Anchor raised itself

[GrowleyMonster]

If you install the same switch for a couple of electric furlers and an autopilot you could just let the boat take you wherever it wants, and drop the spud at the new anchorage. If you go ashore, make sure you are back aboard when it is time for the boat to sail itself to the next port of call.

[SVTatia]

In some posts above, the windlass continued to operate even after the breaker was turned off. Can someone explain how can this happen? How can the windlass continue to operate if the power was cutoff? Thanks in advance.

[sailorxyz]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

Wire the anchor switches in series with engine start circuit.

Because I do not necessarily want to run the engine while useing the winch.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

In some posts above, the windlass continued to operate even after the breaker was turned off. Can someone explain how can this happen? How can the windlass continue to operate if the power was cutoff? Thanks in advance.

Maybe I should reword...

How could the windlass continue to operate electrically by raising the anchor when the power was cutoff?

[Disailor]

Windlass/winch remotes for offroad vehicles are available for less than $20 on Ebay/Amazon. Flawless operation for 4 years now.

[s/v Jedi]

[sailorxyz]

Originally Posted by Disailor

Windlass/winch remotes for offroad vehicles are available for less than $20 on Ebay/Amazon. Flawless operation for 4 years now.

Yes, I use one myself. Had it for around six years and indeed, no issues. Just works. Not waterproof but at that price, it's not an issue to replace.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Maybe I should reword...

How could the windlass continue to operate electrically by raising the anchor when the power was cutoff?

I'm guessing it's because there are TWO power circuits. One set of heavy cables directly from the battery to power side of the relay (AKA contactor) and a lower-capacity set of control cables from the switch(es) to the coil side of the relay.

It's possible to kill power to the switches, but still have the relay, or any cables between it and the battery, fail.

For safety, both circuits could/should be fused separately. But the point of this thread is that those fuses (or circuit breakers) should be accessible when needed, and preferably left off when not in use.

[SVTatia]

Thank you Tom.

Originally Posted by CaptTom

....
It's possible to kill power to the switches, but still have the relay, or any cables between it and the battery, fail.

For safety, both circuits could/should be fused separately. But the point of this thread is that those fuses (or circuit breakers) should be accessible when needed, and preferably left off when not in use.

That begs the question: Do we need the circuit breaker AND a power cut-off switch as suggested above? Wouldn't the circuit breaker make the power switch redundant?
I ask this because I am starting the wiring for my windlass.

[sailorxyz]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Thank you Tom.



That begs the question: Do we need the circuit breaker AND a power cut-off switch as suggested above? Wouldn't the circuit breaker make the power switch redundant?
I ask this because I am starting the wiring for my windlass.

Depends how you wire the circuit. If you take power from the feed to the winch to power your control circuit then yes, one breaker in the main circuit will do it and that is how I've done mine.



However if you take power from the board for your control circuit then you'd have to open or close both breakers as needed.


BTW you should still fuse the control circuit even if you take power from the winch feed.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Thank you Tom.



That begs the question: Do we need the circuit breaker AND a power cut-off switch as suggested above? Wouldn't the circuit breaker make the power switch redundant?
I ask this because I am starting the wiring for my windlass.

On mine the windlass has a circuit breaker in the heavy cable close to the main battery switch from which it is supplied. The control circuit also has a circuit breaker so should either side have a problem its breaker pops. Simple and works as designed to date, however this thread has opened my eyes to a potential problem so now the main circuit breaker will be switched off when not needed.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Dave_S

Never occurred to me why, but mine has a big circuit breaker beside the switch at the helm, I guess now it was put there for this reason by the PO. I'll start switching it.

Switch panel at the helm has a winch switch on ours, have started doing the same.

[Bycrick]

In my case, the funny Nilsson control box supplied the control voltage for the solenoid. The circuit breaker on the main panel was just used as a switch. When the control box shorted internally, the solenoid was held in by the main 12v. It isn’t that way anymore.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by sailorxyz

Depends how you wire the circuit. If you take power from the feed to the winch to power your control circuit then yes, one breaker in the main circuit will do it and that is how I've done mine.

However if you take power from the board for your control circuit then you'd have to open or close both breakers as needed.

BTW you should still fuse the control circuit even if you take power from the winch feed.

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

On mine the windlass has a circuit breaker in the heavy cable close to the main battery switch from which it is supplied. The control circuit also has a circuit breaker so should either side have a problem its breaker pops. Simple and works as designed to date, however this thread has opened my eyes to a potential problem so now the main circuit breaker will be switched off when not needed.

Got it. Power feed from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the solenoid. Shutting off the breaker cuts power to everything as per Maxwell diagram attached. Thank you all

[Marathon1150]

I have often debated with myself a to whether the windlass breaker should be on or off when at anchor. If we had to leave quickly, it would save potentially precious time to have it on. On the other hand, the OP's experience suggests that at least some of the time and as a result of the peculiar circumstances of weathered or otherwise no longer normal switches, it is a bad idea to have it on. Even though the frequency of this problem is probably very low, even one occurrence is indicative. Based on this incident, I'm going to keep the breaker off from now on. Thanks for posting.