Anchor Tips make a difference

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

Walking by our local chandlery, window I noticed a Lewmar copy of Bruce has ... BLUNT (sic!) tips - model 30kg (about 65 pounds).

Why they decided NOT to machine the edge is beyond me as Bruce is sort of flat wide tongue anyways and so making the edge sharp (esp in a 1/2 thick slab of metal) would seem to make all sense in the world.

Our original Bruce is sharp though.

Small details that got lost in Chinese translation?

b.

Or patent infringement if not Chinese.

[downunder]

Originally Posted by rognvald

Downunder,
I didn't get the impression that Jim Cate was campaigning for his choice of anchor or criticizing others choices but rather making the point that there are many ways to skin the proverbial cat. Mariners have progressed over the millennia from rock anchors to the latest techno-advances and all have proved useful within their own context. We still use a CQR, Danforth and Fortress quite successfully for our anchor choices but do not deny there are other anchors that are just as effective and perhaps better. I believe the most important aspects of anchoring are: choice of anchorage, nature of the seabed, sufficient scope, displacement, draft, keel configuration, windage of the vessel and sound anchoring techniques rather than any particular "miracle" anchor. We have learned over the years that in some conditions, dragging is inevitable but it should not be a common occurrence. However, the two times we dragged badly in 50-70 knot winds, I had incorrectly assessed the nature of the seabed and, in my opinion, had chosen the wrong anchor for the job. Fortunately, we were able to recover quickly and reset a more appropriate anchor which held throughout the worst of the storm. Good luck and safe sailing.

Absolutely agree that Jim's post was that as usual of balance and reason and he was not campaigning for a particular anchor type and I certainly was not referring to him.

[downunder]

If anchor tips make a difference lets be more inclusive and include a couple more of the new generation anchors

Manson Boss
Rocna Vulcan
Ultra
Sarca Excel

Certainly Anchoright the manufacturer seems to think so tips are important and has taken it to another level with the current version of the Excel.

The following taken from SARCA in Action - anchorright.com.au

"As a world first, the steel Excel version has a stainless steel cutting toe in combination with a steel fluke, this toe is not unlike the original Super Sarca toe in its shape, turned down giving instant penetration, it can be sharpened for weed or hard substrate types, being of stainless the cutting edges do not rust, all of the above makes the Excel possibly the deepest diving anchor on the market allowing incredible performance in heavy weed and many sea bed types."

[Viking Sailor]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

Walking by our local chandlery, window I noticed a Lewmar copy of Bruce has ... BLUNT (sic!) tips - model 30kg (about 65 pounds).

Why they decided NOT to machine the edge is beyond me as Bruce is sort of flat wide tongue anyways and so making the edge sharp (esp in a 1/2 thick slab of metal) would seem to make all sense in the world.

Our original Bruce is sharp though.

Small details that got lost in Chinese translation?

b.

Originally Posted by Cadence

Or patent infringement if not Chinese.

Or, that there are only two factors that can insure safe anchoring -- one is anchor weight and the other is standing an anchor watch.

Otherwise, being at anchor is just another mode of being underway. The design and mass of an anchor only defines the conditions in which you lose control of your vessel. (like the size and power of a vessel.)

Anchoring is defined in the COLREG's the same as being under power or under sail with both day and night signals. (excluding designated anchorages.)

My advice is to get the heaviest anchor (over 50lbs) that you can handle and afford. Also, for chafe, go with an all chain rode.

BTW: Every large vessel I have served on always set an anchor watch.

[motion30]

Originally Posted by Viking Sailor

Or, that there are only two factors that can insure safe anchoring -- one is anchor weight and the other is standing an anchor watch.

Otherwise, being at anchor is just another mode of being underway. The design and mass of an anchor only defines the conditions in which you lose control of your vessel. (like the size and power of a vessel.)

Anchoring is defined in the COLREG's the same as being under power or under sail with both day and night signals. (excluding designated anchorages.)

My advice is to get the heaviest anchor (over 50lbs) that you can handle and afford. Also, for chafe, go with an all chain rode.

BTW: Every large vessel I have served on always set an anchor watch.

