Anchor raised itself

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hi Jim, I’m pretty sure your switches are control switches for a solenoid box like others have. You could add more switches but that multiplies the risk of-course.

There are windlass foot switches (Maxwell and Muir) that will handle the full current of moderate sized anchor windlasses.

If you are going to install foot switches, they are an alternative that is worth considering. You can still use a solenoid for a wireless control, but the foot switch acts as a backup in the case of solenoid failure (this is one of the most common windlass faults).

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

There are windlass foot switches (Maxwell and Muir) that will handle the full current of moderate sized anchor windlasses.

If you are going to install foot switches, they are an alternative that is worth considering. You can still use a solenoid for a wireless control, but the foot switch acts as a backup in the case of solenoid failure (this is one of the most common windlass faults).

Found them! I had not expected them to be as durable as you experienced so that’s good news

[CassidyNZ]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Found them! I had not expected them to be as durable as you experienced so that’s good news

Excellent. Now all I have to do is find them in NZ then make an appointment with the bank manager for a mortgage on my home

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

Excellent. Now all I have to do is find them in NZ then make an appointment with the bank manager for a mortgage on my home

Muir are Australian and sell the same/similar foot switches. They will probably be easier to obtain and perhaps cheaper in NZ than Maxwell.

You might still need a mortgage .

[Simi 60]

I removed the chance of water ingress and got rid of our maxwell foot switches and went with a wireless winch remote.

$20 for two and 3 years of faultless operation.
Cheap enough to carry complete spares.

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/3238549582...oaAn4AEALw_wcB

Leaning over the bulwarks to hose chain or attach snubber you could barely reach the foot switch anyway, now its not a problem.

[Oceansailor]

I have always left the windlass hot in case the boat would drag anchor.

But yes a malfunctioning deck switch could be a disaster so I decided to install a remote main switch just for the windlass.

Installed a remote main switch for the windlass that can be activated from the pedestal. Above the switch a sticker “Windlass activation”


I just tried to rescue a boat that draged. It was not easy as the windlass was off. Boat closed and no engine key. Not much you can do if you can not start the engine or lift the anchor.... Luckily the anchor reset after been dragging for 200-300 m in 30 knots of wind.

[SVTatia]

Hmmm...isn't Maxwell a NZ company?

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

Excellent. Now all I have to do is find them in NZ then make an appointment with the bank manager for a mortgage on my home [emoji3]

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hi Jim, I’m pretty sure your switches are control switches for a solenoid box like others have. You could add more switches but that multiplies the risk of-course.

Well, Nick, I'm damn sure that you are wrong! My system is breaker near the battery box, heavy wire to the foot switches, heavy wire to the motor. NO solenoid in sight.

Jim

[OldBawley]

Back when I was still working and living in our marina, some winter night I came back from the pub and heard a funny screaming noise. I was quite loaded, crawled on board and went to bed.
The screaming noise kept me awake and was really frightening so I dressed again and went for a look.
We had 650 berths back then, after a while I found the yacht making the noise. A 23 Metre sailing vessel, the noise was made by the anchor winch. The thing was turning, grinding the slip coupling.
With my head full of beer I could not find the keys to the yacht and realised I was not fit to stop the winch so I called the technical manager.
He eventually stopped the winch. If I had not been a liveaboard the yacht would probably have burned down. A problem with rain water into a solenoid I was later told.
My SL Seatiger won´t have that problem.

[CassidyNZ]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Hmmm...isn't Maxwell a NZ company?

I have absolutely no idea. Have never owned any form of Maxwell products.

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Well, Nick, I'm damn sure that you are wrong! My system is breaker near the battery box, heavy wire to the foot switches, heavy wire to the motor. NO solenoid in sight.

Jim

I have the same switch - up only on mine, clutch release to lower.

I have had a couple of surprises when I have accidentally stepped on it while trying to free off junk brought up on the anchor so maybe I'll add a solenoid and remote and leave the switch covered. Remote down would be handy when setting the snubber.

[boom23]

Wow! I was not aware that windlass foot switches can be such a problem... I'm glad that Amel refused to install them on my boat.

I currently have a wired control with chain counter at the cockpit and a wireless remote. Because I don't want to rely on batteries, I plan to install a handheld wired remote by the windlass.

Has anyone had problems with handheld wired remotes?

[Jim Cate]

Wow! I was not aware that windlass foot switches can be such a problem

But really, in most cases it wasn't the foot switches that were at fault. It was the fact that there are lots of spurious means of energizing the solenoid and hence the windlass.

Direct foot switches are pretty simple and failure free IME.

And the more means of activating the solenoid that you add, like remote access, wired or unwired, the more likely accidental activation will become.

This is a place where KISS is attractive.

Jim

[Panope]

For those that wish to keep the windlass circuits energized for emergency anchor handling, perhaps the windlass clutch could be disengaged (after the anchor rode is belayed/stopped/snubbed).

In that case, an inadvertently energized motor would turn freely, harming only the state of charge of the associated battery.

Steve

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Panope

For those that wish to keep the windlass circuits energized for emergency anchor handling, perhaps the windlass clutch could be disengaged (after the anchor rode is belayed/stopped/snubbed).

In that case, an inadvertently energized motor would turn freely, harming only the state of charge of the associated battery.

Steve

what a sensible suggestion, Steve! Good one IMO

Jim