All new chain or add on more.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by zeehag

i bought new.
kept old as secondary and use the newer chain as primary.
i have had 2 occasions in 5 yrs to use the old secondary chain-- both essentially emergent reasons.
two things i never dispose of are ropes--replaced lines-- and chain. i also keep old rig cables for locking bicycles and dinghies and kayaks

old chain is also able to be used as a kellet when affixed to the chain with a proper shackle and seizing wire.

This is essentially my answer. The question is the same as "do I rebuild the motor or replace it?" The answer is dependent on the age, the pattern of use, the money you have to spend, and one's tolerance for annoyance.

Like anything on boats, really.

I would repurpose chain still in good condition as chain leaders for rope-chain rodes for lunch hooks, kedge anchors, secondaries or sterns. I would also ask for a foot or two of sample chain to ensure it fits your old windlass well. Lastly, and in conjunction with the last point, I would investigate the higher grades of chain beyond BBB, such as G40, G43 and G70. If you are only an occasional anchorer, you may not need that strength, but if you find yourself with bar-tight catenary in local squalls, you may have different prorities. Good luck.

[KP44]

I think this depends upon the length of rode you are using. Don't use a connecting link to save a short length of chain.
Ground tackle is the most important system on your boat and needs to be done right.

And never anchor using a small anchor; a "lunch hook". Always use your main anchor. Then you will never worry all evening when you make a quick trip to shore and end up staying for dinner.

[crazyoldboatguy]

Originally Posted by onavegador

Had the same question but with 3/8. I connected a new 3/8 with a Kenter Shackle to the old chain being aware that the new chain is the same as the old one (not only diameter but also dimensions of the links) otherwise it does not fit the windlass gipsy and may block.

Could you please provide a link to a site that sells a 3/8" kenter link? The smallest I could find was 9/16". Thank you!

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by captstu

One difficulty with splicing a chain:

If you have an anchor swivel, you always know where your ground tackle will break.

I would say that used it be true, but maybe not anymore. Take a good, hard look at this guy, it is not small, but I do not think it is the weak link in my ground tackle, not even if I had grade 70 chain as I'm 5/16" but used the S2 swivel
http://www.mantusanchors.com/mantus-swivel/

[01kiwijohn]

I anchor about 90 to 105 times per year. I had 100 feet of 5/16" HT BBB chain and found that it was ok, but not quite enough to anchor in the typical 25 to 30 foot depths up here.
So, I consulted a "chain guy" and he advised to use a joining link, as are available in many marine stores, and just remember that it will be the "weakest link".
With my 14,000 lb disp. boat, it has been an adequate solution, over the past 5 years. I keep an eye on it, and the rope to chain splice, just the same.
The other solution he offered, get it to a proper chain shop and they will weld in a proper joining link; then it'll be just like new. Expensive, but good.

[AmericanVagrant]

Originally Posted by Hank Kivett

I have tried to find the "Acco" connector but West Marine nor Defender seem to carry it at least in a 5/16 size...anyone know where i can find that one....

Not sure if it's made by ACCO, but McMaster Carr has something comparable.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-rope-links/=164k4e4

Go to "Hammer-Close Connecting Links".

[Toys_with_time]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Irony splice. Feeds though most windlasses (vertical, anyway) like it's not even there. Just as strong as the chain.

The "just as strong as the chain part" has been debated before on C&SF and, given that only 2 strands are holding the load instead of 3, I tend to favour the reduced strength camp but it is the only way I can get the join to run through the windlass.

Have wondered about adding some Dyneema somehow into the splice as a back up but haven't thought that through yet.


TwT

[Nightsky]

Originally Posted by Toys_with_time

The "just as strong as the chain part" has been debated before on C&SF and, given that only 2 strands are holding the load instead of 3, I tend to favour the reduced strength camp but it is the only way I can get the join to run through the windlass.

Have wondered about adding some Dyneema somehow into the splice as a back up but haven't thought that through yet.


TwT

Have you seen this? All 3 strands of rope go through the chain link for max strenthI did this splice and it goes through the gypsy just fine while retrieving the anchor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nemz-_GID7M

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by captstu

... If you have an anchor swivel, you always know where your ground tackle will break. If you also splice the chain, you are never sure which of the two weak points will break first...

The Crosby G335 Missing Link for 3/8" chain has a WWL of 2750 Lbs, equivalent to G-30 3/8" Proof Coil chain.
➥ Crosby® 335 Galvanized "Missing Link" Replacement Links - The Crosby Group