I respectfully have to disagree with you. First off if one is on the boat alone setting up an anchor watch is impossible. Secondly it sounds as if you have never used a new generation actor. Dragging is not inevitable

[Viking Sailor]

Originally Posted by motion30

I respectfully have to disagree with you. First off if one is on the boat alone setting up an anchor watch is impossible. Secondly it sounds as if you have never used a new generation actor. Dragging is not inevitable

Sir, I respect that you disagree with me.

However, I have lived and cruised for over 30 of the 39 years I have owned my boat. I have been living aboard in San Francisco bay for the last 18 years. In those years aboard I have learned to stand a night watch when conditions warrant it. Even here in the marina I stand a watch at night if the winds are forecast to be high. If the winds are over 30 kts I will walk the docks every hour or two. I have retied boats, moved fenders, and lashed down loose gear.

I am sure that you would not consider a Bruce as being a new generation anchor. However, back in 1978 it was consider a break through in anchoring technology. So I outfitted the boat with a crisp new 20 kg Bruce. It worked OK. Found a few hard bottoms that it would take more then one try to get it to set. Also, up in the Delta found a couple of spots where the bottom seemed more like soup the anything else. Then on a trip to Mexico it became clear to me that what I needed was a bigger anchor. So, back up to San Diego to get a 30 kg Bruce. What a difference that made! Those 10 kgs (22 lbs) made all the difference in the world! The anchor set every time and held great.

As an example of how much difference that 30 kg Bruce made -- within a week of returning to the San Francisco bay -- I come home to find that my wife of 19 years has sold the Bruce right off the bow of the boat! It took me awhile (seconds) to figure out that we weren't going to be doing any long distance cruising again anytime soon. She was a very clever Spanish Lady!!!

p.s. Recently I got another 30 kg Bruce...

[hzcruiser]

Originally Posted by downunder

Its amazing the lengths people will go to validate their own particular choice of anchor and rubbish others.

Come on mate, we haven't had a "proper" anchor thread in weeks!

In order to stay half way on topic, may I add that I replaced my knock-off 65lb CQR with a genuine 60 lb Mantus last year?

So far I'm pretty happy with it, but I certainly didn't take the Mantus through its paces yet, due to the lack of nights at anchor recently.

[bvander]

The Mantus is stomger in the Northern Hemisphere as the coriolis effect works on the bolts and helps keep them tiight. Habent ssen hard data on this but think I saw it on a video somewhere on the internet.

[Training Wheels]

That's why you use bolts with left hand threads in the Southern Hemisphere.

[bvander]

Originally Posted by Training Wheels

That's why you use bolts with left hand threads in the Southern Hemisphere.

Absolutely, gets tricky though at Equator and the poles, probably have to rely on lock tight when cruising there.

[Training Wheels]

Equator doesn't matter. no Coriolis effect. At the poles, though, the nuts will spin right off if your not using the proper thread.

[zboss]

Originally Posted by bvander

If your coming into a tight anchorage means its full, good seamanship perscribes going elsewhere.
Drop a hook in a marina while going forward, if you had the time, would cause you to rapidly swing about in a 180 degrees with no control, better to try to maintain direction and fend off with fenders until you get a line on a piling.

That's just not possible in many locations, especially the ICW in Florida where the anchorages are few, far between, and often skinny side-to-side. We often must sit on a 3:1 and/or put a stern anchor out because there is simply no where else to go.

Find an anchor that works for you and stick with it.

[drjjlloyd]

Jim,

Thank you. Starting my Caribbean sabbatical in the fall of 2018, and it's great to get the benefit of your long experience. That's why I love cruisers forum

[bvander]

Originally Posted by zboss

That's just not possible in many locations, especially the ICW in Florida where the anchorages are few, far between, and often skinny side-to-side. We often must sit on a 3:1 and/or put a stern anchor out because there is simply no where else to go.

Find an anchor that works for you and stick with it.

Have done ditch 7 times, never had to do short scope, plan ahead, have alternates and stop early.

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by Training Wheels

Equator doesn't matter. no Coriolis effect. At the poles, though, the nuts will spin right off if your not using the proper thread.

Or, just make you have a German crew member to set the anchor.
When they drop the anchor they will say in a very aggressive voice,

"YOU VILL STICK !!"