid these things, but it is not always easy as there are sometimes isolated heads surrounded by beautiful sandy bottom perfect for anchoring. And then some folks drag too...

[boatman61]

[QUOTE=delmarrey;634610]The only down fall I see to all chain is if you have to cut it loose for some reason.

I had an emergency situation once where my anchor got caught under a bridge piling. If I would have had to get out a hacksaw, the time involved would have cost me my mast. I was able to pull out a pocket knife and cut it right on the spot. And the cost was just for another anchor and 60' chain, in which I carry spares anyway and still saved 250' of rode.
QUOTE]

This is where you have a quick release plan.... mine is tie a fender to the chain then cut the securing line in the locker.... go back at my leisure to pick it up..
What the hell were you anchored to a bridge piling for...???

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Depends on where you are and where you are going. Here on the East Coast we have a lot of snowbirds who have been out for many years, if not decades, and a lot of them use a combo nylon and chain rode due to the shallow depths and lack of coral, etc. on the bottom. Go further down to the Bahamas and more are on all chain, and further still to the Caribbean and probably the majority are on all chain. I imagine it is that way in the Pacific too.

Sorry, I should have said long term, long distance cruisers... that is, as I said a bit further in, folks who have to anchor in waters and bottoms unfamiliar to them.

Cheers,

Jim

[boatman61]

Yup......!!
unfamiliar bottoms can be a handfull....

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Boatman61

What the hell were you anchored to a bridge piling for...???

I did tie a fender to the chain before I cut it loose but the bridge crew said I was not allowed to dive down under the bridge, so they cut it away.

I lost my motor while waiting for a bridge opening and a barge to pass by. As well, the river tide was flowing towards the bridge.....................That was a bad summer!

Better yet just goto this thread; http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...wns-29938.html

[Kettlewell]

Agree that long-range cruisers use chain. One little thought of advantage of nylon rodes is that typical sheet winches can generate a lot more power than any windlass or engine. I have dragged a 22,000 lb. 37-foot wooden sloop through the mud for a long distance using the main 3-speed self-tailing sheet winch in the cockpit. The boat was heeled right down and it wouldn't have budged with any windlass I've ever had, yet I was able to pull the boat into deep water using the sheet winch. I have occasionally taken the line from one cockpit winch to the next and with two people grinding on two winches you can generate enormous power. Just be sure everything is really well bolted down!

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Agree that long-range cruisers use chain. One little thought of advantage of nylon rodes is that typical sheet winches can generate a lot more power than any windlass or engine. I have dragged a 22,000 lb. 37-foot wooden sloop through the mud for a long distance using the main 3-speed self-tailing sheet winch in the cockpit. The boat was heeled right down and it wouldn't have budged with any windlass I've ever had, yet I was able to pull the boat into deep water using the sheet winch. I have occasionally taken the line from one cockpit winch to the next and with two people grinding on two winches you can generate enormous power. Just be sure everything is really well bolted down!

Quite so... but of course, one can do the same thing in emergencies by using a long line with a chain hook on the end. Have had to do this a few times when windlasses have died. Slow, but as you say, quite powerful.

Cheers,

Jim