Bow anchor box design 42 ft sail yacht

[bobmcd625]

Nice drawing, Jonas, and beautiful boat...
I am also studying the best way to add a windlass to my DownEaster 38 so have a few thoughts, as follows:
1. New Deck Hatch? I would have concerns about structural integrity and water tightness with cutting a large opening in the deck. Perhaps a manufactured hatch (Lewmar or similar) would be the best bet as it has an integral strong frame. Reinforcements under the deck would certainly be needed.
2. Why have the chain box off to one side? Would think it should be centered.
3. Water line when boat is healed may make self draining problematic. Bilge pump in anchor well is good idea, but where will discharge go?
Just my 2 cents! Lykke til!

[jonasaberg]

Originally Posted by bobmcd625

1. New Deck Hatch? I would have concerns about structural integrity and water tightness with cutting a large opening in the deck. Perhaps a manufactured hatch (Lewmar or similar) would be the best bet as it has an integral strong frame. Reinforcements under the deck would certainly be needed.

Thanks for your comments!
The space is very tight so the only option is a custom made hatch. I am not worried about structural integrity, there is a bulkhead just aft of the hatch, and I will make reinforcements just by adding the anchor box.

2. Why have the chain box off to one side? Would think it should be centered.

Again, it is because the space is tight, and I want to restrict the amount of water that can be trapped in a waterfilled anchorbox.
But I agree that it is not ideal, however, this is far in front so the healing moment is relatively small. I am more concerned in general by putting chain in the front at all...

3. Water line when boat is healed may make self draining problematic. Bilge pump in anchor well is good idea, but where will discharge go?
Just my 2 cents! Lykke til!

I have put of the bilge pump idea for the time beeing. But if so, I would just pump it out through the side of the boat as far up as posible.

[bobmcd625]

Originally Posted by jonasaberg

Thanks for your comments!
I am not worried about structural integrity,

My concern would be mainly for water tightness of new hatch.
Looking for the Wasa 410 found the images below. Looks pretty much like what you want to do.
As to bilge pump you could use manual pump whenever needed.

[jonasaberg]

I made a full scale model to test my idea of an off centre mount and a narrow tall small volume chain box.
https://youtu.be/TCcfIoawP0U

I will make a hatch in the deck just on the port side of the winch, probably lower the floor to the left of the chain box to utilice a bit more of the volume for storage. The port side space will be dry. The motor will be parted of in a dry compartment, either accessible from the dry port bow compartment or from the sleeping bunk through the bulkhead.

Comments and.suggestions are appreciated.

[jonasaberg]

Originally Posted by bobmcd625

My concern would be mainly for water tightness of new hatch.
Looking for the Wasa 410 found the images below. Looks pretty much like what you want to do.
As to bilge pump you could use manual pump whenever needed.

Nice! Thanks. So they let the chain slide down the side of the hull. I did not dare to try that. I thought the chain needed a foot of free fall below the deck. Also the Anchorlift motor prefered mount is as in my video, so need a bit of distance from.the rail.

[jonasaberg]

Originally Posted by bobmcd625

My concern would be mainly for water tightness of new hatch.
Looking for the Wasa 410 found the images below. Looks pretty much like what you want to do.
As to bilge pump you could use manual pump whenever needed.

Nice! Thanks. So they let the chain slide down the side of the hull. I did not dare to try that. I thought the chain needed a foot of free fall below the deck. Also the Anchorlift motor prefered mount is as in my video, so need a bit of distance from.the rail.

[bobmcd625]

Originally Posted by jonasaberg

I thought the chain needed a foot of free fall below the deck. Also the Anchorlift motor prefered mount is as in my video, so need a bit of distance from.the rail.

Nice mock-up, nice video. You are right about the fee fall. I have read that vertical windlasses need 18" drop. The motor for the Dolphin can, however be oriented in any of the 4 main axes. Looks like you have a viable design. Post some photos (and videos) when it's all done!
Fair winds.

[bobmcd625]

Hey Jonas. Curious to know if you have proceeded to install the Dolphin windlass. If so, how is it working? Did you know that there is a Wasa 55 from Norway now racing in the Transpac from LA to Hawaii? Name is "Cubaneren". Long and thin like a cuban cigar!
Skål!

[JPA Cate]

Hi, Jonas,

I don't know if you have ever seen hatch dams. Basically they are a height-of-the-hatch bit that surrounds the forward end and two sides of a hatch, with side drains for water to escape, that protects the hatch lid from the seas. My suggestion is to incorporate that concept, they really help the water stay out.

As to anchor locker drains, ours are about 2 ft. above the water line, and only about 10 mm diameter.

However you build it, make sure that it is easy to access and dismantle it all. We've just had to take out ours, and it was very difficult, having been installed by someone stronger and with longer arms.

Good luck with the project.

Ann