Anchor Chain Wash System

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by colemj

If it isn't far enough below the water line, it will suck the standing head water out of the drain and suck air.

With due respect to Bash, I agree with you about the bucket - I don't think he has seen real East coast mud (and your problem is small compared to those in the Chesapeake).

Mark

Our boat came with a saltwater washdown system installed, bib in the cockpit. At first we just led a garden hose forward to tbe bow to washdown the rode and anchor here in the Chesapeake.

Later, when we installed an electric windlass, we also pulled a water line forward, T-d that to the existing salkwater washdown lines, and installed a bib forward.

I've seen people use buckets around here -- for hours. Even with the hose, it often takes me 15-20 minutes to retrieve everything...

-Chris

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by defjef

I think electrical gear is better no left in the anchor locker... a wet salty place. NO NO NO.

I am moving the pump to a nice dry accessible location... and running wires.. easy and hoses easy

It shouldn't hard to waterproof, water will only come fom the top or side. Much easier than my vertical windlass motor anyway.

[Roy M]

For me, the problem of the washdown pump centered on the pump itself. It had to have high pressure (35-40 psi) AND high volume (>5gpm) to do the deed of actually cleaning chain and washing down the decks to get rid of bird poop, fish blood and the black dust that haooens to those of us near airports.

Centrifugal pumps, mounted below the waterline can crank out the volume, but they can't be pushed hard enough through a hose. Most diaphragm pumps can put out the pressure, but not the volume. Finding the sweet spot was a challenge. It turned out to be somewhat expensive, as well. Mine was a piggy-back Flojet unit mounted above a small accumulator tank. The switching on it allows both pumps to crank out the volume, while the pressure is maintained by the accumulator. When it got settled on a constant flow, one of the pumps would turn off to reduce the current flow. Sadly, I can't find this pump anywhere anymore. It seems as though it has been superceded by a larger pump unit (FloJet 02840100A Marine High Volume Water System with Accumulator (4.5+ GPM, 40-PSI, 12-Volt, ... - san diego electronics for sale - backpage.com).

These pumps consume a lot of power. That's why I went with a separate breaker, that is only turned on when the engine is running, same procedure I use for the anchor windlass.

[Eric M]

Our washdown pump is plummed off the sink drain with a simple T as others have mentioned and it workds fine with no sucking of air.

One comment on the proposed design is where will all the mud go? If I don't hose off the chain before it comes up and over the bow roller and try to hose it off on the bow sprit half the mud ends up on the deck rolling downstream with the water towards the scuppers that are 3/4 of the way to the back of our boat.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by colemj

If it isn't far enough below the water line, it will suck the standing head water out of the drain and suck air.

With due respect to Bash, I agree with you about the bucket - I don't think he has seen real East coast mud (and your problem is small compared to those in the Chesapeake).

Mark

Bash lived on the Chesapeake for thee years. Mud is mud.

[hgd137]

My arrangement of a chain wash down system has worked very well. See Passport 40 – S/V Grendel | Passport 40 – Sailing Vessel Grendel

[Vasco]

I have the standard washdown pump system. Not the most pressure in the world but you can't really cruise the East Coast without one. Sometimes you just have to take your time. In the Bahamas you might get away without one. I seldom have to use it there.

A friend installed a power washer ($100 like my washdown pump)down below in the bow and it works really good. Just runs it via the inverter.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Bash

Bash lived on the Chesapeake for thee years. Mud is mud.

Bash has much more patience than I do.

Mark

[SailFastTri]

Did the bucket thing many years. Washdown pumps rule.

[HopCar]

For those of you who are wealthy, stainless steel chain pretty much cleans it self on the way up.

[Finistere]

Originally Posted by Eric M

Our washdown pump is plummed off the sink drain with a simple T as others have mentioned and it workds fine with no sucking of air.

One comment on the proposed design is where will all the mud go? If I don't hose off the chain before it comes up and over the bow roller and try to hose it off on the bow sprit half the mud ends up on the deck rolling downstream with the water towards the scuppers that are 3/4 of the way to the back of our boat.

Build a V shaped mud dam on the bowsprit , made one about 3/4" high out of 1/2" starboard, bent into a V shape by heating the center an screwed it down. Mud and water run of the side of the bowsprit.

[Katiusha]

We did a similar setup on the old boat. Washdown pump with a T off the head intake and two hoses: to the bow and to the transom. Issues with the setup:

- colemj is correct - it will suck in the air. Not sure if it's an issue with how far below the waterline the pump is installed. On a new-ish Jeanneau bilge is not far enough apparently. It will also suck in the air when you're rocking in the swell/waves. The pump you choose should be able to deal with the air and not get stuck in the on mode on the air bubble like ours did (even when we removed the hose to the transom).

- Roy M is also correct. The pump should be strong enough to pull water through the intake hose and push it through the out hose with enough pressure. Ours wasn't so we ended up with a trickle at the bow. Also see above about air bubbles in the pump.

[Sandero]

Thanks for the comments... The system design is shaping up:

Jabsco 70psi 6 gal/min pump mounted under the bunk in the V berth 5 feet from seacock and another 8-10 feet to the flush deck quick connect fitting (Jabsco). Electrics to mains batts connected to windlass solenoid... powered when windless is switched online.

The strainer will be an inline strainer mounted in the head above the diverter.

The drilling starts in a few weeks when all the parts are on hand.

Y valve diverter above the 1" seacock for the head sink waste.