All new chain or add on more.

[Hank Kivett]

I want to increase my anchor chain...and i want to know if i should scrap what i have and get all new or add a length to my existing. Now keep in mine i have a windless and my concern is will any connection device hang up the windless. My anchor chain is a 5/16".

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by Hank Kivett

I want to increase my anchor chain...and i want to know if i should scrap what i have and get all new or add a length to my existing. Now keep in mine i have a windless and my concern is will any connection device hang up the windless. My anchor chain is a 5/16".

i bought new.
kept old as secondary and use the newer chain as primary.
i have had 2 occasions in 5 yrs to use the old secondary chain-- both essentially emergent reasons.
two things i never dispose of are ropes--replaced lines-- and chain. i also keep old rig cables for locking bicycles and dinghies and kayaks

old chain is also able to be used as a kellet when affixed to the chain with a proper shackle and seizing wire.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Hank Kivett

I want to increase my anchor chain...and i want to know if i should scrap what i have and get all new or add a length to my existing. Now keep in mine i have a windless and my concern is will any connection device hang up the windless. My anchor chain is a 5/16".

How much do you have?

My though is that if you have less than 100', buy new. If you have more than 150' you don't really need more, because it is very unlikely that the rope portion will ever reach the bottom. In less than 25 feet you will anchor on all-chain + 30' snubber (7:1 scope), and in more than 25 feet (say 40'), 190' of rope + chain = 4.9:1 scope, which is all you need with that much chain out.

If the security of using a rope/chain mix, where the rope never reaches the bottom, bothers you, then you need all new because the security of the coupling will not satisfy.

[onavegador]

Had the same question but with 3/8. I connected a new 3/8 with a Kenter Shackle to the old chain being aware that the new chain is the same as the old one (not only diameter but also dimensions of the links) otherwise it does not fit the windlass gipsy and may block.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Perhaps an equally important question to ask in addition to this one (possibly in another thread?), is what do folks do in terms of retrieving ground tackle, when a juncture in the rode is reached? Be it 2 sections of chain joined together, or where the rope & chain meet in a mixed rode. Particularly when using a power windlass.
Also, I'd think that the answers to this will differ with the different windlass types; horizontal, & vertical. As it will based on experience, strength, ground tackle weight, etc.

[Jim Cate]

This subject has been debated on CF repeatedly, so a quick search will reveal many opinions. In general, they always divide into two camps: those w ho decry any means of joining, and those who have successfully used joiners.

Our personal experience has been to use high quality joiners, and have done so for years of full time anchoring. The joiners are as strong as regular chain, not as strong as the various "hi test" (G70 etc) varieties, and so would be a "weak link" in such rodes.

Highly respected cruiser Evans Starzinger uses them, but with a Dyneema lashing backup. The backup has never been required (joiner has never failed) so that method has not been tested in action.

The joiners are the same size and shape as the normal links, and feed through windlasses effortlessly.

There are fearful folks who resist their usage vehemently. Follow them if you wish.

Jim

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

This subject has been debated on CF repeatedly, so a quick search will reveal many opinions. In general, they always divide into two camps: those w ho decry any means of joining, and those who have successfully used joiners.

Our personal experience has been to use high quality joiners, and have done so for years of full time anchoring. The joiners are as strong as regular chain, not as strong as the various "hi test" (G70 etc) varieties, and so would be a "weak link" in such rodes.

Highly respected cruiser Evans Starzinger uses them, but with a Dyneema lashing backup. The backup has never been required (joiner has never failed) so that method has not been tested in action.

The joiners are the same size and shape as the normal links, and feed through windlasses effortlessly.

There are fearful folks who resist their usage vehemently. Follow them if you wish.

Jim

Hi Jim,

What is the type or brand of chain joiner you use? Recall some of the discussions and some types that were panned but don't recall which type passed muster.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Hi Jim,

What is the type or brand of chain joiner you use? Recall some of the discussions and some types that were panned but don't recall which type passed muster.

Skip, I bought some ACCO joiners before we left the states. These are the C shaped links with the pins that you peen over to hold the two halves together. I think that buying such items from any of the reputable chain manufacturers, or the lifting equipment folks like Crosby will provide useful service. I'd avoid the Chinese links offered in some chandleries like the plague!

There was a series of tests done on joining links a few years ago, and the report was linked in one or more of the previous discussions here on CF. The results showed agreement with the above, and also showed that the stainless steel ones were pretty good, but not as strong as the forged steel ones from good sources.

Jim

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Perhaps an equally important question to ask in addition to this one (possibly in another thread?), is what do folks do in terms of retrieving ground tackle, when a juncture in the rode is reached? Be it 2 sections of chain joined together, or where the rope & chain meet in a mixed rode. Particularly when using a power windlass.
Also, I'd think that the answers to this will differ with the different windlass types; horizontal, & vertical. As it will based on experience, strength, ground tackle weight, etc.

Irony splice. Feeds though most windlasses (vertical, anyway) like it's not even there. Just as strong as the chain.

[Hank Kivett]

I have tried to find the "Acco" connector but West Marine nor Defender seem to carry it at least in a 5/16 size...anyone know where i can find that one....

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Hank Kivett

I have tried to find the "Acco" connector but West Marine nor Defender seem to carry it at least in a 5/16 size...anyone know where i can find that one....

Link to the Acco/Peerless web site. https://www.peerlesschain.com/produc...necting-Links/

However, call Defender and, if they carry a brand but not a specific product from that brand, they will order it for you.

[seaman-lew]

I have 200 feet of new 3/8 for sale

[Matt Johnson]

Crosby Missing Link is the highest rated. Ws bought ours online for around $10 each.

Matt

[captstu]

One difficulty with splicing a chain:

If you have an anchor swivel, you always know where your ground tackle will break. If you also splice the chain, you are never sure which of the two weak points will break first.

Chain/rope splices are stronger than chain/chain splices and usually, if well done, will go easily through the windless. A chain/chain splice is a problem - so at least get enough of the new chain that it will usually go through the windless while the anchor is still on the bottom - and once the heavier lift starts, it will be an all chain flow.

[JOHNMARDALL]

A standard shackle will not pull through a chain gypsy and may not go down the chain pipe even if lifted around the gypsy (please don't, you really need your fingers). There are chain connectors that may pass muster, but a welded link, by a very skilled welder is probably the best chain connector, and I still wouldn't do it on my own boat.
As already suggested, if you have a rope-chain gypsy, adding an appropriately spliced length of rope (eight strand brait is best) is probably the best compromise, and all new chain is the best non-compromise.

Good luck

John Mardall
Vetus Maxwell Group